AskGene.com

0 responses so far ↓

• Jo Ann // May 15, 2007 at 3:26 pm

  I did what you said as far as disconnecting the vent from the dryer but the clothes were still not completely dried. Is it time to replace the dryer or do you have another idea of what could be keeping it from drying completely. Thanks

• Gene // May 15, 2007 at 8:57 pm

  Jo Ann
  The clogged up vent is one of the most common problems but besides that, there could be a few more things prolonging the drying time. In order to figure out what is going on wrong with your dryer, I need more information from you. And replacing the dryer is the last thing you would want to do because more than often, it ends up being a lot cheaper to fix it. Here are my questions:
  1) What make and model is your dryer? (the model number is located on the door frame)
  2) Is it warm or cold inside the dryer right after the cycle is done?
  3) What cycle did you use when you noticed the problem?
  4) Did you hear any unusual sounds coming from the dryer?
  5) How good was the air pressure blowing out of the dryer?

• Durwin Sharp // May 28, 2007 at 5:41 pm

  I have a Whirlpool LGN2000JQ0 gas dryer. It starts and runs normally (heat, tumble, etc.) for the first short while, but when the flame cycles off it stays off. After this first time, the igniter cycles on – glows red/orange and draws about 3.2 amps (I understand that a simple continuity test isn’t sufficient but that a current test should be between 3-4 amps). The solenoid coils are energized. The main coil seems to be energized all the time and the auxiliary coil is energized when the igniter is on – a screwdriver held near the top of the coils vibrates.

  Is there something wrong with the way I’m thinking about how this works? If I put all of this together, it seems as though all of the safety/sensor components are working (fusible link, over temperature sensor, timer, temperature controller) so all I am left with is a weak solenoid coil or a sticking gas valve. I don’t see how a coil could weaken – a bad internal connection or short would more likely burn it out. So I seem to be left with a sticking gas valve.

  The one confusing part – hopefully more information for you – is that, although intermittent, it seems to be intermittent in a repeatable way. After the dryer has sat idle for 30-45 minutes, it fires up when started. It’s only after it warms up and gets into its temperature control cycle (it seems to be after the first cycle) that the igniter cycles and the solenoids buzz, but the gas does not come on.

  I’ve posted this problem several places and will be calling my local appliance store tomorrow. Wherever I get the best answer is likely where I will order the parts.

  Thanks in advance for your advice.
  Durwin Sharp

• Gene // May 28, 2007 at 7:11 pm

  Hello Durwin
  If the igniter cycles on and off then most likely (95%) the problem with your dryer is bad gas valve coils and only 5% chance is sticking gas valve. Moneywise is much better to replace the gas valve coils first($16.18 – part number 279834) compare to the gas valve assembly ($109.84 – part number 279923). If the igniter stays on all the time, then the problem is welded terminals inside the flame sensor. In that case the flame sensor has to be replaced ($27.78 – part number 338906). Based on my experience replacing the gas valve coils will solve the problem.
  Good luck. Thanks for stopping by. Please, keep me updated.
  Gene.

• Durwin Sharp // May 30, 2007 at 1:26 pm

  Gene,
  Thanks for your comments – they were right on track. Unfortunately, since we had been without a dryer over the long weekend (our household does 12-15 loads of laundry each week) we were desperate for a working dryer. When I got the same advice from our local parts dealer, I bought the coils from them, installed them, and the dryer now works. BUT I have not forgotten your timely advice so will bookmark your site and be back to you with other questions and parts requests.

  Now that I think of it, we have a Dacor W305 “convection plus” wall oven. The oven works as well as it is designed to work (I would NEVER buy another, but that’s a different story) except as it relates to setting time and temperature. The controller has a knob that you turn to dial the digital indicator up and down – but it is highly erratic. One click up can change set temperature up (or down) by hundreds of degrees, or only 5. My wife goes nuts every time she has to reset temperature and even I find it quite annoying, although some persistence will eventually result in “happening upon” the right temperature. I suspect that the only solution is to replace the entire controller (and given the overpriced nature of the oven, I’m sure it’s ridiculously expensive), but your thoughts and perhaps a price on the replacement controller would be appreciated. Since we’ve lived with this turkey for many years, the urgency for replacement isn’t what it was for the dryer.

  Thanks again for your advice,
  Durwin

• floyd // Jun 1, 2007 at 12:18 am

  could not get past step 2. where are the 2 screw?

• Gene // Jun 1, 2007 at 1:46 am

  floyd
  Depend on the model of the washer screws could be: 1) in the front of the console; 2) in the back of the console or 3) behind the end caps
  Good luck,
  Gene

• Gene // Jun 1, 2007 at 2:55 am

  Hi Durwin,
  It does not matter were you bought the part. My main goal is to help people and I’m glad to hear from you that my advice was right.
  About your oven: sounds like the problem is bad control board. You were absolutely right – it is very expensive, especially because the new control board is a retrofit kit. It comes with a new, redesigned glass panel and completely different control board. Also, it comes with complete installation instructions and I believe it’s not going to be a complicated job for you. Because you did not mentioned the color of your oven I will give part numbers and prices for both white and black. The part number for the white kit is 86600W and you can buy for $ 478.93 here: http://click.linksynergy.com/fs-bin/click?id=SrmyP8LkIos&offerid=122738.579804753&type=10&subid=
  The part number for the black kit is 86600B and you can buy it for         $ 401.54 here: http://click.linksynergy.com/fs-bin/click?id=SrmyP8LkIos&offerid=122738.579804757&type=10&subid
  Thanks for stopping by. I’m always ready to help.

  Gene

• Justin // Jun 2, 2007 at 2:39 am

  great directions. screws are in the front on mine. also have to disconnect the three hoses before sliding the cabinet off.

• IndianaBob // Jun 3, 2007 at 3:18 pm

  What are you calling the console? If it’s the control panel on top, I have no Phillips screws on mine.

• Gene // Jun 4, 2007 at 8:00 pm

  Bob
  The console and the control panel are the same. If you have a Whirlpool or Kenmore (with 110 prefix in the model number) direct drive washer then to locate the screws read the comment addressed to Floyd http://tinyurl.com/3ysrv8
  If it is a different make or model, then I need the complete information from you.
  Thanks for stopping by. Keep me updated.
  Gene.

• Mick // Jul 30, 2007 at 7:37 am

  Gene
  To save time and a lot of mucking around just pull the machine out from the wall about 2 feet and prop up with suitable object and work from underneath to replace coupling.
  iv’e done this plenty of times on our machine as I’m replacing the dam thing. about every 12 Mths. Even tried the heavy duty coupling.

• Harold // Aug 16, 2007 at 12:43 pm

  Hello Sir,
  I have a Whirlpool model LGN2000JQ0 with a heating problem. It runs perfectly but the heating cycle lasts for about 20 sec then shuts off ; not allowing it to heat up enough to dry the clothes. Please help !!

• Tim // Aug 16, 2007 at 8:58 pm

  I saw on another forum you gave someone help changing the fuse in an old maytag washer. I changed my fuse a couple of weeks ago for the first time ever and it blew again yesterday. Do you have any suggestions as to what may be causing the fuse to blow (approx 14 years old) I love these old maytags and really do not want a new washer b/c I do not think they make them like they used to.

• Gene // Aug 17, 2007 at 3:14 am

  Hello Harold,

  Most likely the problem with your dryer is insufficient air flow due to clogged up vent and/or blower wheel. More specific information about such problem and how to diagnose and solve it you can find here: http://www.askgene.com/2007/03/15/clothes-dryer/what-to-do-if-clothes-still-dump-after-the-cycle-is-done/

  Thanks for stopping by. Please, keep me updated.
  Gene.

• Gene // Aug 17, 2007 at 4:06 am

  Hello Tim,

  After you open the control panel you’ll see the bracket with the fuse (#19 on the break down diagram), the check switch (#5 on the break down diagram) and the lid switch (#16 on the break down diagram). Also you’ll see the unbalance lever assembly (#31 on the break down diagram).
  Most likely the problem with your washer caused by bad switches and/or not adjusted properly (might be broken) unbalanced lever assembly. Unfortunately I’m not able to tell you exactly which part is bad without seeing the washer.

  – Here are the break down diagram: http://tinyurl.com/2jlzyp

  Thanks for stoping by. Pleae, keep me updated.
  Good luck.
  Gene.

• Sandro // Aug 26, 2007 at 12:48 pm

  Hello Gene,

  I have a whirlpool washer model LXR7244JQO
  I need to replace the motor coupling (for direct drive washer) Part number ap3963893 any tips on how to get started.

• Gene // Aug 27, 2007 at 12:59 pm

  Hello Sandro,

  You can find the complete instructions here: http://www.askgene.com/2007/02/07/whirlpool-kenmore-washer-direct-drive/how-to-replace-the-motor-drive-coupling-on-whirlpool-direct-drive-washer/

  Thanks for stopping by.
  Please, keep me updated.
  Good luck.
  Gene.

• steve // Sep 2, 2007 at 3:53 pm

  This is perfect. Thank you. It took about 10 minutes of searching to find askgene.com. Simple query in the search box and my exact description showed up in the form of a question. Step by step directions this is the perfect match to what I saw, down to the socket size clip spin. The link to the exact part is an exact match. Total time to diagnose and get to the broken part about 30 minutes.

• carlo // Sep 14, 2007 at 7:10 pm

  i need to rplace a lid switch on my washer machine the model is 1101321200 kenmore

• Gene // Sep 20, 2007 at 5:22 pm

  Hello Carlo,

  To get the access to the lid switch you have to remove the cabinet: http://www.askgene.com/2007/01/26/whirlpool-kenmore-washer-direct-drive/how-to-remove-the-cabinet-on-whirlpool-direct-drive-washer-2/

  The new lid switch you can buy here: http://click.linksynergy.com/fs-bin/click?id=SrmyP8LkIos&offerid=122738.611763731&type=10&subid=

  Please, keep me updated.
  Good luck.
  Gene.

• Jim // Feb 15, 2008 at 10:03 pm

  Gene,
  Very informative site. I have a question regarding the defrost cycle (non electronic device) When the refrigerator cycles to defrost, should the defrost heating element stay on the entire time, or does the defrost thermostat regulate the amount of current the heating element receives based on the temperature of the defrost thermostat?

  Thanks

  Jim

• Dan // Feb 18, 2008 at 4:44 pm

  Gene,
  I have a Bosch dishwasher that will fill and drain but will not wash. After it fills it is quiet until the time passes in the wash cycle and then it drains and refills for the next wash cycle. Is this the control panel or the motor? The motor does not make any noise during the wash cycle.
  Thanks for your help.

• mike // Feb 18, 2008 at 11:58 pm

  if flame sensor reads cont., should’nt that change when flashlight is shined onto it?

• Gene // Feb 19, 2008 at 5:43 am

  Hi Mike,

  No, it should not because the flame sensor sensing the temperature, not the light.

  As soon as it heats up to the proper temperature the circuit through the flame sensor opens and the current redirects in a different way.

  Thanks for stopping by. I’m always ready to help.

  Gene.

• Gene // Feb 19, 2008 at 5:51 am

  Hi Dan,

  Most likely the problem caused by the motor and pump assembly.

  In order to provide more accurate advise I need the complete model number of the dishwasher. You can find it on the right side of the door.

  Gene.

• Gene // Mar 16, 2008 at 11:37 pm

  Hi Dan,

  Remove the bottom panel and listen to the circulation pump motor while the control calls for wash.

  If it makes a humming noise then the motor should be good and you can repair the old pump, using the repair kit.

  If it does not make any noises then check for 120VAC coming to the motor.

  If there is 120VAC then the motor is bad and the whole circulation pump assembly has to be replaced.

  If there is no 120VAC then you have to check the motor wire harness and, if there is nothing wrong, replace the control module.

  – The circulation pump repair kit you can buy here: http://tinyurl.com/2pf3hh

  – The circulation pump assembly you can buy here: http://tinyurl.com/3ahecn

  – The control module you can buy here: http://tinyurl.com/2ltgkn

  Here are the break down diagrams for the Bosch dishwasher model SHU3302UC: http://tinyurl.com/327xx3

  Let me know if you will need a further assistance.

  Good luck.
  Gene.

• Steven Chase Spurgeon // May 12, 2008 at 9:33 pm

  I’ve got a Kenmore gas dryer that is making me crazy. It fires intermittently and works fine for a few minutes, then shuts down. I have yet to check the fuse, but will do so when I get back to it in the morning. Any ideas of what’s going on? I’d sure love to save some time and money.

• Gene // May 12, 2008 at 10:58 pm

  Hi Steven,

  The problem with your dryer is a bad gas valve coil. No doubt about it. It has nothing to do with the thermal fuse, because if the fuse is blown the dryer would not fire at all.

  Replacing the coil should solve the problem. The part number for the gas valve coil kit is 279834.

  Thanks for stopping by. Please, keep me posted.

  Gene.

• Steven Chase Spurgeon // May 13, 2008 at 8:23 pm

  Gene:

  Your diagnostic skills are amazing. I replaced the gas valve coils and the dryer fired right up and is performing perfectly.

  I regret I didn’t have time to get a part from you, but will bookmark your site and will happily do business with you when the next need arises.

  You are a good man and I’m proud to know you.

  Steven

• Gene // May 13, 2008 at 11:02 pm

  Steven,

  I’m glad you were able to fix it.

  I’m always ready to help.
  Gene.

• Danull // Jun 19, 2008 at 11:21 pm

  Gene,

  I want to say thank you for this article.

  I had a really bad water leak coming from my Kenmore 80 Series (110.26882500). Thought I was out a few hundred bucks and a few weeks waiting for somebody to repair it, easy. You inspired me to try it myself and encouraged my belief that based on the drip in the front/middle it was probably the water pump (when I tipped it backward I noticed the retainer was slightly wet, that helped).

  Went out and purchased the water pump part at a parts store today and went through your instructions here. Anyhow the only way I deviated from your plan is that rather than take off the Cabinet (unfortunately I could not figure out how with the instructions on your other page…couldn’t find the screws and I have no idea what or where an end cap is), I just did all the work with the washer leaned back/propped (as Mick had suggested below).

  Just fired the thing up and no water leak.

  I really appreciate the help. Thank you very much!

  -Danull

• Scott // Jul 22, 2008 at 11:45 pm

  Gene,

  My dryer will go through a few cycles of the ignitor comming on and then a flame (roughly 10 to 15 min) before all I get is the glow of the ignitor. If I am reading the above advise correctly it sounds like the coils, is that correct?

  What I don’t understand is why they work for a few cycles then stop?

  Scott

• Gene // Jul 23, 2008 at 1:17 am

  Hi Scott,

  You are absolutely right, the problem with your dryer are a bad coils. They work as long as they are cold.

  Replacing the coils should solve the problem. The part number for the gas valve coil kit is 279834.

  Thanks for stopping by. Please, keep me posted.
  Gene.

• Scott // Jul 23, 2008 at 1:19 pm

  Gene,

  That did the trick! At least I am assuming it did, I am now 1/2 hour into the cycle and it is still getting a flame!

  However another issue seems to have worsen. about 6 months after we got the dryer, we had to start proping my Workmate up against the door to keep it running. I was working at Sears at the time so I asked the repair guy and he said “There isn’t really anything that I can do, becuase the door opens down any type of pressure on it takes it out of alignment”. Well after doing this repair, I have had to re-prop a few times. It may be becuase the dryer is not back to it’s normal location so it may not be level, but was he correct? Can this issue not be fixed?

  Scott

• Gene // Jul 23, 2008 at 7:53 pm

  Scott,

  I’m glad to hear you are back in business.

  Regarding the door problem it could be a bad door latch or the door itself is bend and/or out of alignment. When you close the door, the door latch should make a clicking sound and the door should stay firmly closed.

  Gene.

• Jim // Aug 5, 2008 at 4:52 am

  Gene, I am in Orange County as well. Our Microwave gave an “f3” error and my online research shows it is a touch pad issue. I was considering ordering the touch pad and attempting to install myself. I am so-so at do it yourself repairs. do you think this is a good idea and is it doable by an amateur? thanks, Jim

• Gene // Aug 5, 2008 at 5:32 am

  Hi Jim,

  You were right, the problem is a stuck pad(s) on the key panel. This part is not too difficult to replace yourself.
  For more accurate advise I need the complete model number of the microwave.

  Thanks for stopping by.
  Gene.

• Lori Lee // Sep 23, 2008 at 12:56 pm

  Hi Gene,
  I have read some responses of yours on an appliance forum and you are a big help to many people! I need some help with my whirlpool washer. I have a top loading lsr8010pt0 model that leaves clothes saturated after the cycle is complete. you can see the fabric softner still in the “hole” in middle of tub, as it is not spinning out. i dont know if it’s not spinning and just draining water, or if it is spinning but not enough. i have done the troubleshooting steps on the whirlpool website and nothing works. right now i have a washer full of sopping wet clothes! on one of your posts you gave some instructions for checking to see if it was spinning and checking some parts but as i tried to open the links they weren’t there. could you please tell me what could be the problem and how i might fix it without the cost of a service man? i live in indiana.

  thanks Gene!

• Gene // Sep 23, 2008 at 5:55 pm

  Hi Lori,

  The first thing I would do is pull up the Fabric Softener Dispenser and thoroughly clean it.

  Use just a little bit of the fabric softener and decrease amount of the detergent.

  Run the washer without clothes and soap, using a highest water level, to clean out all suds.

  If it would not help then remove the washer cabinet and perform troubleshooting. You can find the disassembly instructions in the article http://www.askgene.com/2007/01/26/whirlpool-kenmore-washer-direct-drive/how-to-remove-the-cabinet-on-whirlpool-direct-drive-washer-2/ on this site.

  Let me know if you’ll need a further assistance.

  Good luck.
  Gene.

• Frank // Sep 23, 2008 at 10:12 pm

  Hi Gene,
  I read your advice over another forum re. stove sparks continuously. I have a Viking 24″ single wok range top that sparks non-stop as long as it is plug in. The spark module used is the same as Whirlpool 4454392 (Viking PA020020). Wondering how would one determine whether the module or the ignitor (or both) is faulty? Also, this module could be used for 4 burner type, would it make any different if I switch the output wire to a different terminal from the module? Last question, in the auto re-ignite system, how does the module know if the gas is lighted or not (it re-ignites when if the fire is blown off and the valve is on)?
  Many Thanks,
  Frank
  BC, Canada

• Gene // Sep 24, 2008 at 12:47 am

  Hi Frank,

  You can switch the output wire to a different terminal only together with the associated input wire. Both these wires must be connected to the input and output terminals, marked with the same numbers or symbols. Any not used output terminals should be grounded.

  You can learn how the re-ignition system works from one of my previous posts on Appliance Parts Pros Forum  

  If you need a new spark module, you can buy it here: 4454392

  Thanks for stopping by.
  Gene.

• Greg // Oct 9, 2008 at 2:33 am

  Thank you very much…you’ve saved me a service call that would have cost 5 times as much I’m sure.

  Didn’t even need to take off the console…flipped it on its’ side and did all the work from underneath.

  Thanks again,
  -Greg

• Vinny // Oct 13, 2008 at 4:11 am

  Gene,
  I have replaced the igniter, flame sensor, and gas valve coils, and the dryer still does not heat. i am running out of ideas what do more can i do to fix my issue?

  Vinny

• Gene // Oct 13, 2008 at 8:34 pm

  Hi Vinny,

  Most likely the problem is a bad thermal fuse. For more accurate advise and part numbers I need the complete model number of the dryer.

  Thanks for stopping by.
  Gene.

• Carol // Oct 23, 2008 at 8:17 pm

  ARGH!!! I can’t find the screws to remove the console! I think I must need to remove the endcaps….but….can’t figure out how to get them off either ! Help! I am SO Frustrated!

  Whirlpool Model: LSB6000PQ0

• Gene // Oct 23, 2008 at 8:42 pm

  Hi Carol,

  Depend on the model of the washer these screws could be: in the back of the end caps, behind the end caps or in the front of the control panel.

  In your washer they are in the back of the end caps (#49 on the diagram).

  http://click.linksynergy.com/fs-bin/click?id=SrmyP8LkIos&offerid=122738.700320741&type=10&subid=

  Thanks for stopping by. Keep me updated.
  Gene.

• Shawn Seager // Dec 2, 2008 at 6:50 pm

  Gene, you are a Genius! Thank you for this free post, it saved my thanksgiving dinner! I had ordered a ECM and touch panel, got to this same problem with the extra wire with bad install instruction, Wednesday last week just hours before the bird was to go in. Thankfully I found your post below that saved our holiday dinner.

  Wishing you and your family happiness this holiday season, Shawn – Sake Lake City, Utah.

  01-17-2008, 03:05 PM

  Senior Expert
  Forum.AppliancePartsPros.com Volunteer

  Join Date: Jul 2007
  Location: Orange County, California

  I believe the black wire you are talking about (labeled B-12) and originally connected to the “C” terminal on the old control board is in L1 circuit and should be connected to either COM0 or COM1 terminals on the new control board.

  It suppose to be 4 black wires, providing L1 power.

  They should be connected to: the COM terminal on the BROIL1 relay, the COM terminal on the BROIL2 relay, the COM0 terminal on the right side and the COM1 terminal at the same place.

  Check all these wires for continuity across each other.

  Gene.
  __________________
  Professional appliance repair in Orange County, California.
  Old 01-17-2008, 04:11 PM
  zambojmc
  Junior Member

  Join Date: Jan 2008
  Posts: 2
  zambojmc is on a distinguished road
  Thumbs up Thanks …
  I was hoping that would be the case, and greatly appreciate your help.

  At the cost of those control boards, you sure don’t want to fry one.

  My wife thanks you, also! The best of luck to you and yours.

  zambojmc

• Gene // Dec 2, 2008 at 8:26 pm

  You are always welcome, Shawn.
  Nice Holidays to you and your family.

  Thanks for stopping by.
  Gene.

• John // Jan 17, 2009 at 7:51 pm

  Gene, you saved my family about $200 and the pain of having to hand-wash a ton of dishes. Your advice on the control module solder issue with our Bosch dishwasher was dead on! A little board-scratching and some new solder did the trick. I found your advice in some repair thread that you commented on. If you have a loved one who might be interested in a tutu, leotards, or any other dancewear, I’ll be sure to give you a super discount if you order at http://e-dancewear.com . Thanks again Gene!!
  John

• Gene // Jan 17, 2009 at 11:49 pm

  You are welcome, John. I’m glad you were able to fix it.

  Thanks for stopping by.
  Gene.

• John // Mar 17, 2009 at 1:14 pm

  Great tips! Thanks!!

• Bill // Apr 5, 2009 at 7:13 pm

  Thanks AskGene. Easy to understand, perfect instructions. 35 minutes total, to search the web (got lucky, AskGene was my first hit on Google)get the cabinet off, water pump off, motor off, and defective part in hand. Ordering the part online. I’ll be back in business soon.

• Andrew Smith // May 12, 2009 at 3:03 am

  Your repair instructions for Fault code F7 on our GE oven were perfect. The Appliance Parts Pros shipped with no problems. The directions for replacing the control panel were to the ‘Tee’. Thanks for having this website, I’ll tell everyone I know how helpful it was for me.

• Gene // May 12, 2009 at 6:42 pm

  Hello Andrew,

  I’m glad you were able to fix it.
  Thank you for stopping by.

  Gene.

• Jim Stoute // Jun 22, 2009 at 9:05 pm

  Gene, I have read many other entries, great help!
  Now I need some ..GE Refrigerator w/ Ice & Wtr. Dispenser..Mod.PSS26SHRD. Stopped Dispensing Ice..Replaced solenoid valve & actuator switch, everything else works O.K. Select dispense ice, lights dim for ~6 sec. then reset to nornal, you can hear the ice dispense door closing. I disconnected the motor, same symptoms…HELP. Thanks, JIM

• Gene // Jun 23, 2009 at 2:36 am

  Hi Jim,

  Most likely the problem with you refrigerator is a bad main control board on the back of the refrigerator.
  The part number for the main control board is AP4297272 and you can buy it here: http://tinyurl.com/qe54y8

  Thanks for stopping by,
  Gene.

• Jim Stoute // Jun 24, 2009 at 7:44 pm

  GENE,
  Ordered the board yesterday about noon, it came in today about 2:30 pm and at 2:50 the ice dispensing problem was fixed (a much used feature here in Orlando, Fl.). Love it when a plan comes together, Thanks Gene.
  JIM

• Gene // Jun 25, 2009 at 2:33 am

  You are welcome Jim.

  I’m glad you were able to fix it.

  Gene.

• Lauren // Sep 10, 2009 at 6:27 pm

  Hello Gene,

  I read over your VERY helpful troubleshooting article on gas dryers not heating up after I had already taken in the thermal fuse and thermostat to be tested (they were fine). I wish I had found your article first, then I would have known that it was the coils that needed to be replaced. I was quite intimidated and had no idea what I was doing at first, but was brave enough to try to fix it with the help of your photos and step-by-step instructions. My dryer is in perfect working order now, heating up like it should. I’m a stay home mom with 3 kids, so I use the washer and dryer almost every day. Thanks again for your clear and understandable online help. I will be back anytime I have appliance issues, and I’m more knowledgable and confidant to tackle problems myself before calling for an expensive repair that I could do just as well. Best wishes to you.

• Gene // Sep 14, 2009 at 1:06 am

  Thank you very much for your good words! I’m glad it helped you get back in business.

  Gene.

• Karyn // Oct 5, 2009 at 1:06 am

  Thank you so much.

• Ku // Dec 13, 2009 at 10:47 pm

  FANTASTIC. Thank you very much, this was the info I was looking for. No more crouching with my head under the top rack, trying to pick all the sprayer arm holes clean with a pipe cleaner. 😀

• Dan // Dec 24, 2009 at 7:17 am

  Gene this must not be my month for GE appliances. A couple of weeks back I sent you a question regarding an F2 code on my range top and you were nice enough to reply, and I am still waiting for the repair guy to come tomorrow with the replacement part.

  Now tonite we had a scare when our right at 1 year old GE Profile dishwasher decided to have a meltdown. We smelled something burning and sure enough it was the dishwasher. The rotating arm at the bottom had melted on to the lower heating unit. It also melted one of the wheels on the bottom tray. What would you suggest I do in regards to contacting GE. This was installed as I mentioned last year on Dec 27th so I am not sure if the warranty has run out. Your thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated.

  Model # PDW9700N2011
  Serial # RR778386B

  Merry Christmas Gene

• Gene // Dec 24, 2009 at 7:33 am

  Dan,

  It can be very serious issue and you may want to call GE as soon as possible. The warranty is one year and there are a few more days left.

  Thank you for your good words!
  Merry Christmas and Happy New year to you as well!

  Gene.

• Tom DesEnfants // Mar 3, 2010 at 1:56 am

  Thanks,
  The website and your comments led me to replacing the gas coils and they work perfectly.

• Gene // Mar 3, 2010 at 11:43 pm

  You are welcome Tom,

  I’m glad you were able to fix your dryer.

  Gene.

• Chris // Apr 6, 2010 at 5:25 pm

  Ok, my dryer is running again, the issue was a broken pin/connector from the radiant flame sensor, I just screw then again and now it´s workingm thanks for this page Gene, it really helped me to detecto the root cause.

  Kind Regards

  Chris

• Gene // Apr 6, 2010 at 7:34 pm

  I’m glad you are back in business and the repair was that simple with no cost to you.

  Gene.

• howie d // Apr 11, 2010 at 9:42 pm

  great! saved me so much money, i just had to pull a sock out of my pump.

• howie d // Apr 11, 2010 at 9:44 pm

  so much help! i do not even know how much $$ this saved me. just had to pull a sock out of my pump, so did not spend a dime.

• Larry // May 11, 2010 at 5:57 pm

  Boy, am I glad that I found your site with all the answers to my dryer problems. The igniter would come on and the gas would light, but after a few moments the gas would quit lighting. The thermostat would make an awful noise while trying to do what it was designed for. But all the symptoms were adding up to a bad gas valve. I went ahead and replaced them and ran 2 loads of
  laundry with no more problems. Thank you so much for pointing me in the right direction to fix
  my dryer problem. Just as soon as I read where
  the dryer wasn’t heating intermittently, I knew that I had a bad gas valve. Thanks for being there for us do-it-yourselfer’s. Take care and thanks again, Larry

• Gene // May 11, 2010 at 6:47 pm

  You are welcome Larry.

  I’m glad it helped you to fix your dryer. Thank you for your good words.

  Gene.

• Brad Stribling // Aug 3, 2010 at 1:52 am

  Gene,
  Thanks for your postings, replaced my coils on my Whirlpool with the new part and everything is great.
  When removing the front panel on the unit with no kick panel (2 screw description), the door springs do not need to be removed. All else is well described. Thank you!

• Gene // Aug 3, 2010 at 5:21 am

  You are welcome Brad.

  Thank you for the feed back and good luck with your dryer.

  Gene.

• Eric // Aug 17, 2010 at 11:42 pm

  I have hotpoint model HSS25IFMDWW. Water line had been shut off due to a leak. Fixed leak, turned water back on and everything was fine. I figured it would take a while before it started to make ice. I checked it three hours later, and it had produced some ice. Got up at 0300 to get a drink of water and the floor was flooded. Water keeps pouring into the icemaker. Shut off the water supply. Is this a water valve problem?

• Gene // Aug 18, 2010 at 4:22 am

  Hi Eric,

  Most likely the problem is a bad (stuck open) water inlet valve. The correction is to replace it.

  The water inlet valve part number is WR57X10032 and you can order it by clicking on the part number.

  Gene.

• Fred // Aug 20, 2010 at 1:26 pm

  Hi Gene,
  Thank you for your help on my estate gas dryer Mod# TGDX640PQ1 yesterday, it was the gas valve coils. I was able to use the coils from my other gas dryer that has a burned up motor(they use the same part number) which helped a lot because I am out of work and money is a big issue. Thank you again, Fred

• Gene // Aug 20, 2010 at 8:41 pm

  You are welcome Fred.

  I’m glad you were able to fix it with no cost to you.

  Gene.

• Eric // Sep 10, 2010 at 1:51 am

  Gene,

  I just wanted to report another success story with replacement coils. It has been said before, but it bears repeating: thank you! You have done a great service by posting this information.

• Gene // Sep 10, 2010 at 3:20 am

  You are welcome Eric,

  I’m glad it helped you to fix your dryer.

  Thank you for the feed back and good luck with your dryer.

  Gene.

• Ryk McCarty // Sep 14, 2010 at 3:38 pm

  While I never posted a question about my dryer problem (not heating) I quickly had an idea,based on other readers problems, and good solid advice from “Gene”,what my problem was and ordered my parts which arrived in within 2 days. My dryer is repaired and working and I would like to thank you for the confidence this “Gene” forum provides for the DIY. Ryk

• Michael // Dec 1, 2011 at 7:25 pm

  Gene, The fan in my side by side fridge/freezer, (ge model gss22jepa) is not running. It is receiving spurious power as it tries to turn but then just vibrates. If I spin it, it stays running for a bit, though erratically, then it quits. Help.

  Michael

• Gene // Dec 1, 2011 at 7:54 pm

  Hi Michael,

  I’m assuming you meant the evaporator fan which is located inside the freezer. In such situation the best solution is to replace the fan motor and the main control board (on the back of the refrigerator) together. It is proven by hundreds of repairs and recommended by GE.

  The part number for the GE refrigerator evaporator fan motor is AP3191003

  

  The part number for the GE refrigerator main control board is AP4436216

  

  Gene.

• Michael // Dec 1, 2011 at 7:57 pm

  Gene!

  Thank you so much! I’ve nursed this old fridge along for several years now. Not ready to give up yet!

  Michael

• Michael // Dec 1, 2011 at 8:01 pm

  Gene,

  another quick question, does it matter if the door is open or closed with respect to the fan working?

  Thanks again!

  Michael

• Gene // Dec 1, 2011 at 8:11 pm

  No Michael it does not, but if you would like to be absolutely indubitable and still work with the door open, then just tape in the door switch.

  Gene.

• Lynne // Dec 8, 2011 at 9:10 pm

  Thanks great information so easy to follow can fix machine now

• Gene // Dec 9, 2011 at 6:20 pm

  You are welcome. I’m glad it helped you. Thank you for stop by.

  Gene.

• Paul // Dec 13, 2011 at 7:52 am

  Hi, Gene, under topic ” freezer is fine, refrigerator is too warm” in the applicancepartspros forum you state for a fridge like mine GE STS22ICMBRWW, I assume, that the resistance between the wire for the “defrost heater” terminal J9 and the neutral orange wire (pin 9 on the J7 connector) should be about 22 ohms with the freezer cold. I get a reading of about 33 ohms. Does that difference of about 11 ohms indicate a problem? Should I replace anything besides the motherboard? The heater? Anything?

  Thanks very much.

  Paul

• Gene // Dec 14, 2011 at 7:12 am

  Hi Paul,

  The test result you posted is good for your refrigerator. That means there is nothing wrong with the defrost heater and/or defrost thermostat. Can you describe exactly what is wrong with your refrigerator please?

  Gene.

• Diane // Dec 14, 2011 at 7:15 am

  The upper wash arm does not work again. So I purchased another. I installed anouther middle arm and middle spray arm seal. It still does not work. I can move the wash arm to any position in the dishwasher, shut the door, letting the cycle continue to wash and when I open the door, it will always be perpendicular to the door. Once it gets there, it will not move anymore. Also I don’t think there is very much water coming out of it (not enough to spray)

  Any other suggestions you have to fix this problem would be most appreciated.

  whirlpool dishwasher Model # GU1200

• Gene // Dec 14, 2011 at 11:39 am

  Hi Diane,

  Very likely the problem is a bad chopper. It’s shown as #6 on the diagram

  You can find more information as well as instructions in the AppliancePartsPros.com forum

  Gene..

• Kirstie // Dec 14, 2011 at 12:30 pm

  Hello,

  I’m hoping you can help me. My oven quite working the other night when I was trying to warm something up. The broiler and oven do not work, but the burners do. It is a gas stove, and has no plug ins, but I have lit many gas stoves in my life, and for the life of me, I can NOT find any way to light this one. I don’t see any place where there is a pilot on it to be lit.
  With Christmas coming up, I’m hoping this is something I can fix simply, since I will need the oven for dinner and can not afford to replace it during the holidays.
  It looks like a long pipe running from the bottom of the range up to the oven itself, and it has a round valve at the bottom of the pipe (I assume this is where the gas comes in. There is no spot that would be large enough for the flame there, as in my other ovens though.
  I’m a woman, and fairly handy with minor home repairs, but I had to ask my brother in law for help. He looked at it and said it was the strangest thing he’s ever seen and he has no idea how to light it either.

  Any help you can provide would be greatly appreciated.

  Thank you in advance.

  -Kirstie S

• Gene // Dec 14, 2011 at 5:57 pm

  Hi Kristie,

  You forgot to post the model number of your range. Without this information I’m not able to provide any accurate advice.

  Gene.

• René // Aug 29, 2012 at 4:34 pm

  Thanks so much! You had exactly what I needed 🙂

• Wendy // Sep 21, 2012 at 11:43 am

  Gene – Thanks so much for posting this. I had this issue for awhile and just thought I would need to call a repair man again. I followed your directions and it was perfect. You are a Gene-ious!!

• Suzanne Judy // Oct 5, 2012 at 8:46 am

  What a great resource you have created. Your link to Appliance Part Pros got us the right part in 2 days. Then your instructions were spot on. We are back in business in record time. Thanks so much. With money saved I can go have a massage!

• Ramona // Oct 22, 2012 at 1:41 pm

  I agree with Andrew…worked for us…thanks so much. Certainly an expense part.

• Mary Malone // Jun 9, 2013 at 2:12 pm

  I noticed you are the one answering problems with ice makers that won’t dispense ice. I posted a question on the appliance repair forum today as ziprweld1 with a GE Profile Artica. The lights on the panel on front of door works and the ice maker makes ice. The auger will move manually and it doesn’t look like the cup at the back is broken. When dispensing water it is sporadic, but when ice cubes or crushed is used, the light goes dim and nothing happens. Thank you.

• Gene // Jun 10, 2013 at 6:23 pm

  Hello Mary.

  Thank you for the reply to my email I send you yesterday and the model number of your refrigerator. The power to the ice and water dispenser on the door and the auger motor for the ice dispenser inside the freezer is coming from the main control board which is located on the back of the refrigerator. The symptoms you described, especially dim light, are leading to a bad main control board. It comes with the installation instructions and it is not too difficult to replace it yourself.

  The main control board part number WR55X10942

  

  Good luck.Thank you for stopping by.
  Please keep me posted.
  Gene.

• Mary Malone // Jun 11, 2013 at 6:47 am

  Thank you SO MUCH!!! Will order part & give it a try.

• John // Jul 25, 2013 at 8:38 am

  I hope someone still may be checking this post. I have a dryer and the ignitor is staying lit and never going out. But the gas is never being released to light the flame. I think it may be the flame sensor? Does this sound correct?

• Gene // Jul 25, 2013 at 11:55 am

  Hello John.

  You are on the right track. The problem with your dryer is a bad flame sensor. Looks like the contacts inside got welded. If your dryer is made by Whirlpool then the part number for the flame sensor is 338906

  Thanks for stopping by.

  Gene.

• Ron Hirtz // Nov 16, 2013 at 7:26 pm

  I have the F10 error code ohm reading at the plug into the EOC is 35 m ohms the sensor its self read out right at a 1080 ohms so per your upper most diagnostic its pry the EOC but I also have separate relays. Any help would be much appreciated. Its on Frigidaire FEFL69HCA

• Gene // Nov 16, 2013 at 9:41 pm

  Hello Ron.
  Thank you for your question.
  Per your description the reading at the EOC is incorrect while the sensor itself checks OK. The cause of the problem in such situation most likely is a failed wire harness between the sensor and the EOC. I would recommend to eliminate the sensor plug and splice the sensor into the wire harness using a high temperature wire nuts.

  Wire nuts (pack of 10)
  AP5641944

  Good luck and keep us posted.
  Gene.

• dave // Nov 18, 2013 at 6:16 pm

  Gene. I have a frigidare oven that the oven stopped working.the broiler is stll working fine.i called an appliance tech and he told me the eoc is bad so i orderd one and installed it. Still not working but the igniter fires up now. The temp sensor is 1119 ohms never any fault codes shown on the display.any ideas on what the problem is .

• Gene // Nov 21, 2013 at 3:17 pm

  Hello Dave.
  Thank you for your question.
  If the igniter glows but the gas doesn’t flow, possible the igniter itself is to weak to open the gas safety valve. You may want to check the igniter by measuring the current drawn by the igniter. You can do it using a simple and inexpensive clamp-on meter 600-CF
  If you don’t like it then just replace the oven igniter. You can use an universal flat oven igniter, made by GE. All such igniters are interchangeable. The part number is WB2X9998

  Good luck and keep us posted.
  Gene.

• josh // Apr 10, 2014 at 4:05 pm

  hello gene I have a Frigidaire PLEFMZ99GCC oven.. it started to throw a f10 code after about 15min on bake and wont stop beeping until I unplug it..ive noticed the element will stay glowing red even when the oven beeps at the 350 mark I have it set for then throws the code a few minutes later… I tested the tempature sensor and it reads 1100 at room temp, and reads the same at the plug when I unplug it from the board and test it… I was going to buy a eoc but it looks like I have a few other panels with relays etc and wanted your advice before pulling the trigger.. thanks josh

• Gene // Apr 10, 2014 at 5:03 pm

  Hello Josh.
  Thank you for your question.
  By the wiring diagram for your range, both oven heating elements getting power from the EOC. Thus the solution is to replace it.
  The part number for the EOC is 316462800.
  The overlay is self adhesive. You can try to use the old one but if you damage it, the part number for the overlay is 316419700
  Good luck and keep us posted.
  Gene.

• Kevin Foster // Jun 6, 2014 at 6:47 am

  Good day, Gene

  I have a Frigidaire Electric Range
  Model #GLEF379DBK

  The other night my range just started beeping all of a sudden and flashing a F10 error.

  I was able to clear it by pressing the clear/off button.

  Last night I tried to use the oven and it started flashing a F30 error. I read that you could try to cut the power to the range for a little while and see if the range would reset.

  I did this and it didn’t work. As soon as I turn on the oven it started flashing the F30 error.

  Can you tell me what could be causing this error code and what parts I’ll need to replace?

  I would appreciate any you can provide!

  Thanks,
  Kevin

• Gene // Jun 6, 2014 at 5:35 pm

  Hello Kevin.
  Thank you for your question.
  You may want to start the troubleshooting from testing the temperature probe (sensor).
  Pull the range out of the wall and unplug it. Remove the rear control panel cover. Locate the P5 connector at the EOC and remove two violet wires from pins 12 and 13. Measure the resistance between these wires. The normal reading should be about 1100 Ohms at the room temperature.
  If the reading is incorrect, the temperature probe (sensor) would need to be replaced.
  The part number for the temperature probe is 316490000

  If the reading is normal, the EOC has failed and would need to be replaced. You may need to replace the overlay as well.
  The part number for the EOC is 316557205
  The part number for the overlay is 316419303

  Good luck and keep us posted.
  Gene.

• Gene // Aug 6, 2014 at 11:40 am

  Hello Walter.
  Thank you for your question.

  You may want to check for continuity the flame sensor and the hi-limit thermostat. If they check as functional then the timer might be the culprit. Check the timer for continuity between the terminals BK and R. The timer has to be set on. If there is no continuity, the timer would need to be replaced.

  The flame sensor 338906

  

  The hi-limit thermostat 279048

  

  The timer 3976574

  

  Good luck and keep us posted.
  Gene.

• Walter // Aug 13, 2014 at 9:34 pm

  Gene,

  Thank you for your helpful advice. As you recommended, I removed the flame sensor to check it for continuity. I was immediately intrigued, as electrical devices normally have two or more wires and it’s very hard to check for continuity across one. I thought that the circuit could possibly complete through the chassis, as this is how cars do it, but then I poked around a bit and found a stray wire with the broken-off terminal still in its jaws. I followed your link, ordered the part (very painless and the part arrived very quickly), and put it in and bada bing, problem solved.

  Thanks again for helping me out. I am most grateful.

  P.S. Your link to the Maytag flame sensor leads to a Whirlpool igniter, so you might want to revise the link.

• Gene // Aug 17, 2014 at 5:12 pm

  Hello Walter,

  Thank you for your good words!
  I’m glad to hear you were able to diagnose and fix the problem with your dryer. Good job!

  Thank you for pointing me to a bad link. I double checked all links and did not find anything wrong.

  Thanks again for stopping by and your feedback.
  Gene.

• Frank // Nov 4, 2014 at 3:56 pm

  I have an Electrolux model#EW30DF65GSB.
  It gives me the F10 error sporadically. Sometimes while the oven is on but most of the time while the oven is cooling off. Usually an hour or so after it has been shut off.
  Both probes check 1178-1179 OHMS at the probe and the board. I do have several boards. It appears I do have a separate power/relay board, EOC board and a power supply board. Do you have a suggestion as to which board is acting up?
  Thank you

• Gene // Nov 5, 2014 at 11:41 pm

  Hello Frank,

  Thank you for your question.
  If you receiving this error code while the oven is off and not heating then the solution for this problem is to replace the EOC.
  The part number for the EOC is 316576604 and you can order the part by clicking on the part number. If it would not solve the problem, you always can return the part for full refund.

  Thank you for stopping by. Keep me posted.
  Gene.

• Michael Frattaroli // Nov 22, 2014 at 3:53 am

  I was able to fix mine by removing the ribbon cable, cleaning with alcohol and reinserting it. Also don’t forget there are tabs on each side of the ribbon cable socket that must be lifted out prior to removal and reinsertion.

• Paul // Nov 27, 2014 at 12:21 pm

  On my ge double oven it was a simple fix. the temperature sensor is made at a slight angle. the one in my top oven was mounted to point slightly down.this oven works. the one in my bottom oven was put in angling slightly upward and close to the heating coils which was cause it to over heat and trip the code. I simply turned it over and oven now works fine.

• Tom Huebner // Nov 28, 2014 at 5:18 pm

  My oven won’t relight after reaching bake temperature,the igniter clicks,burner lights and igniter keeps clicking and burner goes out.If you cancel and restart it’s the same thing.So far I have replaced the igniter,temp.probe and the gas valve. Still the same situation!!!
  Someone please help I’m going nuts!

• Gene // Nov 30, 2014 at 4:36 pm

  Hello Tom,

  In order to provide most accurate advice I need the complete model number of the oven.

  Thank you for your question,
  Gene.

• Martha tebbenkamp // Nov 29, 2014 at 5:54 am

  Good morning,

  I am writing on behalf of my 90 year old mother who has a ken more model 790 built in oven. She has had repeated problems with it stopping, locking up in the model of cooking, turning off, etc. she gets error code 11. The question I have is : does the oven control sensor store these failures ? The problem with a warranty under the lemon agreement is that the failures must be verified by a technician. When the repairman come sout, the oven may be functioning properly, so it is hard to verify this intermittent problem. Could the oven control data be used to verify these failures, maybe downloaded by a tech ?

  Thank you for helping an elderly veteran with this vexing problem.

• Gene // Nov 30, 2014 at 4:31 pm

  Hello Martha,

  I will be more than glad to help you and your lovely mother! In order to provide most accurate advice I need the complete model number of the oven.

  Thank you,
  Gene.

• Tom // Nov 30, 2014 at 4:49 pm

  It’s a whirlpool wfg371lvq
  Thanks for your response gene

• Gene // Nov 30, 2014 at 5:24 pm

  Hello Tom,
  Thank you for the model number.

  Remove the Bake burner and check the lighting holes (circled red on the attached picture). If there are only four holes then the Bake burner has to be replaced. If there are eight holes then you have to enlarge them using a drill bit one size bigger.

  The new bake burner part number is 9758078
  You can order the part by clicking on the part number.

  

  Keep me posted.
  Gene.

• George // Dec 1, 2014 at 4:55 am

  Hi Gene, I posted this on 11/24/14 but somehow it was deleted.

  We have an Electrolux Icon electric wall oven E30EW75GPS1 that a few times now while baking the broiler element has come on all by itself and then it beeps with an F10 error.

  Can you please tell me, does this sound like a bad control board? And if so, can you please help me identify the correct part to order on your website?

  Thanks for your help!

• Gene // Dec 2, 2014 at 10:14 pm

  Hello George,

  Sorry for the delay.
  Very likely the problem is a faulty relay board. It is located behind the control panel. Do not forget to turn off the oven circuit breaker prior to any disassembly.

  The part number for the relay board is 316443925

  Thank you for stopping by.
  Good luck.
  Gene.

• Dave McManus // Dec 1, 2014 at 6:24 am

  I own a GE Profile gas stove model # JGBP79… Top burners all work fine. The oven and broiler don’t work at all. I hear the relays click however nothing happens. The glow ignitor isn’t glowing. I’m thinking safety valve?? I think it’s the only thing in common with the oven and broiler? Any help would be appreciated. Dave

• Gene // Dec 1, 2014 at 1:16 pm

  Hello Dave,

  The model number you posted is incomplete. There suppose to be 6 more characters after 9. Please double check it and resubmit.

  Thank you,
  Gene.

• Tom // Dec 1, 2014 at 6:41 am

  Hi gene. The holes were a number 50 drill so I opened th up to a number 49. It’s doing the same thing , ran and cycled for half hour and then nothing . I do have a spark module on order , do you think that’s it since it’s the next thing to replace that I haven’t?
  Thanks Tom

• Gene // Dec 1, 2014 at 12:51 pm

  Hello Tom,

  You said you already tried to replace the igniter and the gas valve. Do you still have them installed? If not, put them in the place, check the wire between the igniter and the spark module and give it a try. If it will do the same, possible the spark module is the culprit. Just to make sure you did order the correct part, the part number for the spark module is W10331686.

  Good luck,
  Gene.

• steve // Dec 1, 2014 at 11:20 am

  hi gene

  i have frigidaire range that keep giving f30 & f31 errors – i managed to reset by tripping the breaker but now after about 15 mins it does the same F30 and F31 – the model is PLEFMZ99ECC can you advise parts etc to replace

  thanks

  steve

• Gene // Dec 1, 2014 at 1:10 pm

  Hello Steve,

  Unplug the range. Pull it out of the wall and remove the control panel rear cover. Locate the temperature sensor (RTD) plug on the control board (EOC). Carefully pull it out and, using an Ohmmeter, check the resistance between the sensor wires. It suppose to be about 1100 Ohms. If the reading is incorrect check the sensor wire harness and repeat the continuity test at the RTD bottom plug. If the reading is still incorrect, the RTD would need to be replaced. Otherwise the EOC is the culprit and would need to be replaced.

  The RTD part number is 316490001

  The EOC part number is 316418704

  Thank you for your question.
  Keep me posted.
  Gene.

• steve // Dec 2, 2014 at 11:44 am

  hi gene

  PLEFMZ99ECC used to get f30 but now getting F7 12 and the front element wont turn off – any ideas ?

• Gene // Dec 2, 2014 at 10:00 pm

  Hello Steve,

  Sorry to hear you have more problems with your range.
  This error code indicates a failed potentiometer for LF burner, a user interface board or the harness between the mother board and the user interface boards.
  Start the troubleshooting from verifying the resistance value of the potentiometer. There are two different potentiometers with the ESEC control system. The one in question is black colored. Prior to testing make sure that the shaft is set to the off position, disconnect the wire harness and use an ohmmeter to measure the resistance between pins 1 & 2 on the potentiometer. The black potentiometer should have a resistance of 10KΩ. If the reading is correct, test operation of the potentiometer by measuring the resistance between pin terminal G (center) and either of the outside pin terminals as the control shaft is being rotated slowly. There should be a steady increase or decrease in the measured resistance as the shaft is turned.

  If the potentiometer failed any of the tests, it would need to be replaced. Otherwise if the wire harnesses are good, the user interface board would need to be replaced.

  The part number for the potentiometer is 316239605

  The part number for the UIB is 316426400

  Good luck.
  Gene.

• Dan // Dec 2, 2014 at 7:22 pm

  So out of the blue my dryer would heat at first, and then later into the cycle it would no longer heat. At first I replaced the thermostat and fuse with no success. I then replaced the gas valve coils and voilà! The dryer worked again! However, a couple days later it stopped working again. However, now it doesn’t heat at all, not even at the beginning of the cycle like it did before. Thoughts? I’m thinking maybe the gas valve coils I bought were bad? (I did not buy them from here, but maybe I will next time if this is likely the problem.).

• Gene // Dec 2, 2014 at 7:57 pm

  Hello Dan,

  You may want to check the thermal fuse and the igniter for continuity. Let me know the result. The complete model number of the dryer would help too.

  Thank you,
  Gene.

• Tom // Dec 5, 2014 at 5:42 am

  Hi gene first of all thanks for your help!!! It did end up being the spark module. It actually showed signs I heat damage by two of the resisters on the PC board
  Again Thanks
  Tom

• Gene // Dec 5, 2014 at 4:45 pm

  You are welcome Tom.
  I’m glad you were able to fix it.

  Thank you for the feed back.
  Gene.

• Jim // Dec 8, 2014 at 1:00 pm

  Hi Gene.
  I have a Frigidaire Mod. #FGF337ABJ It’s throwing the F10. I checked the sensor and it’s 1102. When I check the EOC it give a random number and goes back to OL on the tester. I have a used stove of the same kind just different color. When I test those two part on it I get the same results. Is it me or do I have two bad EOC’s?

• Gene // Dec 18, 2014 at 7:58 pm

  Hello Jim,

  Sorry for the delay. I was out of town.
  This error code means that EOC thinks a runaway condition exists. Per your description the temperature sensor checks OK. You can not check the EOC instrumentally. So the only solution is to replace the EOC.

  The part number for the EOC 316455410

  Thank you for your question. Keep me posted.
  Good luck.
  Gene.

• Valerie // Dec 17, 2014 at 8:27 am

  Hello Gene!
  I ran the self clean on my electrolux and within 2 weeks of using my oven again, I had the F10 runaway temperature alarm. It was 1 hr into baking and the temperature did runaway, everything was black. I was able to use it a couple times after but the cooking times varied between a little slow and A LOT slow. I then received a 2nd f10 error and this time because I was only running my oven when I could babysit it, I want to say that my oven decided to go into broil mode because it happened quickly (<2 mins) and in both instances with the f10 error my pans were only ever charred on the top, never on the bottom.

  I was reading your site and trouble shooting. We pulled out the oven temperature sensor. It measured 1050 ohms, we then tested it back at the EOC, same reading. So we took out every heating element, inspected and tested them and we had continuity. So we were back to blaming the EOC. Especially since the EOC had failed once before on warranty (it completely burned out and wouldn't work at all) and the repair tech told me that self clean was likely to blame with the self clean heat being horrible for electronics.

  Our other reason for blaming the EOC was the loss off other functions on the oven. The rapid preheat would report that the oven was heated but if you cancelled that and initiated any other regular (without rapid preheat) heating mode (convection, roast, bake) they would all say the oven was 150 degrees behind what the rapid preheat gave. I bought laser thermometer for the oven and it would verify the lower temperature. Also, it currently takes my oven at least 45 mins to heat up. This is why we were back to thinking that the electronics weren't working.

  We bit the bullet and bought the EOC, I installed it….and have had no change in operation :(. Please help!

  Valerie

• Gene // Dec 19, 2014 at 11:42 am

  Hello Valerie,

  Sad story. Possible you missed something in diagnostic. In order to provide most accurate advice I need the complete model number of the oven and the part number of the EOC you installed.

  Thank you for your question.
  Gene.

• George // Dec 19, 2014 at 10:54 am

  Hi Gene, thanks for the reply! In regards to my Electrolux Icon electric wall oven E30EW75GPS1

  In addition to the broiler coming on all by itself and this overheating the oven, we also noticed sometimes during baking the temp. creeps up about 20-50 degrees over the setpoint; but the display still shows the correct temp.

  With this info. do you still suspect the relay board 316443925 ?

  Thanks, please let me know and I’ll place an order.

  Happy holidays!

• Gene // Dec 19, 2014 at 11:35 am

  Hi George,

  I believe the relay board will solve the problem. If you would order the part from AppliancePartsPros.com by clocking on the part number I posted, you have nothing to loose. If it would not fix the problem you have up to 365 days to return the part for full refund.

  Happy holidays to you and your loved one as well!
  Gene.
  P.S. Just curious how did you note the difference in temperature?

• Valerie // Dec 19, 2014 at 11:49 am

  Hi Gene,
  The model number for the range is CEW30EF6GSC. The EOC that we ordered was 316576600.
  Thank you in advance!
  Valerie

• Gene // Dec 19, 2014 at 12:58 pm

  Valerie,

  Looks like the problem is a faulty oven relay board. You may want to replace it as well.

  The part number for the oven relay board 316443920

  You can order the part by clicking on the part number.

  If in spite of everything it would not fix the problem, you can return it to AppliancePartsPros.com within 365 days.

  Good luck and Happy Holidays.
  Gene.

• darlene // Dec 19, 2014 at 7:03 pm

  The frigidaire stove my son has has a f10 code. I have heard a few times what sounded like it shorting out from the control knobs on the right side. I dont know model number but do think the stove could have shorted out and it ave a f10 code

• Gene // Dec 19, 2014 at 8:29 pm

  Hello Darlene,

  The complete model number is very important for proper diagnostic and accurate advice. You can find it on the range frame behind the bottom drawer.

  Thank you,
  Gene.

• James // Dec 21, 2014 at 11:14 am

  hi Gene i have a frigidaire stove that is showing an f11 code. the stove was not in use at the time and it just started beeping and showing code. how do i fix this i havn’t even had the stove for a year. Model number is FFEF3011LWD

• Gene // Dec 22, 2014 at 2:25 pm

  Hi George,

  Yes, you were right. The relay board is located behind the oven rear
  panel what means you do have to pull the oven of the cabinet. As soon as
  you remove the rear panel the board should be visible. Do not forget to
  remove the power from the oven prior to repair.

  Gene.

• Gene // Dec 21, 2014 at 12:39 pm

  Hello James,

  Unplug the range or turn off the range circuit breaker for a few minutes and reapply power. If the error code returns, the EOC would need to be replaced.

  The EOC part number 316455400

  Thank you for your question.

  Happy holidays!

  Keep me posted.
  Gene.

• Kyle // Dec 22, 2014 at 1:13 pm

  Hi, I have an old Whirlpool GGQ8858EQ0 dryer that does not heat. It worked when my wife dried a comforter. Next load would not heat. I replaced the gas valve solenoids part number 279834, but it still stays cold for the whole cycle. Any idea what I need to check/replace?

• Gene // Dec 22, 2014 at 2:00 pm

  Hello Kyle,

  I need more detailed description on the problem.
  Make sure the gas shut off valve behind the dryer is completely open.
  Does the igniter glow?
  If it does not, check the thermal fuse, the igniter and the flame sensor for continuity and post the results.
  If it does glow and the shut off valve is open, very likely the gas valve has gone bad.

  Gene.

• George // Dec 22, 2014 at 3:32 pm

  Hi Gene, thanks I really appreciate your time. Also, just a side note I have purchased various parts from appliancepartspros.com over the years and have always been very happy, top notch business.

  Thanks again and merry Christmas!

  George

• Gene // Dec 19, 2014 at 1:01 pm

  Hi George,

  You are welcome and thank you for the feedback.

  Good luck.
  Gene.

• Len // Dec 23, 2014 at 11:03 pm

  Hi Gene: I have a Frigidaire Gallery -Self Cleaning Convection Oven (electric) model#DFEF385JHS2.
  My wife was doing some Xmas baking and set oven to 350 and about 10 minutes into the baking the oven started beeping and the F8 code came up. She hit oven cancel and it went off but then started beeping again and the same code appeared. She noticed the oven was cooking very hot. I had noticed the same thing earlier in the day while baking chicken but no code came up at that time. Any ideas what is wrong? Thanks…(.Not a good time for an oven to not work as gotten cook the Christmas bird on Thursday. LOL)

• Gene // Dec 24, 2014 at 12:11 am

  Hello Len,

  This error code means the microprocessor has found the lock motor switches to be out of sequence or shorted. The cause of the problem can be a failed lock motor switches or a failed EOC. Unfortunately both parts have been discontinued and are no longer available. The good part of this sad news is that you got nice opportunity for a good New Year (or may be it’s not too late for Christmas?!) present to your wife – a new range!

  Happy holidays!
  Gene.

• Craig // Dec 24, 2014 at 6:30 am

  Hi Gene,

  Thanks for the information on this site. Our oven flashed F10 and went into runaway temps. With the diagnostics above, I was able to pretty quickly determine that the EOC was bad. Replaced it and was back in business.

  My wife is suspicious of the temperature, however. Is there a way to calibrate the EOC?

  Thanks again.

• Gene // Dec 24, 2014 at 1:10 pm

  Hello Craig,

  It is not difficult to do it but, for more accurate advice I need the complete model number of the oven.

  Thank you for your good words.
  Happy holidays!
  Gene.

• Ken // Dec 24, 2014 at 4:00 pm

  Gene,
  Merry Christmas. We just had a something similar to what happened to Len yesterday. My wife was baking cookies at 350 and the stove tripped the breaker. I checked and reset the breaker only to have the oven (316233850) alarmed and locked the door like it was going into the clean. I was able to clear the lock and the oven gave an F1 code. I checked the sensor and and it checked at 1100.

• Gene // Dec 24, 2014 at 5:31 pm

  Hi Ken,

  Merry Christmas and Happy New year to you as well!

  Thank you for your question.

  In order to provide most accurate advice I need the complete model number of the range. The part number you posted is for the panel which has nothing to do with this problem.

  Gene.

• Ken // Dec 25, 2014 at 7:12 am

  Hello Gene,
  Thank you for GLEFS77CSC is the model number I was able to clear the lock and the oven gave an F1 code. I checked the sensor and and it checked at 1100. The oven keeps beeping top range is working.

  Ken

• Gene // Dec 26, 2014 at 1:53 pm

  Hello Ken,

  Looks like the cause of the problem is a faulty EOC. It would need to be replaced.

  The EOC part number 316207529

  Happy New year!
  Good luck.
  Gene.

• Rick // Dec 25, 2014 at 7:23 am

  I have a Frigidaire model #GLEB30T9DBA double wall oven. I get a f10 error code only on the top oven. The lower oven has no issues. Would the most likely problem be the temp. sensor???

• Gene // Dec 26, 2014 at 2:29 pm

  Hello Rick,

  This problem can be caused by a faulty temperature sensor as well as a faulty relay board.

  Remove the power from the oven and pull the oven out of the cabinet. Remove the rear panel and locate the relay board. Check the upper oven temperature sensor by measuring resistance between two wires connected to the pin 9 and 10 at the plug P27. The normal reading should be about 1100 Ohms at room temperature. If the reading is incorrect, the temperature sensor would need to be replaced. Otherwise the relay board is the culprit.

  The temperature sensor part number 316217002

  The relay board part number 316429800

  This part is on back order. In order to determine ETA you may want to click on the following link to chat with a representative. AppliancePartsPros.com

  Happy New year!
  Keep me posted.
  Gene.

• Kyle // Dec 25, 2014 at 1:46 pm

  Sorry for the delay. Thermal fuse has no continuity, everything else does. Gas valve was open when running dryer. My model number is GGQ8858EQ0. Is the fuse you have listed above the correct one for me? It looks exactly the same.

• Gene // Dec 26, 2014 at 2:39 pm

  Hello Kyle,

  Yes, this is the part you were looking for. Just click on the part number to order it.

  You also may want to clean the dryer vents as well as the dryer inside.

  Happy New year!
  Gene.

• Ken // Dec 28, 2014 at 1:36 pm

  Hello Gene, Thank you for the info.. Is there a way to silence the alarm so we can still use the range?

• Gene // Dec 28, 2014 at 2:41 pm

  Hello Ken,

  The only way you can do it is to disconnect the EOC. Unplug the range and remove the rear panel. Unplug from the EOC the black wire connected to the L1 terminal and insulate it using an electric insulation tape. Assemble it back and reapply power to the range. The display should be blank.

  Gene.

• Ken // Dec 29, 2014 at 9:59 am

  Hello Gene,

  Thank you, you always answer quickly. I placed my order for the needed EOC today. I decided just to keep the range unplugged until the new EOC is installed.

  Ken

• Gene // Dec 29, 2014 at 5:05 pm

  Hi Gene, hope you had a nice Christmas. I just wanted to let you know, the relay board did indeed solve the issue. In fact the old one had black marks on it you could tell it was bad.

  Thanks again and happy New Year!

  George

• Indie Smith // Jan 1, 2015 at 9:56 am

  We have a GE Spectra Oven – GAS – we keep getting F7 error codes and the oven will not heat. We have now replaced control panel and still no heat. What could the problem be. Thanks for your help.

• Gene // Jan 1, 2015 at 12:35 pm

  Hello Indie,

  Thank you for your question.

  In order to provide most accurate advice I need the complete model number of the oven.

  Gene.

• Steve Hall // Jan 1, 2015 at 1:16 pm

  Gene I have 2 questions. I have a frigidaire FEFL79HBA range that gave error F10. Cancel would not stop the beeping so I threw the breaker. Turned it back on and set temp back to 350 and it errored again. This was after several hours of Thanksgiving cooking. I decided to try it again before ordering parts. As long as we only use average cooking times there is no problem but last week the wife baked a ham then I roasted some chicken then made dressing…after several hours of using the oven it gave F10 again. So if we only use it for 30 minutes or an hour no errors but after a few hours (maybe 4 or more) it errors. What do you think it could be? Also we have a frigidaire front load washer and occasionally after starting a load of clothes when we come back to check the clothes we occasionally get an error that says “no water”. The clothes are partially washed and usually soaking wet with water. The only solution we have found is to restart the load. When I pull the detergent tray out some of the detergent is still in the tray and some water too. After we restart the load it will complete successfully. Any ideas on this one? I have googled no water and not found anything. Thanks in advance.

• Gene // Jan 1, 2015 at 2:01 pm

  Hello Steve,

  Thank you for your questions.

  1. The F10 error code means the control senses runaway temperature. At the time, this error code appears unplug the range and remove the rear panel. Locate the P5 connection plug at the EOC and check the temperature probe by measuring the resistance between the wires connected to pins 14 & 15. With the oven temperature at about 350ºF normal reading should be about 1660 Ohms. If the reading is incorrect, check the temperature probe wire harness. If there is nothing wrong, the temperature probe would need to be replaced.

  The temperature probe part number is 316490000.

  If the temperature probe tests OK, the EOC would need to be replaced.

  The EOC part number is 316418707.

  2. In regards to the second question, I need the complete model number of the washer.

  Gene.

• sharon // Jan 1, 2015 at 10:09 pm

  i have a frigidaire model fgef301dnb. I got the code f11 and it won’t stop beeping. I pressed the cancel button, but the error comes back. Everything works fine.

• Gene // Jan 3, 2015 at 7:48 pm

  Hello Sharon,

  Sorry for the delay.

  This error code means it was detected a shorted key on the keypad. In this range there are no a separate keypad. Thus the solution is to replace the timer which comes together with the overlay.

  The timer part number is 318566047

  You can order the part by clicking on the part number.

  Thank you for stopping by. Keep me posted please.

  Gene.

• Steve Hall // Jan 2, 2015 at 11:00 am

  Gene the model of the Frigidaire washer is FAFS4272LA0. Thank you so much.

• Gene // Jan 3, 2015 at 8:27 pm

  Hello Steve,

  Thank you for the reply.
  Any error codes in your washer consists of letter “E” followed by two digits. Which error code did you get? If you are not sure, the last 5 error codes are stored in the memory. In order to recall them follow the instructions from the tech sheet and post the result:

  Press the “cancel” button to enter standby mode and enable diagnostic entry.
  Within 10 seconds after pressing “cancel”, press any button (except the cancel button) to wake up the control.
  Within 5 seconds of wake up, turn the selector knob to the far left cycle and press and hold the “cancel” and center button under the display simultaneously for 3 seconds to enter the Diagnostic Mode.
  Turn the program knob clockwise 9 turns (clicks) from the Start Position. The control will signal the last 5 error codes with E00 meaning no error experienced.

  To return the washer to normal operation unplug the power cord, wait 5-8 seconds, then reconnect the power cord.

  Gene.

• Kyle // Jan 2, 2015 at 10:10 pm

  I have a whirlpool has dryer, model wgd4800xq1
  My dryer does not heat up at all! I replaced the thermal fuse, still nothing lights up! I checked the flame sensor and the ignitor for continuity and they are both good! When it runs and I look through the peep hole at the bottom nothing is lit up, nothing glows! What do you think this could be and about how much would it cost?

• Gene // Jan 4, 2015 at 12:26 pm

  Hello Kyle,

  There are a few parts in the heating circuit in your dryer. You may want to check them all for continuity before you will replace anything else. Unplug the dryer and remove the wires connected to the parts you are going to test. Start testing from the cycling thermostat (across two large terminals) which is located on the blower wheel housing, next to the thermal fuse. Then check the hi-limit thermostat and the thermal cut-off. Both of them are located on the heater box.
  If all of the above parts tested as functional, open the control panel and check the timer for continuity between the terminals A and C while the timer is in on position. If there is no continuity, the timer would need to be replaced.

  The cycling thermostat part number is 3387134

  The hi-limit thermostat part number is w10423382

  The thermal cut-off comes as a kit, including the hi-limit thermostat. Both parts have to be installed. The thermal cut-off kit part number is w10480709

  The timer part number is w10185981

  You can view the prices and order a needed part by clicking on the part number.

  Good luck.
  Gene.

• Jacqui // Jan 3, 2015 at 3:06 am

  Ok so with your website I’ve figured out what is wrong with my stove…it won’t stop beeping and my problem is won’t be able to do anything about my error until Monday morning. Is it safe to leave appliance unplugged for a few days.

  Thanks so much
  Jacqui

• Gene // Jan 4, 2015 at 11:59 am

  Hello Jacqui,

  My answer is Yes. Actually it is always the safest way.

  Gene.

• Eric Johnson // Jan 3, 2015 at 7:30 pm

  I have a Frigidaire FPES3085KFC that started throwing F30 during a self-cleaning cycle. After several power-cycles with the same error, I came to your page. It does indeed appear to be the Temperature Probe as the plastic wire harness connector is melted. I checked the resistance on the probe’s bare wires and it reads 1099 ohms. The oven throws F30 regardless of whether the probe is attached. The wiring harness resistance indicates no connectivity (the purple wires coming from the EOC). I’m thinking that replacing the wiring harness might be warranted, but it looks like a chore to access the rest of it, and I don’t see a part number for it anyway. Do you have a suggestion? For now, I guess I’ll remove all remnant melted plastic from the connectors to rule out a short inside that molten mess.

• Gene // Jan 4, 2015 at 1:07 pm

  Hello Eric,

  If the problem just melted wire harness connector and the temperature probe tests out OK then the easiest solution is to eliminate this melted plug and connect the wires using a high temperature porcelain wire nuts. You can get them in a hard ware store or order from AppliancePartsPros.com by clicking on the following part number.

  The porcelain wire nuts part number is AP5641944

  Good luck.
  Gene.

• Eric Johnson // Jan 4, 2015 at 1:10 pm

  You can disregard my question, thanks to your troubleshooting steps on this page, I managed to isolate the problem and repair my shorted temperature probe without replacing any parts. I just cleaned up the melted connector, taped it, and repositioned it outside of the insulation where it won’t get so hot in the future. Thanks again!

  Eric

• Steve Hall // Jan 5, 2015 at 11:23 am

  Gene I did this and the only code I get is E11 Water. Previously we had a code I do not recall which it was but it led me to do some meter measurements on the motor and possible issues were the motor and the control board. I did not like the readings I got on the motor so I did not trust my meter so I replaced both the motor and the control at that time. That has been quite a while now.

• Gene // Jan 12, 2015 at 10:16 pm

  Hello Steve,

  Sony for the delay.

  E11 error code means “Fill time is too long”. Make sure the incoming water has a good pressure. You may want to start the troubleshooting from checking both fill hoses. Make sure they are not kinked or blocked. Shut off the water to the washer. Remove the fill hoses from the washer and check the screens. Clean them if needed. If this is not the issue, the water inlet valve assembly will need to be replaced.

  The water inlet valve assembly part number is 134637810

  Good luck.
  Gene.

• Kyle // Jan 5, 2015 at 8:10 pm

  So it was the thermal cut off! However now that it works and heats up, it takes a really long time to dry, as it did before the cut off went out! What should I do now?

• Gene // Jan 12, 2015 at 10:26 pm

  Hello Kyle,

  Sorry for the delay.

  The most common reason for long time to dry is restricted dryer vent. It needs cleaning every year. Especially if it goes on top of the roof. Make sure the vent hood is clean and not blocked.

  Gene.

• Gene // Jan 12, 2015 at 10:29 pm

  Hello Kyle,

  Sorry for the delay.

  The most common reason for long time to dry is restricted dryer vent. It needs cleaning once a year. If the vent is really long then such cleaning requires a special equipment and should be done by professional. Check the vent hood. Make sure it’s clean.

  Gene.

• Lee // Jan 8, 2015 at 9:01 pm

  Hi Gene,

  I have a Whirlpool Gas Dryer that heats intermittently — after reading your comments I bought a set of coils. I have one question: My igniter was not lighting, but tested fine as did the thermal sensor, but I found when I plugged/unplugged the thermal sensor everything would work fine for a week or so. Hoping the coils do the trick!

  My model is :WGD9400SW1

• Gene // Jan 12, 2015 at 10:45 pm

  Hello Lee,

  Before we will proceed with troubleshooting I would like to verify which part did you call “thermal sensor”.

  Thank you,
  Gene.

• Ron // Jan 9, 2015 at 9:18 pm

  Hi Gene,
  Have a poblem with my KitchenAid microwave oven, which I have traced to the monitor interlock switch. This one is a normally closed switch, and is supposed to be open (no continuity)when the door is closed. When I leave the wires connected to the switch and test for continuity, I have continuity through the switch whether the door is open or closed.
  Thinking the switch had gone bad, I removed the wires and tested the switch with no wires connected. In this case the switch acts as it should-(when the activator nub is pushed the switch opens just as it should). So the switch appears to not be bad.
  With the switch in place and connected normally, the microwave will not start running/heating. But when I disconnected one of the wires from the monitor interlock switch (as a test to substitute for the switch opening) the microwave WILL now start running and heating when I press start.

  So I gather that the switch itself is not bad but something else is wrong which involves the circuit through the switch. Any ideas?

• Gene // Jan 12, 2015 at 10:50 pm

  Hello Ron,

  Thank you for your question. In order to provide most accurate advice I need the complete model number of the microwave.

  Gene.

• Ehsan Rehman // Jan 10, 2015 at 6:00 pm

  Hello Gene,

  We have a Frigidaire Oven, model # FGFLZ87GCA. It is giving F11 error.
  Starts beeping then stops and starts again after a while. The burners work fine, oven cannot be used. Any suggestion is highly appreciated.

  Thanks, Ehsan.

• Gene // Jan 12, 2015 at 11:11 pm

  Hello Ehsan,

  F11 error code means a shorted key in the keypad. There is no a separate keypad in your range. Thus, the solution is to replace the EOC.

  The EOC part number is 316418708

  You can order it by clicking on the part number.

  Thank you.
  Gene.

• jeff // Jan 12, 2015 at 3:11 am

  My range is showing me a code F90 and the oven won’t come on Model lggf3042kf

• Gene // Jan 12, 2015 at 11:19 pm

  Hello Jeff,

  Looks like there is a problem with the door latch motor when the door has to be unlatched. Did the motor run or not?
  Also the model number you posted is incomplete. There suppose to be one more letter. Please verify the model number and repost it.

  Thank you,
  Gene.

• Ron Salzman // Jan 13, 2015 at 5:57 am

  Hi Gene,

  Thanks for the reply. I figured out the problem; it turned out to be a bad connection at the door switch. (I had checked for continuity there earlier and it appeared OK, but the connection turned out to be very poor).

  -Ron

• parm // Jan 17, 2015 at 1:31 am

  In my case it was the keypad. The number “3” on the keypad was stuck and hence “f7” error code. I gently pried the two sandwiched membrane layers of the key pad just close to the number “3”. That’s it . I got the key unstuck and the whole thing works awesome.

• kimberly // Feb 26, 2015 at 6:22 pm

  Hi I have a frigidaire gas oven model LFGF3014LBC and have been getting f10 error for a while and now just started getting and f30 error as well what needs to be fixed and can I do this myself?

• Gene // Feb 26, 2015 at 6:54 pm

  Hello Kimberly,
  Thank you for your question.
  If you got both error codes while the oven was in day time mode, the correction is to replace the EOC. You may want to replace it together with the overlay. This job is pretty easy if you know how to handle a simple tools.

  The part number for the EOC is 316455410
  The part number for the overlay is 316220725

  You can view and order them by clicking on the part numbers.

  Keep me posted. Good luck.
  Gene.

• Frank // Feb 27, 2015 at 5:51 pm

  Hi Gene,

  You helped me back in November with a F10 error. I replaced the EOC and it has been fine for about 3 months and now is doing it again. I have an Electrolux model#EW30DF65GSB. It gives me the F10 error sporadically. Usually a few hours or so after it has been shut off.
  Could the EOC be bad again or is there something else I should look at?
  Thank you

• Gene // Mar 7, 2015 at 2:42 pm

  Hello Frank.
  Sorry for the delay.
  Sounds like the EOC has gone bad again. Sad news. But if you bought it from AppliancePartsPros.com then you can easy return the part for warranty exchange. Just call their customer service.

  Good luck. Please keep me posted.
  Gene.

• sergio // Mar 1, 2015 at 6:28 pm

  I keep getting a code f10 i replaced the eco on my oven.part 316455410 about three months.the problem was fix .now I have the same problem aging can someone tell me if I should replace it aging. Or why this part keeps damaging. .thank you

• Gene // Mar 7, 2015 at 2:35 pm

  Hello Sergio.
  Sorry for the delay.
  In order to provide most accurate advise I need the complete model number of the oven.
  Where did you get the EOC you replaced recently?

  Thank you,
  Gene.

• Glen Thompson // Mar 2, 2015 at 4:54 pm

  Hi Gene, my electric Frigidaire oven, Model CFEF3018LME, is throwing an F10 code intermittently. Once I cut power and reset it it seems to work, till it repeats. I decided to pull off the rear cover and take a peak and found a portion of the Oven Control Board was burnt/charred. My question is this, would that be the main culprit? Or do you think there may be more to the problem? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

• Gene // Mar 7, 2015 at 2:29 pm

  Hello Glen.
  Sorry for the delay.
  I don’t think anything else but EOC is the main culprit. No doubt about it and a new one would fix the problem. Also, if it would not and you ordered the part from AppliancePArtsPros.com, you can return it within 365 days.

  The part number for EOC is 316557115

  You may want to replace the overlay as well because the old one can be easy damaged.

  The part number for the overlay is 316419141

  You can order them by clicking on the part numbers.

  Good luck. Keep me posted please.

  Gene.

• John Usedom // Mar 5, 2015 at 5:58 am

  Gene,

  Hello and thank you for all you do. Your site has provided me with great info over the years. Today however, I am stumped.

  I have a Kenmore(whirlpool) Gas Dryer that will not kick on the burner. I’ve replaced the flame sensor and coils and when that did not do it, I also replaced the igniter.

  Everything looks perfect – the dryer starts, the igniter glows and then after 4-5 seconds it goes out. A minute later the igniter kicks on again, and then after a few seconds, goes off.

  I’ve checked the gas line, the fittings, the tube attached to the igniter, etc. and cannot get a flame – your thoughts please?

• Gene // Mar 7, 2015 at 2:07 pm

  Hello John.

  Sorry for the delay.
  In order to provide most accurate advise I need the complete model number of the dryer.
  Thank you.
  Gene.

• Ronni Echevarria // Mar 6, 2015 at 5:19 pm

  I have a GE profile 27″ double wall oven, about 6 mos. old. Today, it started showing “Err”, no error #, just “Err.” I am in convection roast mode. Looked online at the manual, but there is nothing addressing this issue. Any ideas?

• Gene // Mar 7, 2015 at 1:26 pm

  Hello Ronni.

  Thank you for your question.
  In order to provide most accurate advise I need the complete model number of the oven.
  Gene.

• Brian // Mar 7, 2015 at 12:19 pm

  I have a Whirlpool gas dryer. The Group A type. I have replaced the thermal fuse, the coils, the high temp thermostat and the cycle thermostat. The flame sensor checks ok. What happens is the flame either cuts out after 1-2 sec or never starts. If i remove the lint screen from the dryer it seem to work correctly. The flame starts and stays on. It is almost like the air flow is having a effect on the gas. I am thinking the gas valve is not opening all the way and the flame is getting blown out. Could it be the controller or the flame sensor.

  Thanks

• Gene // Mar 7, 2015 at 1:22 pm

  Hello Brian.
  Thank you for your question. You may want to start the troubleshooting from inspecting the lint screen. Make sure it is not rusted or restricted in any other way. If it is, the lint screen would need to be replaced.
  Unplug the dryer and pull it out of the wall. Remove the rear panel and the lint chute, also known as a blower housing and clean it inside. Put everything back together and give it a try.
  If you would need any part number, post the complete model number of the dryer.
  Good luck. Keep me posted please.
  Gene.

• Brian // Mar 7, 2015 at 6:16 pm

  Gene,

  The screen is ok and I did clean the lint chute. The air flow out the dryer seems fine.

  Thanks,

• Gene // Mar 8, 2015 at 1:16 pm

  Brian,

  Disconnect the vent hose from the dryer and run it.
  Let me know how it works.

  Thank you.
  Gene.
  P.S. The model number will help.

• Brian // Mar 8, 2015 at 9:51 pm

  Gene,

  We did disconnect the vent hose since day one, no luck. Today I tried to bypass the door switch to run it with door open the flame will stay on, then once put door closed the flame cut off.

  Model number LGC7848DQO

  Thanks,
  Brian

• Gene // Mar 15, 2015 at 7:38 pm

  Hello Brian,

  Running the dryer with open door does not have any sense because there is no air flow through the dryer at all.
  I would try to bypass the hi-limit thermostat and run the dryer for no longer than a minute. Uf the flame will stay on, just replace the hi-limit thermostat.

  The part number for the hi-limit thermostat is 279048

  Good luck.

  Gene.

• Frank // Mar 10, 2015 at 7:45 am

  Gene, Thank you for the advice. When I replace the EOC again do you think I need to be concerned with the Molex connectors for the temp probes on both ovens? I have seen many articles online about those connectors not being very good. What are your thoughts?

• Gene // Mar 15, 2015 at 7:23 pm

  Hello Frank,

  I do not think this is common with Frigidaire ovens. It happens very often with GE products. But it would not hurt if you will eliminate those plugs and splice the wires using a high temperature porcelain wire nuts.

  Gene.

• Richard // Mar 10, 2015 at 6:08 pm

  Gene, you mentioned “day time mode” under your error code p10 description. Could you please explain what this is. Thanks

  Rich

• Gene // Mar 15, 2015 at 7:17 pm

  Hello Richard,

  Thank you for your question.

  “Day time mode” means the oven is off and the clock shows only time of the day.

  Gene.

• Robert Wilson // Mar 11, 2015 at 5:18 pm

  Hi Gene,
  i have a frigidaire stove model cfef366emh , it has given me an error f11 , i did disconnect the power for a few minutes and plugged it back got the same error and now i also get another code f90 after a minute . Do i have just 1 problem or 2 problems, i am not sure what i need to order.
  Any help would be great, thank you.

• Gene // Mar 15, 2015 at 7:12 pm

  Hello Robert,

  Sorry for the delay.

  Most likely there is only one problem caused by the faulty EOC, but there is a very small chance for the latch motor to fail as well.
  To save time you may want to order both parts together. If you order them from AppliancePartsPros.com, you can return unneeded part later with full refund.

  The part number for the EOC is 316557115

  The part number for the latch motor assembly is 316464300

  Good luck.

  Gene.

• Rachel // Mar 14, 2015 at 8:14 am

  Hello,

  My range is showing F10 error code since this morning. I have a Frigidaire model FFGF3047LSF. Should I replace the EOC? or Is it something else that’s causing this problem?

  Thank you!

• Gene // Mar 15, 2015 at 6:56 pm

  Hello Rachel,

  Thank you for your question.
  If this error code has been shown while the oven was not cooking then the EOC would need to be replaced.

  The part number for the EOC is 316455410

  Good luck.

  Gene.

• Billy // Mar 17, 2015 at 12:20 pm

  Hello Gene, I have a Frigidaire electric oven. model #GLEF378ABC. Oven temp started to climb and would not shut off. Had a F10 error code. replaced EOC. Now the convection fan stays on and it throws a F30 error code. Replaced temp probe and same thing. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

• Gene // Mar 17, 2015 at 11:08 pm

  Hello Billy,

  Thank you for your question.

  When did you replace the EOC? What is the part number of the new EOC and where did you get from? Sounds like the EOC is the culprit.

  Gene.

• Brian // Mar 17, 2015 at 2:10 pm

  I have replaced the thermal fuse, the coils, the high temp thermostat and the cycle thermostat. I wondered why it is still not working. Any suggestions?

• Gene // Mar 17, 2015 at 11:21 pm

  Hello Brian,

  The problem with your dryer caused by restricted air flow. No doubt about it. Per your description, it works fine if you remove the lint screen. So I believe the lint screen is the culprit. I would suggest to clean it with a wire brush and some good cleaning solution, or just replace it.

  The part number for the lint screen is 349639

  Keep me posted.

  Gene.

• Mark Alford // Mar 17, 2015 at 3:47 pm

  I have a whirlpool gas dryer model WDG5600SQ0 ,the gas will ignite into a flame but burns out after a few minutes. Have replaced flame sensor , gas valve solenoid , all the fuses and thermostats check out with continuity. What else could it be maybe timer.
  Thanks
  Mark

• Gene // Mar 17, 2015 at 11:26 pm

  Hello Mark,

  Thank you for your question.

  The flame should not stay ON all the time. It’s cycling ON and OFF depending on the temperature inside the drum. It is normal for the flame to go OFF after a few minutes. So what exactly is wrong with your dryer?

  Gene.

• Mike Lang // Mar 17, 2015 at 6:40 pm

  Hi Gene,
  I have a Fridgeair Electrolux, Model PLEFZ398GCA. Recently I turned the oven on to bake and sparks shot out from behind. I removed the back upper panel and the bk/brl harness was fried. Have you came across situations similar to mine? If so, what would cause it to short? The EOC is burnt up at the plug end of the bk/brl harness. I am having trouble finding the part number for a new EOC and harness plug for the wires. Any help would be much appreciated.
  Thanks,
  Mike

• Gene // Mar 18, 2015 at 12:12 am

  Hello Mike,

  Thank you for your question.

  I’ve seen a few of them. Probably it was overheated due to current higher than it should be. May be a loose contacts too.

  The part number for the EOC is 316462809

  The part number for the main control wire harness is 316466603

  You can try to fix the burned plugs by cutting off the damaged pieces and splicing in 1/4″ female fully insulated quick disconnects. Radioshack would help.

  Good luck. Keep me posted.

  Gene.

• Crystal // Mar 17, 2015 at 7:45 pm

  Hello,

  I have a Frigidaire Model#FGF337ABJ. Is there a way to calibrate it?

• Gene // Mar 18, 2015 at 12:17 am

  Hello Crystal,

  Thank you for your question.

  What is wrong with the oven temperature and what is the difference between the set and actual temperatures?

  Gene.

• John Usedom // Mar 18, 2015 at 5:59 am

  Gene,

  Sorry for slow response – just noticed your 3/7 response this morning.

  We have a Kenmore – 110.77522600
  Ser MU2106873
  Type: DWJR-NAT-1206006-FM22

  Should have mentioned in original message that it had been sitting in storage for about 9 months.

  Original Message:

  Hello and thank you for all you do. Your site has provided me with great info over the years. Today however, I am stumped.
  I have a Kenmore(whirlpool) Gas Dryer that will not kick on the burner. I’ve replaced the flame sensor and coils and when that did not do it, I also replaced the igniter.
  Everything looks perfect – the dryer starts, the igniter glows and then after 4-5 seconds it goes out. A minute later the igniter kicks on again, and then after a few seconds, goes off.
  I’ve checked the gas line, the fittings, the tube attached to the igniter, etc. and cannot get a flame – your thoughts please?

• MML // Mar 26, 2015 at 7:17 am

  Hi Gene,
  I have an Electrolux 30″ Free Standing Electric Range; model EI30EF55GSA, serial VF80822824. The other night after I used the broiler, it started beeping and flashing the F10 code. None of the control panel would stop it, so we had to flip the breaker. When I used the oven the next day to heat taco shells, it got really hot (burnt them to chars!) and then the F10 code went off again- this time I was able to cancel it with the cancel button and turn off the oven.
  I checked the RTD probe out and it reads okay (1080 or so). So should my next step be to get a new EOC? I am confused if it’s the EOC or if there could be a problem with the oven relay board.
  instead.
  THanks!

• Gene // Mar 29, 2015 at 6:41 pm

  Hello MML,

  Sorry for the delay.

  In order to properly diagnose the problem you would need to unplug the range and pull it out of the wall. Remove the rear panel and locate two small power supply boards right next to the oven relay board. Unplug P1 connectors from both of the power supply boards and restore the power to the range. If the oven will continue to heat, the oven relay board would need to replaced. Otherwise the EOC is the culprit.

  The part number for the oven relay board is 316443920

  The part number for the EOC is 316576601

  Good luck.

  Keep me posted.

  Gene.

• roy // Mar 28, 2015 at 7:30 am

  i have a frigidaire stove model# pfef373es2 and it was flashing f11 so i replaced the eoc and worked for 1 day and it started flashing f11 again can you help thank you

• Gene // Mar 29, 2015 at 5:44 pm

  Hello Roy,

  Thank you for your question.

  The F11 error code means that control has sensed a shorted keypad. There is a separate membrane switch in your range which would need to be replaced in such situation. Unfortunately this part has been discontinued by the manufacturer and is no longer available.

  Looks like it’s time for a new range. Sorry for such sad news.

  Gene.

• Shannan // Mar 29, 2015 at 7:35 am

  Gene,
  I have frigidaire oven that keeps throwing error code f10. We have replaced the probe and it still is doing it. My model number is feb30s7fcb. I have been told two different things. One is an EOC and the other is an assembly control panel. Please help.

• Gene // Mar 29, 2015 at 5:25 pm

  Hello Shannan,

  Thank you for your question.

  This error code means that the control has sensed a runaway temperature. If it appears while the oven was in a day time mode, then the EOC has failed. No doubt about it. Especially because you already replaced the temperature probe. The only correction is to replace the EOC.

  The part number for the EOC is 316418523

  As of now the part is on back order. To find the ETA you can call AppliancePartsPros.com customer service at 877-477-7278.

  Good luck.

  Keep me posted.

  Gene.

• Steve // Mar 29, 2015 at 8:13 pm

  Hi, I have a frigidaire oven Model #FES355EBA , I am getting the F10 error only when oven is on, does not error when in day mode. What should I do?

• Gene // Apr 1, 2015 at 8:35 pm

  Hello Steve,

  Thank you for your question.

  You may want to start the troubleshooting from testing the temperature probe resistance. The normal reading at the room temperature suppose to be about 1100 Ohms. If the reading is incorrect, the temperature probe would need to be replaced. Otherwise the EOC is the culprit.

  The part number for the temperature probe is 316217002

  The part number for the EOC is 318414213

  Good luck.

  Keep me posted.

  Gene.

• MML // Mar 31, 2015 at 4:09 pm

  Hi Gene,
  Thanks so much for your reply. When we unplugged both of the P1 connectors and restored the power to the range the touchscreen was blank (no power), so I couldn’t turn the oven on to see if it would still overheat.
  We ordered both the parts, tried the EOC first, with no fix. Then when we started removing the relay board we found out it was fried (black soot). The relay board turned out to be the problem, and our oven is back in action for taco night:)
  One more question for you though. When we were changing out the EOC one of the ribbon connectors (that connects the EOC to the TST control panel) pulled apart. Some of the teeth came out of the little black plastic end cap. I managed to push them back into the cap, and we were able to reconnect it to the EOC board, but at least one of them broke off. All of the touch screen buttons still work, so should I be concerned? It was the larger ribbon connector on the right. When I searched for a part it appears you can’t just replace the ribbon connector, but have to replace the whole TST panel ($600!!). Ever had this problem?

  Thanks so much for your time and help!

• Gene // Apr 1, 2015 at 8:16 pm

  Hello MML,

  Sad news about that ribbon cable. I’m lucky because it did not happen to me, but I have heard about such problems.

  I can not tell you how long it will last but sooner or later it will die. You can get it from AppliancePartsPros.com for $558.91. It is a lot of money but the worst part of it is that usually manufacturers will stop to make them in a few years after they made such model. This particular control panel was designed for this model only. I do not think they will keep it available for more than five years since production started. Thus the question is : are you really like this range and going to keep it or you will replace it as soon as the control panel will die?

  Just in case you will decide to get new control panel, the part number for the control panel is 316538405

  Good luck.

  Gene.

• Judy // Mar 31, 2015 at 5:11 pm

  Hi Gene-

  Thank you so much for the time you put into helping folks with appliance issues! My range is possessed. I have spent lots of time researching my issue and can not find anyone else describing this particular problem. The range is beeping with the error code F11. Now that seems common, but here is where the strange part comes in, the beeping and error.
  code goes away immediately upon opening the oven door. I can push the button in that turns off the oven light and makes the oven think the door is closed, and it will immediately start beeping and showing F11 again.

  It is a Frigidaire Model # FFEF3048LS

  Any help appreciated!

• Gene // Apr 1, 2015 at 8:21 pm

  Hello Judy,

  Thank you for your good words!

  Most likely the problem is a faulty EOC. The new one should solve it.

  The part number for the EOC is 316557115

  Good luck.

  Keep me posted.

  Gene.

• John Usedom // Apr 1, 2015 at 2:56 pm

  Gene,

  Sorry to bother you again, but do you have any ideas on the Kenmore dryer situation I posted?

• Gene // Apr 1, 2015 at 7:40 pm

  Hello John,

  Sorry for the delay.

  It looks to me like this problem is related to restricted air flow. Disconnect the vent hose on the back of the dryer and give it a try. Make sure the lint screen is absolutely clean. You also may want to remove the rear panel and the blower wheel cover (lint chute) and clean it as well.

  How far and where the dryer vent goes? If it goes on top of the roof then it’s definitely needs good professional cleaning. If it goes through a wall, make sure the vent hood is not clogged.

  Let me know the result please.

  Gene.

• Ray // Apr 4, 2015 at 9:06 am

  Gene,

  I posted yesterday April 3, 2015 but the posting seemed to have disappeared.

  I have the same exact problem as John Usedom above in that a 1 and 1/2 year stored gas dryer is not flaming(Roper RGX3514PQ0).

  The igniter glows, the radiant sensor has continuity, the coil set has been changed (old ones were in resistance specs). The entire power circuit has continuity, the exhaust duct is disconnected.

  1. It just seems like the gas valve is internally stuck, would a shock tapping loosen it?

  2. Does the valve stems rise above the coils when in the open position?

  3. When the gas valve opens does it make a clicking sound?

  4. Is it possible that the radiant sensor is not opening to activate the coils?

  To John Usedom, did you get the situation sloved?

• Gene // Apr 5, 2015 at 10:23 pm

  Hello Ray,

  Thank you for your question.
  Somehow I missed your previous post. Sorry about that.

  1. I do not think any tapping will fix the problem.
  2. The answer is no.
  3. The clicking sound comes from a cycling thermostat. The gas valve does not make it.
  4. If the igniter goes off then the radiant sensor works properly.

  Based on your description, most likely the cause of the problem is a faulty gas valve. The gas valve is not serviceable and the only solution to fix this problem is to replace the gas valve. The new gas valve comes as assembly and you can order it from AppliancePartsPros.com for $180.31. Before you will make decision to fix it or to get a new dryer (the part is pretty expensive) I would suggest to verify the proper dryer connection to gas line and make sure the gas shut off valve behind the dryer is completely open.

  The part number for the gas valve assembly is 8318277

  Good luck.

  Keep me posted.

  Gene.

• Neil // Apr 4, 2015 at 11:09 am

  Hi Gene,

  I have read through all of the postings on this page however I am unable to figure out the issue with my oven. Frigidaire professional series FGFLMC55GCC The broiler automatically turns on by itself and I cannot turn it off without unplugging it. A code never flashed on the screen. After much reserach I purchased a new EOC part # 316462861 which arrived today and I immediately installed it. The clock turns on but will not allw me to adjust it and once again the broiler automatically turned on however this time the screen flassed the F11 error. I am lost as to how to proceed next as the touchpad was included with the new EOC?

  Thank you in advance!!

  Neil

• Gene // Apr 5, 2015 at 9:46 pm

  Hello Neil,

  Thank you for your question.

  Very likely the EOC you received is defective. It has to be exchanged under the part warranty. Contact the seller and request the replacement.

  You also may want to do the following troubleshooting:
  Unplug the range. Disconnect the broiler igniter wires and check for continuity between each wire coming to the igniter and the chassis. Both of them should read no continuity. If any of the readings is incorrect (any resistance other than infinity), trace that wire and let me know where it goes to. We will proceed further.

  Good luck and keep me posted.

  Gene.

• Leslie // Apr 4, 2015 at 3:40 pm

  Thanks for sharing, I’m going to try and fix it right now!!

• John Usedom // Apr 6, 2015 at 8:54 am

  Ray,

  Still no luck here and I can confirm that using “gentle persuasion” did not make any difference. Looks like were getting a new dryer as the part and shipping makes it about 50% of the cost of a new dryer.

  Thanks again for the info Gene and for your site.

• John // Apr 6, 2015 at 2:06 pm

  Hi Gene, I have a FGGF3054MF Frigidaire gallery stove, throwing the F11 code, can you tell me the part number of the keyboard I need, having trouble finding it.

• Gene // Apr 6, 2015 at 9:53 pm

  Hello John,

  Thank you for your question.

  There are no a separate keyboard or keypad on your range. The cause of this problem is a faulty EOC.

  The part number for the EOC is 316560118

  You can order it by clicking on the part number.

  Keep me posted.

  Good luck.

  Gene.

• Ray // Apr 7, 2015 at 7:24 am

  Point of information John,

  I located a “refurbished” gas valve where the seller says they replace the coils, and check under gas the operation of the valve at $70 with free shipping. Additionally I found a new valve for $150 with free shipping as opposed to the $180 above.

  I am looking at the possibility of jumping the door switch and activating the valve after heating with a heat gun to see if anything happens.

• Gene // Apr 7, 2015 at 12:57 pm

  Hello Ray,

  A refurbished gas valve sounds to me very suspicious. I would check the warranty before placing the order. More likely I will go with the new part for $150 but still verify the warranty first. With AppliancePartsPros.com, even paying more, you have 365 days for return.

  Using a heat gun on a gas part is absolutely bad idea.

  Gene.

• william // Apr 7, 2015 at 12:45 pm

  Hi Gene;

  We talked on phone today. Thank you for this option to diagnose. I have a combo in wall Kitchenaid SuperBa oven/microwave. Probably 15 years old or so. The oven no longer turns off and continues to heat. Only way to shut down is with breaker outside. My internet research points to control module or pad issues with the cancel/off button.

  The model of the oven is :KEMS377DBS6. I have seen replacement module from $400-600 online. Can you point me in the right direction? Should we replace the unit or do you think its time to get new oven?

  Also, I assume the module is pretty much plug and play….remove it and swap wires and plug in new module?

• Gene // Apr 7, 2015 at 1:27 pm

  Hello William,

  Thank you for your question.

  Most likely the cause of the problem is a power relay contacts welded together. All relays are integrated into the control board. Thus the solution is to replace the control board. The part is really expensive. You can order it from AppliancePartsPros.com for $451.08. A new 27″ oven/microwave combination will cost you over two grands + delivery and installation. I believe it’s better if the decision would be made by the chef.

  The part number for the control board is 4448869

  Keep me posted.

  Gene.

• John // Apr 7, 2015 at 2:06 pm

  Hi Gene, I pulled the EOC and the keypad is held on by double sided glue, it is a two piece. I pulled it off, are you sure you’re referring to the correct model?

• Gene // Apr 7, 2015 at 3:48 pm

  Hello John,

  This part is just a self-adhesive overlay. If you would like to replace it too, I need one more letter from the model number to get the correct part number for you. The part number for the EOC is correct.

  Gene.

• william // Apr 7, 2015 at 2:17 pm

  Thank you Gene for followup. Since appliance pros allows no-risk returns, I went ahead and purchased and will get my fingers dirty. Will let you know if that was the fix.

  Also, assume replacing this module not too technical… thanks

• John // Apr 7, 2015 at 3:52 pm

  When I unplug the ribbon from the EOC the F11 goes away and doesn’t beep anymore, can I get away with just replacing the overlay? And the last letter to the model is F.

• Gene // Apr 7, 2015 at 4:26 pm

  John,

  Per the model number you posted this is a simple overlay (piece of plastic) which does not have any ribbon cables connected to it.

  

  

  The part number for the overlay is 316419828

  Gene.

• John // Apr 8, 2015 at 7:28 am

  Here is the actual label on my stove.

  [IMG]http://i62.tinypic.com/4t7oyg.jpg[/IMG]

• Gene // Apr 8, 2015 at 2:04 pm

  Hello John,

  I did not question the model number you posted originally. The ribbon you mentioned earlier is a part of EOC and has nothing to do with the overlay (keypad). I understand your point but only replacement of the EOC would fix the problem.

  Gene.

• Linda // Apr 19, 2015 at 8:26 am

  Model #PLES399ECF
  Hi,
  I am getting an F30 code and my oven will not work but my stove top does and the wirereading is normal at 1100. What do I do nezt

• Gene // Apr 23, 2015 at 10:30 pm

  Hello Linda,

  Sorry for the delay.

  If you checked the temperature probe at the EOC plug then the EOC itself has failed and would need to be replaced.

  The part number for the EOC (aka a clock/timer) is 316418735

  Good luck.

  Gene.

• Bryan // Apr 19, 2015 at 9:56 am

  I have a Whirlpool gas Dryer GGW9200LW0. That fires up only when cold and then runs fine but no heat. I replaced the thermister about a year ago. I pulled apart the dryer and cleaned the lint etc. and exhaust line. (I do this once a year) my guess in order ..Gas Valve Coil Kit, igniter, flame sensor ? I ran diagnostic on control panel and It says 39 or maybe it means 3G

• Gene // Apr 23, 2015 at 10:21 pm

  Hello Bryan,

  Sorry for the delay.

  You are on the right track. Most likely the gas valve coil kit will fix the problem.

  The part number for the coil kit is 279834

  Good luck.

  Gene.

• Jeff // Apr 21, 2015 at 5:20 pm

  Ew30ew5cgs5 model number. Hi gene- I have a runnaway temp issue. Code f10. I have replaced the eoc and the temp sensor. My issue has not changed. The broiler element runs non stop. Is there a relay pack that I should be looking at? Thanks for your help

• Gene // Apr 23, 2015 at 10:12 pm

  Hello Jeff.

  Sorry for the delay.

  Yes, there is the power relay board which is located behind the oven rear panel. In order to access it you would need to remove the oven from the cabinet. This part is the culprit, no doubt about it. If you ordered the EOC and the temperature sensor from AppliancePartsPros. com then you can easy return them.

  The part number for the relay board is 316443918

  You can order the part by clicking on the part number.

  Good luck.

  Keep me posted.

  Gene.

• Valerie // Apr 22, 2015 at 8:30 am

  Hi Gene,
  My front left burner on my electrolux range has failed, but only the center burner, not the outer 2nd or 3rd rings. The serial number for my range is CEW30ef6gsc. Last time when I trouble shot myself, I ordered the wrong board, lol, but you helped me get the right one. So, is it the burner that I need to replace? I was surprised that on the inner ring quit working, is this typical?
  Thanks!
  Valerie

• Gene // Apr 23, 2015 at 9:43 pm

  Hello Valerie,

  Thank you for your question. I’m glad to help you again.

  Very likely the heating element for this burner would need to be replaced but, because the part is really expensive, you may want to check the central coil for continuity prior to order the new part. If there is no continuity, the heating element is the culprit.

  The part number for the triple heating element is 316216703

  Good luck.

  Keep me posted.

  Gene.

• Ed // Apr 23, 2015 at 6:03 am

  Hello Gene.

  I have a Frigidaire gas range model LFGF3014LWC. It is producing the F10 error code at room temperature/day time mode. I checked the RTD temperature probe at the plastic connector (1083 – 1100 ohms). I checked the other plastic connector (from the EOC side) and received above 1650 ohms. The EOC board was recently replaced (F10 went away after new board was installed, but now it is back).

  Can you suggest a fix for this? Thanks in advance!

  Ed

• Gene // Apr 23, 2015 at 9:29 pm

  Hello Ed,

  Thank you for your question.

  In such situation you may want to check the wires from the EOC to the temperature probe to make sure there is nothing wrong. I would recommend to eliminate the probe plastic connector and just splice the wires using a high temperature porcelain wire nuts. You can order them from AppliancePartsPros.com by clicking on the following link.

  The part number for the porcelain wire nuts (pack of 10) AP3440631

  Good luck.

  Keep me posted.

  Gene.

• Dave Williams // Apr 23, 2015 at 7:14 am

  Gene, My Kenmore 110-87873100 -78731 gas drier
  Runs and heats up for awhile then the machine shuts down. From reading posts I believe it is the gas valve coils can you let me know the part number that I need? Possibly where to buy one?

• Gene // Apr 23, 2015 at 9:06 pm

  Hello Dave.

  Thank you for your question.

  If the flame goes off and not reigniting while the igniter glows red, most likely the gas valve coils have failed.

  The part number for the coil kit is 279834

  You can order the kit from AppliancePartsPros.com by clicking on the part number.

  Keep me posted.

  Good luck.

  Gene.

• Valerie // Apr 24, 2015 at 7:00 am

  Hi Gene,
  I am having problems again and before I order on my diagnosis, I wanted your confirmation. My range is a CEW30ef6gsc. The front left burner has quit working but only the center burner, not the outer two rings. Is this the burner element? Why wouldn’t the whole burner quit?
  Thanks,
  Valerie

• Gene // Apr 24, 2015 at 8:35 pm

  Hello Valerie,

  The heating element for this burner has three separate coils, which can be turned on in a different ways, depending on settings provided by the consumer. Any of these coils are not serviceable. Thus if any of them failed, the whole heating element would need to be replaced.

  Gene.

  P.S. Valerie, you posted your first question on the front page: http://www.askgene.com/ and I replied on the same page. Here is my previous reply:
  “Hello Valerie,
  Thank you for your question. I’m glad to help you again.
  Very likely the heating element for this burner would need to be replaced but, because the part is really expensive, you may want to check the central coil for continuity prior to order the new part. If there is no continuity, the heating element is the culprit.
  The part number for the triple heating element is 316216703
  Good luck.”

• Ed // Apr 24, 2015 at 3:18 pm

  Hi Gene.

  Per your advice (regarding Frigidaire stove model LFGF3014LWC), I cut the plastic connectors off and spliced the wires together making sure that the violet wires from the EOC side matched the position of the white wires from the RTD temperature probe per the connector connections. I am still receiving the repeating F10 error code. The wires look OK (no visible external wear) from the plastic connector in the back of the EOC module down to the metal bracket holding the RTD temperature sensor into the back of the oven. I am unsure how to check every individual wire in the harness (if that is the suggested next step).

  What’s next?

  Thanks.

  Ed

• Gene // Apr 24, 2015 at 8:27 pm

  Hello Ed,

  You may want just to replace the wires from the temperature probe to the EOC. Cut off the wires at the plug which goes to the EOC, leaving about 3″ to 4″ to splice a new wires. Frigidaire does not sell such harness but you can find a similar wires in a local electric or hardware store.

  Good luck.

  Gene.

• Dirk // Apr 25, 2015 at 4:10 pm

  Hi Gene,

  I have a Frigidaire electric range model FEF366DSA and the broil and oven elements are not working but the surface elements all work. I washed the surface of the stove earlier today and when I turned the oven on it shot a flame out where the heat and condensation come out on top. The keypad would not stop beeping and flashed an F11 code. I disconnected the stove and plugged it back in, the broil and oven elements still do not work and they visibly appear fine. Thank you for your help.

• Gene // Apr 26, 2015 at 5:28 pm

  Hello Dirk,

  I’m afraid, while you have been washing the stove, some of cleaning liquid leaked inside the control panel and caused electric short to the control board (aka an EOC). In such situation the only solution is to replace the EOC. Inspect the overlay. It’s self-adhesive and if it can not be safely removed from the old EOC and properly attached to new part, you may want to order the overlay as well.

  The part number for the EOC is 316557115

  The part number for the white overlay is 316419104

  Good luck.

  Thank you for your question.

  Gene.

• Ed // Apr 27, 2015 at 11:01 am

  Hi Gene,

  Per your suggestion, I cut the 2 violet wires (the 2 running between the EOC and the RTD temperature sensor) and checked the resistance using the multimeter (received 0 which validates no break in the wire). Saves me a trip to the store to buy the wires.

  Any other suggestions? Thanks.

  Ed

• Gene // Apr 28, 2015 at 7:50 pm

  Hello Ed,

  Please redo the resistance test of the temperature probe at the EOC plug and let me know.

  Thank you,
  Gene.

• Kyle // Apr 27, 2015 at 5:23 pm

  Hi Gene,
  I have a Kenmore model 106.56179500 refrigerator that I replaced the ice maker in, and it still isn’t making ice. Water won’t even run into the tray. The LED is blinking twice then pauses. I checked the rubber tube and it is not frozen. Also I still have water to the door. Could this be the water control valve? Could I switch water lines to test this.

• Gene // May 4, 2015 at 8:59 pm

  Hello Kyle,

  Sorry for the delay.

  You may want to perform the following troubleshooting:

  1.Open the freezer door and watch the status LED on the right side. It should flash twice, pause for 1 second, and repeat the cycle for as long as the door is open.
  2.Close the flapper door on the emitter module (left side) so that the infrared beam has a clear path to the receiver board.
  3.Make sure that the door switch is not pushed in and the ice maker manual shut off slide
  is in the “ON” position, and view the status LED.

  If it’s not On steady, the optic boards would need to be replaced. If it is steady, let me know and we will proceed with further diagnostics.

  The part number for the optic boards set is w10757851

  Good luck.
  Gene.

• Willie // May 4, 2015 at 4:22 am

  Hi Gene,

  I have an old Kenmore LP gas dryer. It was heating for about 10-15 minutes but not enough to get the clothes dry. I just replaced the gas coils (279834) . and totally cleaned out the exhaust pipe and inside as far as lint goes. That seems to have helped.

  I also checked all the fuses and things on the back for continuity and they check out.

  But still it does not get the clothes dry during a regular cycle. The gas cycles on and off but at the end the clothes are still damp and I need to run a 20 minute touch up to get them dry.

  What do you suggest I try next?

  thanks so much,

  Willie in Maine

• Gene // May 4, 2015 at 8:30 pm

  Hello Willie in Maine,

  Thank you for your question.

  I would suggest to check the exhaust temperature during the cycle. Disconnect the vent hose from the dryer and put into the outlet pipe a simple food thermometer. Send me the results together with the model number of the dryer and temperature setting.

  Thank you,
  Gene.

• Rick // May 5, 2015 at 2:21 pm

  This is a great thread, and it almost solves my problem. I’m convinced that the radiant flame sensor is OK, so I want to replace the coils. The problem is that I can’t find coils for Sears M/N 110.87573110. The site I checked said that the coils you recommend can’t be used on my dryer. Are they really different? Please give me a solution other than an entire burner assembly.

• Gene // May 6, 2015 at 9:28 pm

  Hello Rick,

  Sorry for sad news. Unfortunately the gas valve coils used in your very old dryer have been discontinued long time ago and are no longer available. The only solution is to replace the whole gas valve assembly. It is expensive and I’m not sure if such old dryer is worth it.

  Gene.

• Ed // May 5, 2015 at 7:19 pm

  Hi Gene.

  Crazy last several days… Getting back to Frigidaire model LFGF3014LWC, I have the new wire harness and RTD oven temperature probe (installed this evening). Previously, a new EOC had been installed (and the ignitor – elements had cracked). Maybe worthy of note – I did not piece together everything (burners not screwed back in; metal piece covering the wires in back not screwed in).

  What should I focus on next? Do you know the name of a good shrink in the Northeast?

  Thanks.

  Ed

• Gene // May 6, 2015 at 9:35 pm

  Hi Ed,

  Put everything back together and give it a try. Let me know the result.

  When did you install a new EOC? What was wrong with the old one?

  Gene.

• Joe // May 5, 2015 at 9:30 pm

  Hi Gene,

  I have a Kenmore Gas Dryer – Model: 77832791 – 77832
  The flame stays on for 10 seconds and then goes out. I have changed the Solenoid Coils and the flame will light, but still goes out after 10 seconds. Then, a minute or two later the ignitor glows again and the flame starts, then, goes out after 10 seconds. I also ran the Dryer with the vent system disconnected. Cleaned the vent system reconnected it and still the flame goes out after 10 seconds.

  Any ideas..?? What do you suggest I try next?

  Thanks so much!

  Joe from Chicago

• Gene // May 6, 2015 at 9:50 pm

  Hello Joe,

  Thank you for your question.

  If there are no airflow restrictions, then possible the cause of the problem is a faulty hi-limit thermostat. Carefully bypass it and give it a try. Or just replace it. If you will by it from AppliancePartsPros.com and it would not fix the problem, you can easy return the part.

  The part number for the hi-limit thermostat is w10423382

  Good luck.

  Gene.

• Michele // May 7, 2015 at 7:38 am

  Hi Gene,

  I have a Frigidaire Gallery series, gas stove, Model Number #FGGF3076KB . I am getting a error code “F-95 ERR”. Appreciate any help!

  Michele

• Gene // May 10, 2015 at 9:56 pm

  Hello Michele,

  Sorry for the delay.

  The cause of this error code can be a faulty door lock assembly or a faulty EOC. Does the door lock motor run or not?

  Also the model number you sent is incomplete. There suppose to be one more letter at the end. Please verify it.

  Thank you,
  Gene.

• Sally Pilcher // May 7, 2015 at 8:52 am

  I have a Frigidaire Range Model #FGEF306TMW. When we set a temperature at say 350, it beeps between 25 to 50 degrees less (we used an oven thermometer for testing). This happens every time and we have used different oven thermometers in case one was defective. Can it be adjusted to have it beep in sync with the actual temperature set?

• Gene // May 10, 2015 at 9:44 pm

  Hello Sally,

  I’m sorry for the delay.

  The instructions on how to adjust the upper or lower oven temperature usually are in the Owner Guide. I found them for you:

  “Each oven temperature can be individually adjusted.

  To adjust the oven temperature higher
  1. Press UPPER OVEN or LOWER OVEN to select oven.
  2. Press BAKE for 6 seconds. “UPO 00” will appear in
  the display.
  3. To increase the temperature use the number pads to enter
  the desired change (Example 30°F) 3 0. The temperature
  may be increased as much as 35°F (19°C).
  4. Press START to accept the temperature change and the
  display will return to the time of day. Press CANCEL to
  reject the change if necessary.”

  If the temperature is out of range for more than 35°F, it can not be adjusted. In such situation the solution is to replace the Electronic Oven Control (EOC).

  The part number for the EOC is 316443865

  Good luck.

  Gene.

• Willie // May 8, 2015 at 6:48 am

  Hi Gener,

  I have found that if I set the timer 3 dashes past the ‘suggested dot’ on the dial it is drying. If this changes I will try your temp monitoring suggestion and be in touch. This is a great resource for saving money and helping us wean off the throw away consumer society.

  thanks,

  willie

• Joe // May 8, 2015 at 1:24 pm

  Hi Gene,

  Thanks for your reply. I replaced both the hi-limit thermostat and the Flame Sensor, as well as, the Solenoids Coils. I still have the same issue / problem. I have a Kenmore Gas Dryer – Model: 77832791 – 77832
  The flame stays on for 10 seconds and then goes out. I have changed the Solenoid Coils and the flame will light, but still goes out after 10 seconds. Then, a minute or two later the ignitor glows again and the flame starts, then, goes out after 10 seconds. I also ran the Dryer with the vent system disconnected. Cleaned the vent system reconnected it and still the flame goes out after 10 seconds.
  My Dad thinks it might be the Gas Valve.
  Dad thinks I should replace the gas valve assembly on the unit.
  What do you think…??

  Thanks,
  Joe

• Gene // May 10, 2015 at 9:16 pm

  Hi Joe,

  Possible the gas valve is the culprit and your Dad is on the right track. This part is expensive. That’s why I did not mention it yet. You can order the part from AppliancePartsPros.com and give it a try. If it would not solve the problem, you can return the part for the full refund.

  The part number for the gas valve assembly is 279923

  Thank you,
  Gene.

• mary // May 10, 2015 at 8:56 am

  Hi gene… I am having a problem with my he electric stove. My husband went and opened it up and cleaned everything out with contact cleaner well that killed the control panel for the oven and through an f7 code. We ordered a new control panel got that fixed but now realize that only 1 of 4 burners work… Its a flat top stove.. What could it be?? Model#j bp660 m4bb

• Gene // May 10, 2015 at 8:42 pm

  Hello Mary,

  Thank you for your question.

  The model number you sent , does not come up. Please verify and resend it. Also what is the part number of the control panel you replaced?

  Thank you,
  Gene.

• Michele // May 11, 2015 at 4:41 am

  Thank you, Gene for responding. I am getting this number directly from the oven , not the paperwork. FGGF3076KBK. The fan motor does work. I was not aware of a door lock (because I don’t see anything to slide) other than the “lock” symbol on the control panel that I’ve never used… Can you tell? (Smile)

  Thanks so much for any help.

• Gene // May 12, 2015 at 10:39 pm

  Hello Michele,

  More likely the problem is a faulty EOC because the error code came up when the door lock was not used.

  The part number for the EOC is 316562003

  The part is on back order. You may want to call AppliancePartsPros.com customer service at 1-877-477-7278 to find out the ETA.

  Thank you,
  Gene.

• Dan // May 12, 2015 at 4:03 pm

  I have a Roper gas dryer model RGD4400vq1, i have checked the cycling thermastat,the thermal fuse,high limit thermastat,thermal cutoff, and radiant sensor, all have continuity. I replaced the ignitor and coil packs and dryer still doesent heat. when you turn it on the flame comes on for about 10 sec then shuts off and it makes a wierd noise for about a min, then the flame comes back on and the noise goes away, then after about 10 sec it shuts off and the noise comes back. any help would be appreciated. Thank you

• Gene // May 12, 2015 at 10:19 pm

  Hello Dan,

  Sounds like the gas valve has failed. This part is not serviceable and would need to be replaced. The part is expensive. If you will decide to fix it, you may want to order the part from AppliancePartsPros.com by clicking on the part number below. You can return the part for the full refund if it would not solve the problem.

  The part number for the gas valve assembly is 8318277

  Thank you,
  Gene.

• SteveB // May 13, 2015 at 2:57 pm

  Hello we have a Frigidaire electric range model PLES389ECB
  it is showing an f30 code I have replaced both the probe and EOC. ($320 in parts) still no luck same F30 code??
  Any info would be great!

  Thank you in advance,
  Steve

• Gene // May 16, 2015 at 6:25 pm

  Hello SteveB,

  You may want to check the wires between the temperature probe and the EOC. Make sure there are no broken wires and all connections are tight and firm.

  Thank you.

  Gene.

• Lee Armstrong // May 14, 2015 at 4:19 pm

  I changed out the control panel and now no code but it clicks and the clock flashes also nothing is working on it

• Gene // May 16, 2015 at 6:28 pm

  Hello Lee.

  Make sure the control panel ribbon cable is plugged into the control board slot tight and firm.

  Thank you,
  Gene.

• greg // May 17, 2015 at 3:58 pm

  I got an f1 error code in the middle of baking in the oven. unplugged it overnight and it worked for about a week and a half and last night at 2am it came back. Now it wont let me set the clock to the right time. model plgf389cce Frigidaire professional series

• Gene // May 17, 2015 at 6:34 pm

  Hello Greg.

  Thank you for your question.

  This error code means a shorted/faulty keypad. In this model the keypad is a part of the EOC. The part with the key pads you see, is nothing else but the overlay which is glued to the EOC. The correction for this problem is to replace the EOC. You may want to order a new overlay if you would not be able to move the old one to the new EOC. It is self-adhesive.

  The part number for the EOC is 316207603

  The part number for the overlay is 316243301

  Good luck.

  Gene.

• christy // May 19, 2015 at 5:37 pm

  MY OVEN HAS A CODE ON IT THAT SAYS F10 AND I DONT KNOW WHAT TO DO TO FIX AND I WANT TO FIX IT. SO PLEASE WRITE ME BACK AND HELP ME!!!! THANK YOU AND HAVE A GREAT DAY!!! I REALLY NEED IT FIXED

• Gene // May 19, 2015 at 11:05 pm

  Hello Christy.

  Thank you for your question.

  In order to provide most accurate advise I need the complete model number of your oven.

  Thank you.
  Gene.

• Larry Smith // May 20, 2015 at 11:05 am

  Hi Gene,
  I have an F10 on a PLEB30s9dca Fridg. wall oven, following your directions I measured the sensor resistance which was 1077. does this fall with in the range of working resistance? Ambient temp was 70*F. Parts cat. shows clock/temp board, is this the EOC ?
  Thanks Larry

• Gene // May 20, 2015 at 3:07 pm

  Hello Larry.

  Thank you for your question.

  Yes, the temperature sensor tests OK. I do not know why but the manufacturer can call the same part with a few different names. So the EOC and clock/timer is the same part and looks like it would need to be replaced.

  The part number for the EOC is 316418720

  You can order the part by clicking on the part number.

  Thank you.

  Good luck.

  Gene.

• Damien Austin // May 22, 2015 at 3:17 pm

  Hi Gene,

  Hope you can help.

  I have an Electrolux double oven model EW30EW65GS1 that will not heat to full temp. If I set it at 350F and let it run it will take along time and only get to approx 270F . This is true of both top and bottom ovens on all settings, bake, broil and convection. I have replaced both the control board and relay board resulting in the same outcome. Oven was working fine before being removed from cabinet for a kitchen remodel. Everything else on oven works fine i.e. lights, fans etc. so after studying the schematic that would tell me that L1 and L2 and neutral are connected back up correctly. I am technically pretty smart but this one has me stumped. What is the common denominator here?

• Gene // May 23, 2015 at 4:40 pm

  Hello Damien.

  Thank you for your question.

  Remove the power to the oven by turning off the oven circuit breakers. Access the relay board and check the upper and lower ovens bake elements. Label the wires connected to the P1, P2, P9 and P10 terminals to assure proper reconnection and remove them. Check for continuity between the wires connected to P1 & P9 terminals. Then do the same for the wires connected to P2 & P10 terminals. If there is no continuity, remove the oven from the cabinet. Remove the rear panel for each oven. Locate the thermal switches (one for each oven) with a red button in the center of the switch. Remove the wires from the thermal switch terminals and check each switch for continuity. If there is no continuity, try to reset the switch by pushing the button. If it did not help, the thermal switch would need to be replaced. They both are identical with the same part number.

  The part number for the thermal switch is 318004902

  Good luck.

  Keep me posted.

  Gene.

• Damien Austin // May 25, 2015 at 5:26 pm

  Update,

  Did what you said and got continuity (15-25 ohms) across all six elements top and bottom oven measuring at the relay board, so at this point I know the thermal cutouts are good. Studied the schematic a little more and took voltage measurements across one element while powered on and got 120v, should be 240v. I did measure 240v on the relay board but it was across one leg to neutral. Long story short, I checked my wire connections at the jbox on wall and found the neutral connected to one leg of the 240v. The wires running from breaker box to the jbox consist of a ground and three black wires, no white. One of the black wires was being used as a neutral and I had connected it to the wrong black wire. Looking back I should have confirmed which black wire was L1, L2 and neutral before making the connection.

  Thanks for the help!

  Damien.

• Gene // May 27, 2015 at 4:30 pm

  Hello Damien.

  I’m gad you were able to find and fix the problem. Good job!

  Thank you for the feed back.

  Gene.

• Tracy Smith // Jun 2, 2015 at 10:25 am

  Hi Gene,

  I have a GE Spectra convection oven. I convection-baked at 450F this morning and on turning off the oven it began non-stop beeping while displaying “FO”.

  I immediately began looking online for what to do and came across a suggestion of pressing “BAKE” and “BROIL” buttons simultaneously for 3 seconds. The panel buttons were unresponsive.

  I went back to my computer to search for help again and was away from the oven for several minutes. When I returned it was displaying “F7” rather than “FO” so I tried the buttons again and BAKE/BROIL at same time worked to stop the beeping.

  I believe it’s probably a control panel problem but only guess that from what I had read. The model # is J B960T0B1WW.

  My husband said we should probably just scrap it and buy a new oven but if you have advice that might be less expensive I’m eager to hear it.

  Thank you so much!
  Tracy

• Gene // Jun 2, 2015 at 5:19 pm

  Hello Tracy.

  Thank you for your question.

  If this “F7” failure code can not be canceled by pressing the “Clear Off” button, then most likely the ERC would need to be replaced.

  The part number for the ERC is wb27t10216

  You can order the part by clicking on the part number.

  Good luck.
  Gene.

• Tracy Smith // Jun 2, 2015 at 5:34 pm

  Thank you Gene!

  Your advice is so thorough and helpful!!!

  Best, Tracy

• Ray // Jun 2, 2015 at 6:12 pm

  Hi Gene,

  I have an ice making problem. My KitchenAid Mod#KSRG25FKSS04, is getting no power to the ice maker. I changed the ice maker and dual water valves before I realized it’s getting no power at the ice maker harness. Any ideas what may be causing this?

  Thanks for your help,
  Ray

• Gene // Jun 3, 2015 at 3:19 pm

  Hello Ray.

  Thank you for your question.

  Open the freezer door and watch the status LED on the left side. It should flash twice, pause for 1 second, and repeat the cycle for as long as the door is open. Then close the flapper door on the left side. The status LED should be on steady. If it’s still flashing, the optic PC boards would need to be replaced.

  The part number for the optic PC boards kit is w10757851

  Good luck.

  Gene.

• Kirsten Flumerfelt // Jun 2, 2015 at 9:49 pm

  Can I still bake in the oven with this error flashing? I was in the middle of baking a cake!

• Gene // Jun 3, 2015 at 3:25 pm

  Hello Kirsten.

  I do not think you can do it because the oven functions should be disabled. The cause of the problem should diagnosed and fixed. The complete model number of the oven can help.

  Gene.

• Ray // Jun 3, 2015 at 4:21 pm

  Gene,

  Yes, the status LED is working normally 2 flashes repeated and on steady when uninterrupted.

  What’s next?

  Thanks,

  Ray

• Gene // Jun 3, 2015 at 5:05 pm

  Ray,

  You said:”I realized it’s getting no power at the ice maker harness”. How did you find it?

  Gene.

• Ray // Jun 3, 2015 at 5:13 pm

  Gene,

  Thanks for the quick response!

  I checked the harness coming out of the interior freezer wall with a voltage meter. I made sure light switch and ice fill door were in steady light beam mode when I checked. I also checked for power in every two wire configuration. No power to harness.

  Ray

• Gene // Jun 3, 2015 at 6:21 pm

  Ray,

  Unplug the refrigerator. Pull out both optic PC boards. Remove the black and yellow wires connected to the receiver (large board) terminals and the white wire connected to the emitter (small board) terminal. Make sure no one wire is touching each other or anything else. Restore the power to the refrigerator. Open the freezer door and tape in the light switch. Tape in the flapper door. Close the freezer door for at least 10 sec. Open the freezer door and check the voltage between the white & black wires. Then check the voltage between the yellow and white wires. Send me the results please.

  Gene.

• Ray // Jun 4, 2015 at 9:20 am

  Gene,

  I did as instructed. Voltage between white and black wires is 120VAC. The voltage between yellow and white is 0, nothing.

  An interesting observation. The large optic board had a small black soot mark just below where the wiring harness contacts are on the board itself. Also the interior wall of the freezer, where large optic board rests, had a black soot/burn mark on it also. Maybe something burned out on the large optic board?

  Ray

• Gene // Jun 6, 2015 at 3:26 pm

  Hi Ray,

  Sorry for the delay.

  The black marks on the optic board are very suspicious. I would suggest to replace it. Both boards are coming as the kit. The part number for the kit I provided earlier.

  Zero voltage between the yellow and white wires while the light switch was taped in close position, shows that the light switch has failed. It would need to be replaced as well.

  The part number for the light switch is 12466114

  Good luck.

  Keep me updated please.

  Gene.

• Mike // Jun 6, 2015 at 7:05 pm

  Hi Gene,

  I have a PLES389ECE showing F30. I was wondering if there is anything that I can test or diagnose from the front, without pulling the oven out from the wall? If not, I understand that it is likely either the thermometer or the panel. How hard is the panel to replace? Is it something that an amateur could easily do?

  Thanks!

  Mike

• Gene // Jun 6, 2015 at 10:30 pm

  Hello Mike,

  Thank you for your question.

  You may want to start the troubleshooting from checking the temperature probe for continuity, using a multimeter. The best way to do it is to pull the range out of the wall.

  Remove the power to the range by turning off the corresponding circuit breakers prior to do any job. Remove the range rear panel and disconnect the probe plug. Check for continuity between the two probe wires. The normal reading suppose to be about 1100 Ohms. If the reading is incorrect, the temperature probe would need to be replaced. At the same time make sure the wire harness from the probe to the control panel is not damaged.

  The part number for the temperature probe is 316217002

  Otherwise the EOC would need to be replaced.

  The part number for the EOC is 316418735

  To order a part just click on the part number.

  The complete instructions on how to access the EOC you can find by clicking on the following links. You have to click on every one of them.

  https://www.dropbox.com/s/afvfo1xuvvrlsef/Electric%20slide-in%20range%20-%20control%20panel%20and%20EOC%20removal%20part%201.doc?dl=0

  https://www.dropbox.com/s/uyrdx536z25aege/Electric%20slide-in%20range%20-%20control%20panel%20and%20EOC%20removal%20part%202.doc?dl=0

  https://www.dropbox.com/s/ntcglkxlq82agdk/Electric%20slide-in%20range%20-%20control%20panel%20and%20EOC%20removal%20part%203.doc?dl=0

  Keep me updated.

  Good luck.

  Gene.

• Ray // Jun 7, 2015 at 11:15 am

  Gene,

  I ordered the optic board kit the day I found the burn marks and it arrived yesterday. I installed the boards last night and this morning I had ice!

  I need to adjust the water flow to completely fill the ice maker but other than that, you did it! Thank you so very much for your help and advice.

  A note to others who may find themselves in the same situation; check the ohms across the valve terminals on the back of fridge. One of mine was showing zero, had to replace it, check the optic board circuitry visually! Mine showed the correct steady red light and 2 flashes per second yet was no good and visually burned out.

  Gene, as for the light switch, the light goes on and off in the freezer and the ice maker is now working. Should I bother with changing the switch? What would I see if it is indeed burned out?

  Thank you again,

  Ray

• Gene // Jun 18, 2015 at 2:49 pm

  Hi Ray,

  Sorry for the delay.

  I’m glad you were able to fix it. Good job!

  Do not worry about the light switch if it’s working normally.

  Thank you for your good words and the feedback.

  Best regards,
  Gene.

• Barry // Jun 12, 2015 at 10:25 pm

  Hi, Gene,

  I have a Kitchenaid KSF26C4XYY02 refrigerator. Two to three months back, the ice maker stopped working. The water dispenser still worked fine. The ice maker LED shows no status lights at all now–none when door is opened, ice bin is lowered, etc. I’m assuming I either need to replace the whole ice maker or get a motor rebuild kit?

  More recently, the refrigerator side has started running very cold, freezing nearly everything solid. Nothing significant has changed with the fridge. It is not overly full, nothing blocking back edge or upper vents and do forth. Does this sound like a faulty thermistor?

  Please advise.

  Thanks,

  Barry

• Gene // Jun 18, 2015 at 4:16 pm

  Hello Barry,

  Sorry for the delay.

  If you still having this problem with the ice maker, please redo the test.

  Open the freezer door and view the status LED. If it’s off, press in the emitter flapper door and view the LED again. If it’s still off, the receiver board would need to be replaced. If it pulses on and off, both receiver and emitter boards would need to be replaced.

  The part number for the receiver board is w10518658

  The part number for the emitter board is w10518659

  In regards of the refrigerator temperature problem you will need to run the refrigerator in service diagnostic mode (first 7 steps) as described it the tech sheet which can be found behind the bottom grille. Let me know the results and we will proceed further. If the tech sheet is missing, let me know and I”ll provide the instructions for you.

  Good luck.

  Thank you for your question.

  Gene.

• James // Jun 14, 2015 at 2:10 pm

  Gene, I hope you can help me. I have a kitchen aid model kgrs807sss00, range. My bake nor broil does not work. I recently replaced both igniters, and it worked intermittently for a day. Now nothing again. I have 0.9 ohms on the new igniters, 0 ohms of resistance on the thermal fuse, and 204 oms of resistance on both solonoids of the gas supply safety switch. I saw online you said there should be 216 ohms on both sides. Would this be my problem? I cannot access my spark module easily so I wanted to ask you first before I attempt the spark module test.

• Gene // Jun 18, 2015 at 4:29 pm

  Hello James.

  Sorry for the delay.

  In order to provide most accurate advice I need you to answer on a few more questions. Unplug the range for a few minutes. Plug it back and wait 2-3 minutes. Turn on any surface burner.

  Did it ignite and light properly?

  Turn the oven on bake?

  Can you here a clicking sound?

  Turn the oven on broil.

  Did it click?

  Thank you.

  Gene.

• Denise // Jun 15, 2015 at 1:38 pm

  Hi, Gene,

  I have a PLEs39ECG, serial NF73726 that gives me an error F30. I have replaced the EOC and the RTD, and still get the error code, what else could it be :(?

• Gene // Jun 18, 2015 at 4:36 pm

  Hello Denise.

  Thank you for your question.

  You may want to check the wires and plugs between the RTD and the EOC. The model number you submitted does not come up. Please verify it.

  If there is nothing wrong with the wires, send me the part numbers for the EOC and RTD you replaced.

  Thank you.

  Gene.

• Connie // Jun 17, 2015 at 5:22 am

  Have a GLES389ESD Frigidaire Slide in stove. Several months ago, the door started popping open (enough to turn the light on) and I’ve had to prop it closed with something while in use and until it cooled and the light went out. Any suggestions?

• Gene // Jun 18, 2015 at 4:49 pm

  Hello Connie.

  Thank you for your question.

  Possible there is something wrong with the oven door hinges. Remove the oven door as instructed in the Owner Guide and inspect both hinges. Even if only one is bad, they both would need to be replaced. They are identical.

  The part number for the door hinge is 318024749

  Good luck.

  Gene.

• Barry // Jun 20, 2015 at 3:30 pm

  Hi, Gene,

  Not long after my last post, I located the aforementioned tech sheets. They were, in fact, behind the bottom grill, as you mentioned. I just didn’t realize they were in the _back_ of the grill 🙂

  So, I was able to perform the first seven steps of the diagnostic procedures, as requested. The results are as follows:

  Refrigerator Diagnostic Statuses

  Step | Component | Status
  1 | FC thermistor | 01 = Pass
  2 | RC thermistor | 01 = Pass
  3 | Evaporator fan motor and Air baffle motor | 01 = Fan ON. Air baffle is open, 02 = Fan ON. Air Baffle is closed, 01, etc., cycling every 3-5 seconds
  4 | Compressor/Condenser Fan Motor | 01 = ON
  5 | N/A
  6 | Defrost heater/Bi-metal | 01 = Bimetal Closed
  7 | Defrost Mode | 01 = ADC ON

  Please let me know if you need any more information to diagnose the issue.

  Thanks again for your help.

  Barry

• bessie // Jul 5, 2015 at 3:00 pm

  Hello Gene I have a frigdaire stove thats flashes f10 it wasnt on the weather was bad tve lights went off when the electricity came back on the lights was flashing f10 on the oven. Its new just bought it havent had it 2 months.

• Gene // Jul 9, 2015 at 2:26 pm

  Hello, Bessie.

  Possible the EOC has failed. Your stove is new and suppose to be covered under manufacturer warranty. I would suggest to call Frigidaire for service. I would not tell them it happened due to bad weather.

  Good luck.

  Gene.

• frank // Jul 8, 2015 at 12:56 pm

  Need help on customer’s GE washer WJRE5550K2WW Keeps going through rinse cycle won’t go to spin light on motor steady (one sec. on 1 off) tried field serv mode but can’t get to knob pos 2,3 etc. any help?? tonerman2010@aol.com

• Gene // Jul 9, 2015 at 12:52 pm

  Hello Frank.

  Sorry for the delay.

  Very likely the control board has failed.

  The part number for the control board is wh12x10439

  Thank you.

  Gene.

• Barry // Jul 9, 2015 at 1:08 pm

  Hi, Gene,

  Sorry to bug you again. I’m still waiting for a response to my most recent post above.

  Thanks for your time.

  Barry

• Gene // Jul 9, 2015 at 2:21 pm

  Hi, Barry.

  Sorry, somehow I missed your last reply.

  Very likely the problem is a broken door inside the air diffuser (damper). Air baffle motor tests OK, but the door can be failed open. The only way how to figure it out is to remove the air diffuser (damper) and inspect the door. If it’s dislodged or broken, the air diffuser would need to be replaced.

  1. Disconnect power to the refrigerator.
  2. Open the water filter door and remove the filter.
  3. Open the air filter door and remove the filter.
  4. Remove the ¼” screw securing the air damper cover to the cabinet.
  5. Remove the air damper cover.
  6. Remove the ¼” screw securing the air filter housing to the cabinet and remove.
  7. Disconnect the wiring harness and remove the air damper assembly.

  The part number for the air diffuser is w10699909

  Good luck.

  Gene.

• Brian // Jul 9, 2015 at 7:02 pm

  I have a Kenmore 80 series gas dryer. The dryer turns on and the drum turns but there is no heat. I don’t see the igniter glowing when it’s on and I don’t smell gas. Is it the fuse, igniter, or coils? Or something else. Thanks,

  Brian

• Gene // Jul 9, 2015 at 10:59 pm

  Hello, Brian.

  Thank you for your question.

  Possible the thermal fuse has blown.

  In order to provide most accurate advice I need the complete model number of the dryer.

  Gene.

• Brian // Jul 10, 2015 at 6:38 am

  Model 110.74842400
  Serial MR2603157
  Type: DWSR-NAT-1206006-CV22
  Kenmore 80 series gas dryer

• Gene // Jul 10, 2015 at 10:54 pm

  Hello, Brian.

  Thank you for the model number you provided.

  Unplug the dryer. Check the thermal fuse for continuity as described in the step 1 of the article.

  If the thermal fuse is open, it would need to be replaced as well as the cycling thermostat. You also may want to clean the dryer vent line.

  The part number for the thermal fuse is 3392519

  The part number for the cycling thermostat is 3387134

  Good luck.

  Gene.

• Jeff // Jul 17, 2015 at 2:59 pm

  Hi i’m having a problem with my Frigidaire oven professional series model number PLES389ECH I’ve followed your assessment steps with the following findings removed the front cover containing the EOC , I tested the two purple wires that lead to the pro while still connected to the EOC I got a reading of 1027 I then followed up with a test of the problem itself while still connected and got a reading of 1100 I then removed the probe and tested the probe itself between the two pins and got 1100, is there anything to test before spending the 200.+ for the EOC .

• Jeff // Jul 17, 2015 at 3:03 pm

  Sorry I forgot to tell you the problem came after a power surge and the only operations that work on the oven are the top four burners the oven and Clock do not respond and received the F 30 code

• Gene // Jul 19, 2015 at 9:41 pm

  Hello Jeff.

  Unfortunately the only solution to fix it is to replace the EOC.

  The part number for the EOC is 316418735

  Good luck.

  Gene.

• Phil // Jul 19, 2015 at 5:38 pm

  Hi Gene,

  We have a Frigidaire slide in stove/oven model no: CGES387AS5.

  The oven was working fine until in the last couple of days the PF code would come on after the oven had been on for a while. We could, at that time, reset it and turn the oven back on.

  The problem has worsened as now the PF code will come up whenever the oven (bake/broil) is selected. The stove top and the clock work fine once we clear the PF code.

  Any assistance is much appreciated.

  Phil.

• Gene // Jul 19, 2015 at 9:49 pm

  Hello Phil.

  The correction for this problem is to replace the EOC. Unfortunately this part has been discontinued and is no longer available. Sounds like it’s time for new range.

  The part number for the EOC is 318183602

  Gene.

• Barry // Jul 23, 2015 at 8:57 pm

  Hi, Gene,

  Well, you were dead-on relative to the air diffuser (damper). When I went to remove the old one, a couple of broken pieces fell out of the unit, including a very thin spring which was now in two parts. Once the new diffuser was in place, though, all is well on the fridge side. Thanks so much.

  The ice maker is a bit of a different story at this point. I did replace the receiver board as suggested. Initially, the LED on the board lit up and blinked–looked promising. However, after everything was buttoned up, the unit produced no ice. I even gave it a few days, in case things had been frozen up due to the fridge side overcooling. However, even now, many days later, still no ice. Any recommendations as to where to look next?

  Thanks again for all your help.

  Barry

• Barry // Jul 31, 2015 at 8:40 pm

  Gene,

  A bit of additional information regarding the icemaker: After a few more days have passed, the unit has produced one shallow batch of ice cubes. However, that is all it has done. No other ice yielded.

  Please advise as to next steps when you next have a moment. Thanks much! 🙂

  Barry

• Tasha // Aug 2, 2015 at 8:13 pm

  GE wall oven F2 error

  Any advice. We kept getting an F2 error code we did check the ohm meter and it seemed fine but we chose to just replace the sensor. Oven seemed to be fixed. We just tried to use oven and now it will not heat. You select temp and it beeps right away trying to say it reached temperature but it never even heated above room temperature. Please help. I’m a mom who is prettygood with electronics and can take just about any appliance apart. Don’t know if I just need to buy a new oven.

• Tasha // Aug 2, 2015 at 8:17 pm

  Forgot to mention now there is no error code that flashes. You select the temp it beeps that it is there and then after 5-10 minutes it just shuts off.

• Gene // Aug 5, 2015 at 9:35 pm

  Hello Tasha,

  Thank you for your question.
  In order to provide most accurate advice I need the complete model number of the oven.

  Gene.

• Leland // Aug 25, 2015 at 7:55 pm

  Hi Gene.

  Thank you for your advise and helpful responses on APP forum. I’m been unsuccessful at diagnosing my problem and hoping you can provide some additional guidance.

  I have a GE PSS25NGNAWW side by side refrigerator freezer and fridge temps are increasing and not going back down to their set values. There is frost all over the evaporator coils.

  Continuity Tests:
  – J9 to J7 pin 9 = 0 ohms on 20 ohm scale
  – J1 pin 4 and 5 = 0 ohms on 20K and 200K scale
  – J1 pin 3 and 5 = 0 ohms on 20K and 200K scale
  – across the defrost heater = 0 ohms on 20 ohm scale
  – defrost thermostat – 0 ohms in ice water and out (below 70 degrees air)

  From the service manual, self diagnostic tests:
  – 0-7 shows all 5 thermistors passed
  – 1-4 defrost test does not appear to have melted any frost (door was closed for 5 minutes after test initiated).

  With J9 unplugged and J7 unplugged, and the refrigrator plugged in, VAC across the J9 pin and the J7 9 pin was 0 Volts.

  What are my next steps?

• Leland // Aug 25, 2015 at 7:58 pm

  clarification:
  continuity tests were not on the pins on the main board but across the wires on the connectors.

  The VAC test was done across the pins on the main board.

• tom // Sep 2, 2015 at 11:48 am

  Gene, I have an Frigidaire electric wall oven model FEB27S6FCB which has given me an F10 error code. Also the broiler coil came on but the unit was not in broil but bake. Any ideas. Enjoyed reading your help to other people. thank you….tom

• Gene // Sep 7, 2015 at 9:32 pm

  Hi Tom,

  Thank you for your question.

  In situation you described most likely the EOC has failed and would need to be replaced.

  The part number for the EOC is 316418521

  Good luck.

  Gene.

• Jay // Sep 2, 2015 at 11:53 am

  Gene,

  I have a Frigidaire FEF368gba with F10 code coming up. It is just run away heat. Melted the teflon off a baking pan.

  Thanks,

• Gene // Sep 7, 2015 at 9:26 pm

  Hi Jay,

  Thank you for your question.

  If this error code shown while the oven was in day time mode, the EOC would need to be replaced.

  The part number for the EOC is 316557115
  You also may want to replace the overlay.
  The overlay part number is 316419103

  If it happened while the oven was in cooking mode, start the troubleshooting from testing the temperature probe for continuity as described in the article

  If it would not pass the test, the temperature probe will need to be replaced.
  The part number for the temperature probe is 316490000

  Good luck.

  Gene.

• Paula Albers // Sep 3, 2015 at 6:17 pm

  I have a GE TrueTemp Oven, it came with the house so it is most likely 2002. While cooking, it gave me an F2 code and would not shut off at all. I had to flip the breaker just to shut down the oven. We replaced the temperature sensor. Used the over 3 times and it’s throwing the f2 code and running away again, had to flip the breaker to shut it down. Any suggestions?

• Gene // Sep 6, 2015 at 9:37 pm

  Hello Paula,

  Thank you for your question.

  Sounds like the problem is a faulty control board.

  If you need the correct part number, the complete model number of the oven might help.

  Gene.

• Max // Sep 3, 2015 at 6:35 pm

  Hi Gene! Damn you are a pro!
  I have a quick question you may be able to answer. I have a frigidaire oven model FGF379WJC, and when I select any button on the oven control panel it displays, “OFF”. This seems to have happened randomly after years of fine operation. My manual and the internet are no help… Do you know what this means?
  Much appreciated,
  Max

• Gene // Sep 6, 2015 at 9:34 pm

  Hi Max,

  Quick answer on quick question. The cause of this problem most likely is a faulty EOC. Unfortunately (fortunately for your wife =-D) this part has been discontinued and is no longer available.

  Looks like it’s time for a new range.

  Good luck.

  Gene.

• Leland // Sep 5, 2015 at 12:17 pm

  I replaced the main board:

  VAC across J9 pin and J7-9 pin was 119 VAC
  VAC across J8 pin and J7-9 pin was 118 VAC
  VAC across J11 pin and J7-9 pin was 1.5 VAC

  Not sure why the J11 Line and J7-9 Common is only 1.5 volts but it appears the board is producing 120VAC needed for the heater.

  Not sure if I need to replace thermistors since their was no resistance across the wires even thought he 1-4 diagnostic shows all 5 thermistors passed.

  Thanks in advance for any help you can provide.

• Gene // Sep 6, 2015 at 9:06 pm

  Hi Leland,

  Thank you for your question.

  How the refrigerator is doing now?

  I hope the new control board fixed the problem. I do not think anything wrong is with the thermistors. I’m afraid you did not do the continuity tests in right way.

  Gene.

• Jeff // Sep 6, 2015 at 1:42 pm

  Gene I have a ge artica refrigerator pss29mgmb freezer will not go below 60 ran a diagnostic test on it falls the freezer thermistor 05 is the code, replaced the thermistor still gets the error code check the low voltage at pin J1-5 and J4-3 5 volts there the J1 pins all have various voltages but not quite what they are suppose to be J1 pin 1 1.61 volts, pin 2 1.62 volts, pin 3 1.98 volts, pin 4 1.70 volts compressor is running and ice forms on the first pay off the evaporator. Any suggestions. The trouble shooting tree says to check for continuity but how do you do that

• Gene // Sep 6, 2015 at 8:44 pm

  Hello Jeff,

  If the main control board reeds the freezer thermistor as not functional, even the thermistor has been just replaced, then very likely the main control board itself has failed. In such situation you may want to install a new control board and give it a try. If you will order the part from AppliancePArtsPros.com and it would not fix the problem, you can easy return it with full refund.

  The part number for the main control board is wr55x10942

  Thank you for your question.

  Good luck.

  Gene.

• Valerie // Sep 7, 2015 at 8:00 am

  Hello again Gene!
  Well, it was almost a year to the date. We have had another electrical issue with our range CEW30EF6GSC. This time the relay board will likely need to be replaced again but where last time the fault was visibly on the board, this time the burn was on the pins of board connector between the wire and the board. Specifically the orange wire on the connector adjacent to the only non square or rectangular black component on the board. My questions:
  1. what are the connectors called and where can you purchase them?
  2. this is the 2nd time in 380 days that we are replacing the relay board. The relay board is obviously much cheaper than replacing the range and I hate the environmental component contributing to a landfill but at what point do you throw in the towel on the range and/or consider it a fire hazard? I can’t help but worry there is a bigger issue, this time this was NOT relatively close to a self clean, which I have read can be a cause of electrical issues, your thoughts?
  3. If I should replace the range, is this a common and eventual issue with all electric ranges and the electronics on them? Or should a person stay away from Electrolux?
  Thanks again for all your time and help!!
  Valerie

• Gene // Sep 7, 2015 at 9:06 pm

  Hello Valerie,

  Thank you for your question.

  How did you fix the problem back in April? What was wrong at that time?

  Gene.

• Barry // Sep 7, 2015 at 1:34 pm

  Hi, Gene,

  I figured I would update this thread with my latest experience. As it turns out, some three to four weeks after I had replaced the icemaker’s receiver board, the icemaker finally started producing ice regularly and in great abundance! Early on, given that the fridge had been running very cold and freezing everything, I had wondered whether the water line to the icemaker had been frozen and then needed time to thaw. I don’t know if this was the solution ultimately. However, this was one rare case where leaving something alone actually caused it to fix itself!

  Thanks again for all your help.

  Barry

• Gene // Sep 7, 2015 at 8:56 pm

  Hi Barry,

  You are welcome.

  I’m glad your refrigerator is back in business and all problems gone.

  Thank you for the feedback.

  Gene.

• Jack // Sep 8, 2015 at 3:20 pm

  Fridgidaire Mode FEFL78CBA, fault code 1, display controls function however oven not working. Daughter had a pizza in oven and she heard a CRACK. Door would not release, funny smell, threw circuit breakers. Next morning, (when I got home, circuit breakers were reset, door on stove now released. BUT oven not heating up. Do you think it is the temp probe or EOC??

• Gene // Sep 14, 2015 at 6:59 pm

  Hello Jack,

  Sorry for the delay.

  Most likely the problem is a faulty EOC.
  The part number for the EOC is 316207529

  Thank you for your question.

  Good luck.

  Gene.

• Becque Ford // Sep 10, 2015 at 7:47 am

  Hi Gene! I have a Frigidaire range, model #PLEF398DCH.
  Codes flashing are F 7 and 20. What does this mean please?

• Gene // Sep 14, 2015 at 6:48 pm

  Hello Becque Ford,

  Thank you for your question.

  The F7 20 error code means the control senses the potentiometer for LR burner is open. The cause of the problem can be a faulty potentiometer or a faulty User Interface Board. The potentiometer is the control for surface element. There are four of them, one for each surface element. They are operated by knobs. The user interface board is mounted on the back of the range, just below the control panel.
  The potentiometers are held in place by a hex nut and lock washer. When replacing a potentiometer, do not over-tighten the hex nut. To test the resistance value of either potentiometer make sure that the shaft is set to the off position, disconnect the wire harness and use an ohmmeter to measure the resistance between pins 1&2 (outside terminals) on the potentiometer. The black potentiometer should have a resistance of 10KΩ (± 10%). To test operation of the potentiometer measure the resistance between pin terminal G (center) and either of the outside pin terminals as the control shaft is being rotated slowly. There should be a steady increase or decrease in the measured resistance as the shaft is turned.
  If the potentiometer tests OK, the UIB would need to be replaced.
  The part number for the potentiometer is 316239605
  The part number for the UIB is 316426400

  Good luck.

  Gene.

• Brian // Sep 13, 2015 at 2:20 pm

  Gene
  I have a Kenmore Dryer 110.722 the burner only fires intermittently. I have tested all fuses in the back of the unit and all have continuity. I can see the igniter glow and sometime it fires and sometimes it does not. Could it be the gas valve coil? I do sometime hear a rattle light something wants to happen but not always. Also I think my timer might be bad as the Auto Dry part of the timer does not count down however Timed Dry high heat does. Is this possible. I would appreciate any advice.
  Thanks

• Gene // Sep 14, 2015 at 6:02 pm

  Hello Brian,

  Thank you for your question.

  Per your description very likely the cause of the problem is a faulty gas valve coils.

  The part number for the coil kit is 279834

  Good luck.

  Gene.

• Layla // Sep 14, 2015 at 6:53 pm

  Hello Gene,

  Good evening, I have a Frigidaire model number FGF348KSK. A few weeks back I believe I had a power surge in the house, I lost several electrical items. My display doesn’t work at all. The stove does work but due to the EOC not working I can’t figure out what I need to try to replace.

• Gene // Sep 15, 2015 at 6:51 pm

  Hello Layla,

  Thank you for your question.

  Very likely the EOC got damaged during that power surge. The solution is to replace the EOC.

  The EOC part number is 316455410

  Good luck.

  Gene.

• Brian // Sep 15, 2015 at 5:37 pm

  Gene
  The coil kit worked and they were here in one day.
  Great advice and great service.
  Thank You!!!

• Gene // Sep 15, 2015 at 6:43 pm

  You are welcome, Brian.

  I’m glad your dryer is back in business.

• javier // Sep 16, 2015 at 12:12 pm

  my Frigidaire gallery electric stove eoc showing dr , stove top works.oven does not work,and controls for setting oven ,not workingright,only clock working?

• Gene // Sep 18, 2015 at 8:41 pm

  Hello Javier,

  Thank you for your question. In order to provide most accurate advice I need the complete model number of the unit. You can find it on the frame behind the bottom drawer.

  Gene.

• Seth // Sep 16, 2015 at 7:22 pm

  My oven is also continuously flashing the F2 error, I will have to flip the breaker to get it to stop so I can sleep tonight… anyways my model number is J RP24GOP1BG

• Gene // Sep 18, 2015 at 8:38 pm

  Hello Seth,

  Thank you for your question.

  Most likely the ERC (electronic range control) has failed. Unfortunately GE has discontinued this part and it is no longer available. Sorry for such sad news but it is probably time for a new range.

  Gene.

• todd // Sep 17, 2015 at 2:03 pm

  all the switches have been replaced or tested fine. No luck. Still feels like a blown internal fuse though I know it does not have one…

• Gene // Sep 17, 2015 at 7:31 pm

  Hello Todd,

  In order to provide most accurate advice I need the complete model number of the trash compactor.

  Thank you,
  Gene.

• Henry // Sep 17, 2015 at 2:07 pm

  Gas range model#FGGF3054MFG – getting the Error F11 and does not stop beeping. What do I do?

• Gene // Sep 18, 2015 at 4:50 pm

  Hello Henry,

  Thank you for your question.

  Unplug the range for a minute. Plug it back. If the problem returns, the EOC would need to be replaced. I would recommend to replace it together with the overlay.

  The part number for the EOC is 316560118

  The part number for the overlay is 316419828

  Good luck.

  Gene.

• todd // Sep 18, 2015 at 5:18 am

  kucc151gss1 Kitchenaid TC

• Gene // Sep 18, 2015 at 4:38 pm

  Hi Todd,

  The next step is to check the drive motor.

  The first step is to test the motor overload protector for continuity.
  DO NOT remove the white or blue wire coming out of the motor.
  Touch and hold one ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the (BU) blue wire.
  Touch the other ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the (W) white wire.
  If there is no continuity, the drive motor is bad and would need to be replaced.
  Otherwise check the motor start and run windings as described in the tech sheet.
  If any of them would not pass the test, the motor would need to be replaced.

  The motor part number is w10439651

  Gene.

• Babs Wood // Sep 18, 2015 at 6:51 pm

  Hi Gene,

  I was about 1 1/2 hours into self-cleaning my oven when the F2 light came on with the beeping noise. I have a GE Profile Performance oven that is built into the cabinet. My husband is out of town and I cannot pull the oven out by myself. What should I do to stop the beeping? Thank you!!

• Gene // Sep 18, 2015 at 8:46 pm

  Hello Babs Wood,

  Just to stop the beeping the easiest way is to flip off the oven circuit breaker. It suppose to be in the house breaker box.
  If you’ll decide to fix it yourself, send me the complete model number of the oven.

  Thank you,

  Gene.

• Steve // Sep 19, 2015 at 12:24 pm

  Hi, Gene- Tried to clean upper oven & F2 code showed and beeping went on. I shut off power at fuze box. Beeping stopped and ERC panel is dark. Oven door is locked during autoclean, so I cannot get model# & other info. How do I open the door?

• Gene // Sep 24, 2015 at 6:04 pm

  Hello Steve,

  Try to power up the oven and cancel the clean cycle. It it would not work, email the picture of the oven to Gene@askgene.com

  Thank you,
  Gene.

• Chuck // Sep 20, 2015 at 9:02 am

  Hello Gene,
  I have a Frigidaire slide in gas range, model FGGS3065KBA, which shows an F30 code usually right after the oven reaches target temperature. At room temperature the temperature sensor measures 1083 Ohms. I haven’t checked it when it’s hot and throwing the error. Disconnecting the power provides only a temporary fix. The links to EOCs in some of the previous comments are not for this model. Can you tell me which would be the correct part? Thanks!

• Gene // Sep 24, 2015 at 6:27 pm

  Hello Chuck,

  Thank you for your question.

  Some time the cause of such problem can be a poor connection in the temperature sensor plug. Pull the range out of the wall and unplug it. Remove the rear panel to access the temperature sensor plug. Eliminate this plug and, using a high temperature porcelain wire nuts, hardwire the temperature sensor. Put it back together and give it a try. Hopefuly it will fix it.
  If not, the EOC would need to be replaced.

  You can buy those porcelain wire nuts in any electronic store or order it from AppliancePartsPros.com by clicking on the following part number: AP5641944

  The part number for the EOC is 316462863

  Good luck.

  Gene.

• Matt // Sep 21, 2015 at 1:10 am

  Hello gene,
  On my frigidaire oven the “easy probe” light has come on, this turning the light on in the oven, also causing the broiler to not work. I can’t seem to get it turn off? Any thoughts? this began following a storm
  Thanks

• Gene // Sep 24, 2015 at 6:31 pm

  Hello Matt,

  Thank you for your question.

  In order to provide most accurate advice I need the complete model number of the unit. You can find it on the oven frame behind the oven door or behind the bottom drawer (if applicable).

  Gene.

• Valerie // Sep 21, 2015 at 5:11 pm

  Hello Gene,
  Answering your question from Sept 7. We previously replaced the relay board, it had an obvious burn on it under one of the larger components (I am guessing it was the relay itself).
  thanks,
  Valerie

• Gene // Sep 24, 2015 at 7:06 pm

  Hello Valerie,

  According to the wiring diagram this orange wire supplies the L2 line to both Bake and Broil oven heating elements.
  Remove the power to the range by turning off the corresponding circuit breaker. Pull the range out of the wall and remove the rear panel. Carefully inspect the orange wire as well as its connections to both heating elements. If any of the connections are loose or have a burned spots, it will cause a damage to the relay board. While the connectors for the heating elements can be easy replaced, Frigidaire does not sell relay board connectors (plugs) separately. You have to buy the whole main wire harness and it is expensive. If you decide to do it, then you do not have to replace the whole wire harness. You can cut off a damaged parts of it and splice in a needed new connectors.

  The main wire harness part number is 316506200
  The oven relay board part number is 316443920

  Good luck.

  Gene.

• juan // Sep 23, 2015 at 1:56 pm

  Hi I have a Frigidaire gas range with F30 code so I bought the oven sensor but is also reading 660 ohm is that normal and i keep getting F30 code so u think replace the computer board

• Gene // Sep 24, 2015 at 7:09 pm

  Hello Juan,

  Thank you for your question.

  The complete model number of the range and the part number of the new sensor will help.

  Thank you,
  Gene.

• Brenda // Sep 23, 2015 at 3:10 pm

  Gene

  We think we have diagnosed our Kenmore HE2 front load dryer as needing new solinoid coils. My question, our dryer was converted to propane by our supplier. Will we need to do anything else when we replace this part?

• Gene // Sep 24, 2015 at 7:20 pm

  Hello Brenda,

  Thank you for your question.

  If the gas valve coils is the culprit, then it doesn’t matter which gas is used in your dryer.

  Good luck.

  Gene.

• todd // Sep 26, 2015 at 9:49 am

  Hello Gene,
  Thanks again for all your help! As we began opening the housing for the motor on the back of the unit I noticed some burn marks on top of the housing screw. I thought that strange because the housing screws were not anywhere near any wiring of the motor unit. As I thought about it more and what would cause this type of arcing on the screw, I figured that it had to come from a large power source.
  I examined the power cord and found an area on the cord that with a small screw-shaped cut into the insulation. The cord had had been pinned behind the unit during installation, eventually working its way through the insulation and then into the wires causing a short. The connection interrupted power to the main unit, thus causing the unit to completely stop functioning.
  We replaced the power cord and we’re back in business!
  Thanks again!

• Jay Hyatt // Sep 28, 2015 at 3:00 pm

  Hi Gene,

  I use your site for all my appliance issues. However I have one that is driving me crazy.

  Frigidaire stove model #cfef372es4. F10 flashes intermittently, broiler is perfect, bake works with broiler element only and normally flashes the f10 code. Tested and everything is within normal ohms. Replaced the bake element, checked the wiring and components, all is normal… Any ideas?

• Gene // Oct 1, 2015 at 7:42 pm

  Hello Jay,

  Sorry for the delay.

  Looks like the EOC has failed. Looks like the part is on nationwide back order with no ETA. It is possible Frigidaire will end up discontinuing production of this part.

  Thank you.

  Gene.

• Carolyn // Sep 28, 2015 at 5:16 pm

  Hi Gene….Wow this site is great! Just what I need. I have a Frigidaire gas range. The oven works fine except when I try to clean it. About an hour into the cleaning cycle I get an F10 error code. I am guessing from reading some of your answers that it is an EOC problem. But I am concerned that it might be something else since it only occurs during cleaning. What do you think? Thanks so much for your help! I guess my stove is like my son, hates to be clean! LOL

• Gene // Oct 2, 2015 at 3:31 pm

  Hello Carolyn,

  Thank you for your good words and sorry for the delay.

  You guess is the good one. The EOC is the culprit. If you need the correct part number then the complete model number of the range will help.

  Gene.

• Rena // Sep 28, 2015 at 6:40 pm

  Hi Gene, we have a Frigidaire oven model number PLEFMZ99ECC we did the test as you recommended on the prob and the EOC. We found the probe to be working properly with the correct OHM reading. We ordered the replacement from frigidairw,when we called order they informed us there was a recall on the Potentiomeyer/seals and they would send out a new kit. They did and had an appliance company install them.when he installed he didn’t realize each know had a different resistance so it set all sorts of codes when he plugged in oven. He then correctly installed and all was well. We then received and installed the EOC board. After install we plugged it in, the board is completely blank no power, when you turn a burner knob on, it shows an F5 error. I’m hoping the brand new Eoc board really isn’t bad. Any ideas?

• Gene // Oct 2, 2015 at 3:45 pm

  Hello Rena,

  Thank you for your question and sorry for the delay.

  You did not mention what was the original problem.

  Per the description on the F5 00 failure code the cause of the problem can be a faulty EOC as well as a faulty power board. Unfortunately in today’s world it is possible the new EOC is defective. I would recommend to request replacement of the EOC due to the part warranty. Let me know how it will go.

  Good luck.
  Gene.

• Al // Sep 29, 2015 at 6:39 am

  hello, Model: FFGF3011LWC as soon as I set the temperature and after few seconds the display resets and flashes 12:00. What is the issue?
  thanks.

• Gene // Oct 2, 2015 at 10:58 pm

  Hello Al,

  Thank you for your question and sorry for the delay.

  Most likely the problem is a bad EOC. You also may want to replace the overlay.

  The EOC part number is 316455410

  The overlay part number is 316220722

  Good luck.

  Gene.

• Josh // Sep 29, 2015 at 7:06 pm

  Hello Gene,
  I have a Frigidaire/Electrolux electronic flat top range model: PLEFZ398ECA. Yesterday my wife was cleaning the top by knobs/buttons. I’m now getting a F7 30 error code. Called the 800# an was told my right rear burner is the issue. Tried disconnected power hoping to reset with no luck. If I turn the right rear burner to low, I can then turn up the heat as well as use all other three burners. If I turn the right rear burner to off it throws the F7 30 error. I haven’t dug to deep yet. Any advice or suggestions where to start/go would be greatly appreciated.

  Thank you, Josh

• Gene // Oct 2, 2015 at 11:11 pm

  Hello Josh,

  Thank you for your question. I’m sorry for the delay.

  This error code means the control senses the potentiometer for RR burner is open. The correction is to replace the potentiometer.

  The part number for the potentiometer is 316239605

  Good luck.

  Gene.

• Jason // Sep 29, 2015 at 7:56 pm

  I have a frigidaire glass top range. I can’t find the model on my range. The kids came through the kitchen and hit the stove. My wife said she saw a spark and now the panel only lights up when l turn one of the knobs on. There is no heat coming from none of the elements. Any information would be greatly appreciated.

• Gene // Oct 2, 2015 at 11:13 pm

  Hello Jason,

  Thank you for your question. The model number is very important for accurate diagnosis and parts search. You can find it on the frame behind the bottom drawer.

  Gene.

• Mike Y // Sep 30, 2015 at 2:04 pm

  Hi. I have a Kenmore Series 70 gas dryer. When it is first turned on, the igniter glows and the burner comes on for about a minute. It then shuts off. A few minutes later, the igniter glows and the burner comes again. It repeats this process for about 15-20 minutes and then just the igniter glows but no ignition happens. I have just replaced both of the gas valve coils, but it is still doing the same thing. There is also the subtle smell of natural gas in the laundry room which both my wife and I have noticed. Do you think the gas valve itself has gone bad?

• Gene // Oct 1, 2015 at 6:46 pm

  Hello Mike Y,

  Thank you for your question.

  Per your problem description, especially because of the gas smell, the gas valve is the first suspect. If you need the correct part number, please reply with the complete model number of the dryer.

  Gene.

• Ave // Oct 1, 2015 at 10:36 am

  Hi Gene,

  Hope you can help me! Model #plef398dch. My oven was overheating and had an F10 error code. This had happened a few years ago, and when we replaced the sensor probe, it fixed the problem. I bought a new senor probe again, and it is not fixing the problem this time. If I set the oven to 350 for example, only the top broiler comes on, not the bottom. Then it gets really hot, and I get an f10 error code. I’m not sure what to try next…. EOC or ERC(clock), or bottom heating element? Please help! I miss my stove!!

• Gene // Oct 2, 2015 at 4:09 pm

  Hello Ave,

  Thank you for your question.

  At this time the EOC has gone bad. The new one should fix the problem.

  The EOC part number is 316418700

  Good luck.

  Gene.

• Helen // Oct 1, 2015 at 11:05 pm

  Hi Gene-

  I have a frigidaire gallery has range and F11 and constant beeping happens even after a reset. I saw that this indicates this is a shorted keypad. My keypad had melted in a little as well. Any idea? Is this where I need to replace the EOC? If so, do you have a part number.

• Gene // Oct 2, 2015 at 3:57 pm

  Hello Helen,

  Thank you for your question.

  In order to provide most accurate advice I need the complete model number of the range.

  Gene.

• Rafat // Oct 2, 2015 at 9:39 pm

  Hi Gene
  I have a Frigidaire oven model # PLES 399ECD. It has been giving me F30 error message. I checked the temperature controller and it is reading 1104 Ohms. So I ordered a EOC. I put it in and still is giving me a F30 error message what is the problem and how can I fix it.
  Thanks

• Gene // Oct 2, 2015 at 11:21 pm

  Hello Rafat,

  Thank you for your question.

  Did you check the temperature probe at the EOC plug or at the temperature probe plug?

  It can be a problem with the temperature probe wire harness or loose connection at the EOC plug.

  Gene.

• Rena // Oct 3, 2015 at 8:35 am

  Thank you Gene we got it figured out. The main plug on the EOC was not completely plugged in to the unit. Once pushed in further the F5 error went away.

  Thank you

  Rena

• Gene // Oct 3, 2015 at 10:14 pm

  Hello Rena,

  I’m glad it was easy fix.

  Thank you for the feedback.

  Gene.

• Tom // Oct 4, 2015 at 8:00 am

  Roper by Whirlpool model # rgd4440vq2
  I am not getting heat on a regular basis with my dryer. occasionally it works but at times it is not even glowing to start the flame. I thought it would be the gas coils but it also appears to only work on the high heat setting. Before I replace the coils I thought I would check to see if there could be something with the timer. I have tested the igniter and the Flame switch and both seem fine. I think the ohm reading was 725 or something. If it is the timer is there a way to test it?

• Gene // Oct 11, 2015 at 4:41 pm

  Hello Tom,

  Sorry for the delay.

  You can check the timer by testing for continuity between the timer terminals C and H. Prior to do that unplug the dryer and remove the wires connected to these terminals. The timer should be set on “auto-low heat” and/or “timed-low heat”. If there is no continuity, the timer would need to be replaced.

  The timer part number is w10185971

  Thank you.
  Good luck.

  Gene.

• Kathleen // Oct 6, 2015 at 2:23 pm

  I have a Frigidaire stove, model#LGEF3045KFH that is showing a F11 code error. Everything works fine, oven and stovetop but the error causes it to beep constantly. We were told that it probably is the electronic panel which is made up of 2 separate parts. Do we need both or just one of them? Not sure what each part is called. I also was told that if the electronic part was installed and it did not work I could not get my money back. Thanks for your help.

• Gene // Oct 11, 2015 at 5:15 pm

  Hello Kathleen,

  Sorry for the delay.

  Try to remove the power from the range by turning off the corresponding circuit breakers. Restore the power after two minutes. If the problem returns, the EOC would need to be replaced. You also may want to replace the overlay because it can be easy damaged during re-installation from old EOC to the new one.

  The part number for the EOC is 5304495520

  The part number for the overlay is 316419821

  Thank you.

  Gene.

• Dany // Oct 29, 2015 at 4:32 am

  Hi, I have a Frigidaire Gallery oven, Mod :PGLEF387AS4, have a problem with setting temperature for the oven, numbers on the panel all work, but can’t set more than 290 degrees, if I set 291 and up it gives me an error. when I let it run at 290, it seems over heating, burning stuff as it is 400 degrees. don’t know if it’s the sensor or an electronic problem . any idea please. Thanks

• Gene // Oct 29, 2015 at 4:06 pm

  Hello Dany,

  Very likely you somehow programmed the oven control to display temperatures in Celsius instead of Fahrenheit. To tell if your range is set for Fahrenheit or Celsius push Bake/Cure button. If the temperature display is 350º, your range is set for Fahrenheit. If the temperature display is 176º,
  your range is set for Celsius.
  Push and hold Broil/Grill button until a beep sounds. If your range was originally set to Fahrenheit the letter C will appear; if your range has been changed to Celsius the letter F will appear. Release the pad; the time of day will be displayed.

  Thank you for your question.

  Gene.

• ethan // Dec 1, 2015 at 5:50 pm

  Replaced the erc, issue is still here. Any other fixes?

• Gene // Dec 6, 2015 at 6:58 pm

  Hello ethan,

  What was the original problem?
  What is the complete model number of the unit?
  What is the part number of the new ERC?

  Thank you,
  Gene.

• sheia // Dec 3, 2015 at 4:11 pm

  My frigidaire stove model# FEF352AWF I am getting a f1 erro code my oven temp only goes to 287 and won’t go any futher need help please

• Gene // Dec 6, 2015 at 6:46 pm

  Hello sheia,

  Thank you for your question.

  Very likely the problem is a faulty EOC. The correction is to replace it. At the same time you may want to replace the clock overlay because it can be easy damaged during EOC replacement.

  The part number for the EOC is 316207511

  The part number for the clock overlay is 316220805

  Good luck.

  Gene.

• candace // Dec 5, 2015 at 4:51 am

  Our Frigidaire electric wall oven won’t turn on
  model #FEB386CESH
  Serial #NF11414767
  We had the oven on last night starting to cook something and it just beeped and turned off. The error display just says “off”. I am thinking it is the heat sensor but not sure.

• Gene // Dec 5, 2015 at 4:19 pm

  Hello candace,

  Thank you for your question.

  Sounds like the oven is in lockout (child resistant lock) mode. Lockout can be set or cancelled by pressing the COOK TIME / BAKE TIME and STOP TIME pads at the same time.

  Good luck.
  Gene.

• Montie // Dec 5, 2015 at 6:26 am

  Hello Gene. Love your blog – so helpful!!! We have a Frigidaire CFEF372EC5 likely in need of EOC replacement. As the part appears to be discontinued and online is $200+, we will be buying a new stove. Until we buy, the old one displays the F11 error and beeps continuously until I am ready to @#^&*#%! Any easy way to open up the panel and shut off that awful sound until boxing day? The burners otherwise work fine and we can use the toaster oven for a couple of weeks.

• Gene // Dec 5, 2015 at 3:35 pm

  Hello Montie,

  I’m sorry to hear such sad news.
  If you would like to power off the faulty EOC and keep using the surface burners, do the following:
  1. Unplug the range or turn off the corresponding circuit breakers;
  2. Pull the range out of the wall and remove the rear panel cover;
  3. Remove from the EOC the black wire connected to the L1 terminal and the red wire connected to the “In” terminal;
  4. Using an insulation tape, properly insulate both removed wires;
  5. Place back the removed rear panel cover;
  6. Restore the power.

  Thank you for your question.

  Good luck,
  Gene.

• Montie // Dec 6, 2015 at 9:32 am

  Hello Gene. Thanks for the speedy reply. In the meantime I unplugged and opened the back of the stove, identified the offending doohickie that was making the sound, and clipped the tiny connecting filament to it. Nice, quiet Saturday afternoon… nevertheless thanks so much for your kind help here yesterday.

• Ashley // Dec 7, 2015 at 7:48 am

  Hi Gene,

  I was hoping you would be able to help with my question from a week or so ago. Is it possible for a F2 code to fix itself? Again, haven’t received the error code since the end of October and we are now faced with sending the board off to be fixed or buying a new oven.

• Gene // Dec 11, 2015 at 5:46 pm

  Hello Ashley,

  Sorry for the delay.

  Normally it is impossible for any error code to fix by itself. For more accurate advice I need the complete model number of the oven.

  Thank you,
  Gene.

• Rodd // Dec 11, 2015 at 7:06 pm

  Gene,
  I have a Kenmore gas dryer, Model 110.96742701
  The dryer starts and sometimes the the flame will start once or if i tap on the gas valve body with the end of a screwdriver, it will click numerous times and then it may ignite the flame.
  The items that I have replaced today are, new valve coils and new flame igniter. I have verified continuity for the Thermofuse, Thermo cut off, Flame sensor and the High limit thermostat.
  All the sensors seem to check out fine.
  However, when I run a Manual Diagnostic it gives me a code of F:01 which is for the Machine Control Electronics.
  My short questions is: Could my circuit board be bad and not allowing the flame to stay lit and heat up?
  Would I visually see a problem with the circuit board?
  Thanks in advance for your response

• Gene // Dec 11, 2015 at 8:45 pm

  Hello Rodd,

  Thank you for your question.

  If the igniter glows but the flame (gas flow) starts only after you tap on the gas valve, most likely the gas valve itself has gone bad. It has nothing to do with the Machine Control board. In such situation the gas valve assembly would need to be replaced.
  If you order the part from AppliancePartsPros.com (by clicking on the part number below) and it would not fix the problem, you can return it with no questions. So you have nothing to lose.

  The part number for the gas valve assembly is w10118347

  Good luck,
  Gene.

• Ryan Bailey // Dec 12, 2015 at 11:53 am

  Replaced ERC on GE Profile oven model: JGB900SEF1SS

  Everything seemed to work like a champ for about an hour, then “F7 EA” code showed up and was beeping. So frustrated now as I thought this brand new part would fix the problem. I’m going to look into disassembling the keypad, but I’m not sure if that is what I should be looking into. I’m wondering if I got a bad part for some reason, or if that was even the issue to begin with. Any thoughts? Advice?

• Gene // Dec 12, 2015 at 5:06 pm

  Hello Ryan,

  Thank you for your question.

  The normal correction for F7 failure (error) code is to replace the keypad/membrane assembly. Unfortunately the new part for this model is no longer available.
  Such problem usually has nothing to do with ERC and replacing this part would not fix it.
  You can try to clean the end of the ribbon cable with rubbing alcohol. Some time it works. Otherwise it’s probably time for a new range.

  Sorry for a sad news.

  Gene.

• Lisa // Dec 12, 2015 at 5:57 pm

  Hi Gene,

  F2 error code & beeping when GE Built-In Electric Oven is not in use. JTP11WS (and possibly a WG at the end). I can stop the beeping by pushing some buttons, but I’ve resorted to flipping the breaker off before leaving the apartment.

  Is there any hope for a fix? It’s a built-in so replacing sounds difficult.

  Thanks,
  Lisa

• Gene // Dec 13, 2015 at 11:02 pm

  Hello Lisa,

  The cause of the problem is most likely a faulty ERC (oven control board). Unfortunately this part has been discontinued and is no longer available. Looks like it’s a time for a new oven.
  In search for a new oven the most important for you besides the price is to match the width and height of the cabinet opening.

  Good luck.
  Gene.

• karen // Dec 13, 2015 at 4:57 pm

  during pre-heat my stove is throwing an f30 code it doesnt heat fully. i have been flipping the breaker till i can figure out the problem, but even so it doesnt heat to 350 unless i set it to 360-365.
  it is fridgidair model FEF326FSC . any ideas?? – i’m truely at a loss here.

• Gene // Dec 13, 2015 at 11:17 pm

  Hello karen,

  Thank you for your question.

  Sounds like the problem is a faulty EOC which would need to be replaced. You also may want to replace the clock overlay because it is self adhesive and the old one may not stick to the new EOC.

  The part number for the EOC is 316455400

  The part number for the white clock overlay is 316220700

  Good luck.

  Gene.

• Mike // Dec 14, 2015 at 7:51 am

  Hi Gene,

  I have a PLES389ECE that was showing F30; the cooktop worked fine but the oven did not. I replaced the panel, which fixed the oven but now has the top burner occasionally turning off with an “Err”. Any ideas?

• Gene // Dec 14, 2015 at 7:05 pm

  Hello Mike,

  Thank you for your question.

  On which burner display this error code was shown?

  What is the part number of the panel you replaced?

  Gene.

• miguel // Dec 14, 2015 at 9:43 am

  Have a Ge model JGB916sek1ss F7 Error cleaning ribbon with alchol only work for few hours. Is there a replacement board available. Could it be the ribbon that is damaged sice it has a black mark on it if so does that come with new control board?

• Gene // Dec 14, 2015 at 7:11 pm

  Hello Miguel,

  Thank you for your question.

  Looks like the control panel/membrane assembly would need to be replaced.

  The part number for the assembly is wb36k10588

  You can order the part by clicking on the part number above.

  Good luck.

  Gene.

• Peter // Dec 14, 2015 at 9:52 am

  I have a problem with a GE trash compactor, model # GCG1580L0SS. The motor does not want to start. It sounds like it is stuck. What I noticed is that the motor start switch, mounted on the motor assembly, does not seem to home itself after each cycle. There are two contact tips that need to come back together at the end of each cycle so that a new cycle can begin. At times the tips do not close all the way, then the motor will not start again. If I move the gear until the tips come together, then I can start a new cycle. Any thoughts on how to fix the start switch on the motor so I do not have to replace the entire motor?

• Gene // Dec 14, 2015 at 7:28 pm

  Hello Peter,

  Thank you for your question.

  The motor start/centrifugal switch is not repairable and would need to be replaced. Sad news because GE does not sell it separate. You would need to replace the whole motor which comes as a part of motor and drive gear kit. I’m not sure if your trash compactor worth such repairs because this kit is expensive. AppliancePartsPros.com sells it for $269.34

  The part number for the motor and drive gear kit is wc26x10006

  Good luck.

  Gene.

• Jill // Dec 14, 2015 at 10:22 am

  I have a frigidaire gallery Series Oven Model #GLEZFZ384GCA. It is an electric oven. I am getting the F10 code. Unplugged it an then turned it back on. Still F10. Again unplugged- RTD tested at 1105 OHMS. Wiring Harness tested 0 OHMS. The burners work fine. The oven turns on but only the broiler element turns on. Is is the EOC? What is the part number? Please help. I need to fix before Christmas! Thanks!

• Gene // Dec 14, 2015 at 7:49 pm

  Hello Jill,

  I’ll be more than glad to help you but the model number you send is incorrect. Please, verify it and send it back to me.

  Thank you.

  Gene.

• Mike // Dec 14, 2015 at 7:38 pm

  Gene, unsure about the part number right now. The error appears to be only on the front right burner, and shows on the burner-specific display where the temperature (1-10) usually appears.

• Gene // Dec 14, 2015 at 8:01 pm

  Mike,

  Double check all wire connections and give it a try. If the problem still exists, the electronic control for this burner would need to be replaced.

  The part number for the electronic control is 316441801

  Good luck.

  Gene.

• Peter // Dec 15, 2015 at 3:53 pm

  Thank you Gene. Any thoughts on rebuilding the motor? I am trying to sell the home and I want to put everything into good repair for the next owner if possible. A new unit costs in excess of $800, so $269 is still cheaper, albeit expensive.

• Gene // Dec 15, 2015 at 6:41 pm

  You are welcome. Try to search electrical shops who does motor rebuilding.

  Good luck.

  Have a nice holidays!

  Gene.

• Jill // Dec 15, 2015 at 7:57 pm

  Sorry about that. Model # is GLEFZ384GCA.

• Gene // Dec 16, 2015 at 4:41 pm

  Hello Jill,

  This model number looks much better. Lol

  The EOC is the culprit. No doubts about it.
  The part number for the EOC is 316557205

  Happy Holidays!

  Gene.

• Bretton // Dec 16, 2015 at 6:36 pm

  Hi Gene,

  I have a Frigidaire Model No. GLEF379DSD. It preheats fine but throws an F10 code after 15 minutes or so. I checked the OHMS of the probe sensor and I get a reading for 2.5-3 OHMS. Do I need a new sensor and if so, what part number?

  Thanks!

• Gene // Dec 17, 2015 at 5:16 pm

  Hello Bretton,

  Please describe how did you check the probe?

  Thank you,
  Gene.

• Bob // Dec 19, 2015 at 8:29 am

  Hello Gene
  I have Frigidaire Elect in wall unit Model FGEW2765PW. The fault code F10 appears. Upper boiler element stays on when in bake mode and beeper sounds. Can only turn the oven off by tripping the breaker at the service panel. This has happened in the past but it was over a year ago. Wife has tried the oven again this morning after turning the breaker back on. Still the same results after about 10 mins.
  I had already assumed last year, that the element or the EOC were the problem, since there did not appear to be much else. After reading your website I see I have a little more TS to do. But I would like to verify the correct part numbers for the temp probe and the EOC. I plan on changing both items and will check wiring and connector as needed. The wife had just performed a self clean the day before she this happened. Makes me wonder about your suggestion of the connector melting. Can’t pull the oven out today because she is in kitchen preparing for a Christmas party. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year. Thanks for any help.

• Gene // Dec 22, 2015 at 7:55 pm

  Hello Bob,

  Thank you for the Holidays greetings! Merry Christmas and Happy and Peaceful New Year to you and your family!

  The cause of the problem with your oven is a faulty EOC (shorted broil relay). No doubt about it.

  The part number for the EOC is 316560172

  This part is on backorder. You can find the ETA by clicking on the part number above. Then click on the “Chat with a pro” link on the right side.

  Good luck.

  Gene.

• Bill // Dec 20, 2015 at 8:27 am

  I have a GE Profile Double Oven that is consistently displaying an F7 error code. Model# JKP56S0D1SS….need some help for the fix. It would be most appreciated!!!

• Gene // Dec 22, 2015 at 8:25 pm

  Hello Bill,

  Thank you for your question.

  The cause of the problem with your oven can be a shorted keypad or a faulty electronic control (ERC). In order to determine which part would need to be replaced you will need to open the control panel and unplug the control panel ribbon cable from the control slot. The complete disassembly instructions you can find in the article “GE oven error code “F7” and how to fix it”

  After the ribbon cable was removed, make sure no wires are touching each other or any metal surface, and restore the power to the oven. If the error code still exists, the control board would need to be replaced. Otherwise the control panel is the culprit.

  The part number for the control board (ERC) is wb27t10346

  The part number for the control panel is wb36t10517

  You can order a part by clicking on the part number.

  Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!

  Gene.

• Jayne Killackey // Dec 20, 2015 at 11:20 am

  Hi Gene,
  I have a 22 year old XL44 GE gas range. The F2 error code beeps when the oven is not in use. The only way to stop the sound was to unplug it. I know to shut off breaker to check further, but I don’t know which panel to remove to look for part numbers, etc. The number shown on the paper wiring diagram attached to the back is 348A8003P005. Does that help at all? I’m guessing it’s time for a new range, given its age.
  Thanks in advance for your help.
  Jayne

• Gene // Dec 22, 2015 at 8:32 pm

  Hello Jayne,

  The correct model number is very important for correct troubleshooting. Depending on your range, the model and serial numbers can be found on a label on the front of the range, behind the kick panel or storage drawer.

  Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!

  Gene.

• Mat // Dec 20, 2015 at 11:52 am

  Frigidaire proffesional series model ples389ece keeps shutting off and showing power failure every time I try to use the oven. If I press bake and let the fan for a little bit before I punch in the temp…it will sometimes start. Also, I can not use convection bake without first getting the oven warm…otherwise the minute the fan kicks on, it goes to power failure. Very frustrating.

• Gene // Dec 22, 2015 at 9:47 pm

  Hello Mat,

  Thank you for your question.

  Sounds like the problem is a faulty EOC.

  The part number for the EOC is 316418735

  The disassembly instructions you can find in my previous reply, addressed to Mike and posted on June 06, 2015.

  Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!

  Gene.

• Dana Grace // Dec 23, 2015 at 9:16 am

  Hello, my husband was cleaning the keypad part of the oven when it started beeping and flashing F11. He has unplugged it and waited however, when he plugs it back in it still beeps. From the comments it shows the EOC needs to be replaces. I am hoping this is not the case since it started when he was cleaning it.

• Gene // Dec 27, 2015 at 7:11 pm

  Hello Dana,

  Sorry for the delay.

  In order to provide most accurate advice I need the complete model number of the oven.

  Happy New Year!

  Thank you,
  Gene.

• Jill // Dec 24, 2015 at 5:43 am

  Thanks for the advice. My oven now works great. Very simple process to change out the EOC. Merry Christmas! Got to bake those Christmas cookies!

• Mark // Dec 24, 2015 at 6:03 am

  Gene,
  I have model jdp36gp GE electric range. F2 light has shown up sporadically during cleaning cycle and bake cycles. Any ideas?
  Merry Christmases!

• Gene // Dec 27, 2015 at 7:07 pm

  Hello Mark,

  I hope your Christmas was as merry as my!

  Did the actual over temperature condition occurred during the bake cycle?

  If not, then you have to measure the resistance of the oven temperature sensor at the ERC plug. The normal reading suppose to be about 1100 Ohms at the room temperature. If the reading is incorrect, check the temperature sensor harness and measure its resistance at the sensor plug. If the reading is incorrect, the oven temperature sensor would need to be replaced. If the reading at the ERC plug is correct then the ERC has gone bad. Unfortunately this part is no longer available.

  The oven temperature sensor part number is 12001656

  Happy New Year!

  Gene.

• Lynn // Dec 24, 2015 at 9:35 am

  this oven control panel has been replaced twice by appliance repairman and once by me as per your advice but it is showing it again. Any advice?

• Gene // Dec 27, 2015 at 6:35 pm

  Hello Lynn,

  I need more detailed information from you. What is the part number of the control panel which has been replaced? What is the model number of the oven? When it was repaired first, second and third times?

  Thank you.

  Happy New Year!

  Gene.

• Jeff // Dec 24, 2015 at 12:23 pm

  Hey Gene – Love your site. My Kenmore 326b1230p002 just ran into this problem and the top element won’t shut off unless I throw the breaker. I can’t find the control board listed on your link to Appliance Parts Pros. I’m thinking I’m SOL – any ideas? New oven time?

• Gene // Dec 27, 2015 at 6:31 pm

  Hello Jeff,

  Thank you for your good words.

  You probably can not find any information because the numbers you send are not the model number. Verify and resend it please.

  Happy New Year!

  Gene.

• Stine // Dec 24, 2015 at 11:37 pm

  can this f2 error catch oven on fire

• Gene // Dec 27, 2015 at 6:27 pm

  Hello Stine,

  Thank you for your questions.

  Yes, in some circumstances it can. You should stop using the oven until it fixed.

  Happy New Year!

  Gene.

• Tracey // Dec 25, 2015 at 7:32 am

  Merry Christmas Gene, I followed your directions to change the panel, I pushed & held bake to try it out and got a 5f notification 🙁 did I do something wrong??
  Thank you, Tracey

• Gene // Dec 27, 2015 at 6:16 pm

  Hello Tracey,

  I hope your Christmas was merry.

  One question: why did you push and hold the bake button? Holding the button probably caused this notification.

  Thank you,
  Gene.

• Jim // Dec 25, 2015 at 7:39 am

  Hi Gene:
  The F2 error light flashes and beeps on my 28-yr old GE JTP45 oven after it has been cleaning for about an hour. After shutting down the power, I put the oven in bake mode at a temperature setting of 350, and the F2 error did not appear. In addition, the reading reached on the digital temperature display agreed with a thermometer I placed inside the oven. I then tried the clean mode again and, as before, the F2 error code appeared after about an hour. Help!

• Gene // Dec 27, 2015 at 5:47 pm

  Hello Jim,

  Thank you for your question.

  I found the technical bulletin issued by GE concerning this problem. It says:

  “We have experienced nuisance service calls for an “F2” error code during the self-clean cycle with high altitude
  installations (5,000 ft or above) of Single & Double Wall Ovens built before June 2007. This case usually involves a cabinet that is completely enclosed on top, back, bottom and sides; thus restricting air flow to the cooling fan. Under these conditions, as the oven heats up, the temperatures in the component compartment elevate as well. With limited air flow, the thermal limiter (fan apparency switch) in the lock motor circuit may open. If the thermal limiter opens, the oven will shut off and the control will display an “F2″ error code.
  Suggested Troubleshooting:
  Check for the following:
  Stalled cooling fan
  Fan turning the wrong way (You should feel air flow moving towards the front of the range).
  Poor connection in the lock circuit between the lock motor and the ERC.
  Dust / blockage of the screen that covers the cooling fan.
  Make sure that the front cutout for the product is even with the cabinet floor that supports the range. If the cabinet floor is below the front cutout for the product, air flow will be restricted. Per the installation instructions, the front cutout for the product must even with the cabinet floor that supports the range.
  For a F2 Error Code, check the below as well:
  a.Pinched, cut or burned sensor wires
  b.Poor connections at the electronic range control (ERC)
  c.Poor connection between the sensor and the sensor harness
  d.Defective sensor
  If the above standard troubleshooting suggestions fail to fix the problem, the addition of a 12″ by 12″ hole (cut in the center of the cabinet floor under the product) may improve air flow in high altitude installations.”

  Happy New Year!

  Gene.

• Tom Holmes // Dec 25, 2015 at 9:57 am

  Gene,
  Over the last couple of days my wife has been doing xmas baking. At various times the oven temperature would “run away” it was set to 350F. During this “run away” temperature the oven still showed 350F. This was very intermittent and every time I was around the oven worked normally, typical! So, knowing electronics and how they work I choose to do the cheapest and replace the oven temperature probe. Never got a F code prior. Oven worked great! On xmas morning My mother-in-law preheated the oven to 350F for over 1hr then a F10 code was displayed. I canceled it out and placed the food in the oven and turned it on to 350F. My questions is could this be from the lack of food in the oven? Or a bad EOC??
  Thanks,
  Tom

• Gene // Dec 27, 2015 at 5:14 pm

  Hello Tom,

  Thank you for your question.

  I’m not sure how did you determine that “…At various times the oven temperature would “run away” it was set to 350F…” if you “…Never got a F code prior…” to replacing the oven temperature probe.

  Any way, at this time you have the new temperature probe installed and a F10 code displayed. The answer on your question is: it can not be from the lack of food in the oven; EOC is the culprit and would need to be replaced.

  The EOC part number is 316462821

  You can order the part by clicking on the part number.

  Happy New Year and good luck with your repair.

  Gene.

• Tom Holmes // Dec 25, 2015 at 9:58 am

  The model # 790.46703605

• JayT // Dec 25, 2015 at 3:35 pm

  Thank you for the described fix, it worked perfectly and now my home no longer sounds like a fire alarm testing unit.

  My F7 error code was for the plastic touchpad face type with 3 screws to hold it up. After following the directions outlined, all is back to normal.

• Ahmed // Dec 27, 2015 at 5:59 pm

  Hi, I have Ge electric stove and I am having a F3 and F2 problem that just started. F3 has been an issue for 2 weeks where it won’t let me go above 350 degrees and f2 just started since I used the broiler.

  Thanks

• Gene // Dec 27, 2015 at 6:20 pm

  Hello Ahmed,

  Thank you for your question.
  In order to provide most accurate advice I need the complete model number of the stove.

  Happy New Year!

  Gene.

• Robert // Feb 12, 2016 at 12:56 pm

  Gene,

  I have a kenmore oven model: 7909621240B.

  Have been getting an F10 error code now and then for the last few weeks.

  The resistance measures 1070 ohms both on the temp sensor and at the plug by the control board.

  Should replacing the EOC take care of the problem or could the relay board have any part of it?

  Thanks,
  Robert

• Gene // Feb 17, 2016 at 3:35 pm

  Hello Robert,

  Thank you for your question.

  The problem with your range has nothing to do with the relay board. Replacing the EOC should fix it.

  The part number for the EOC is 316557238

  You can order the part from AppliancePartsPros.com by clicking on the part number.

  Good luck.

  Gene.

• Avi Zagi // Feb 12, 2016 at 1:58 pm

  Frigidaire PLGFMZ98GCG oven
  Error F11
  I know it is the keypad my question is which part do I need to change
  the Key overlay 316419700
  or the whole electric board 316462801

  Thank you

• Gene // Feb 17, 2016 at 3:18 pm

  Hello Avi,

  Thank you for your question.

  The overlay is nothing else but piece of plastic with all keys marked on it. This piece is glued over the Electronic Control surface and is not electronic part at all. Thus, in such situation the problem correction is to replace the ERC. Sometime the overlay would need to be replaced too because it can be damaged during removing from the old ERC and installation on the new one. This part is self adhesive.

  You can order both parts from AppliancePartsPros.com by clicking on the following part numbers.

  The ERC part number is 316462801

  The overlay part number is 316419700

  Good luck.

  Gene.

• Christina // Feb 13, 2016 at 6:42 am

  Hi 🙂

  I have a Fridgidaire self cleaning convection oven model FW647W-3 with an err f2 message and a continual buzzing to go with it.

  Pushing buttons doesn’t change or stop it. Unplugging and replugging changes the screen but when I try to reset the clock it goes straight back to the f2 error.

  I unplugged it.

  Help?

• Gene // Feb 17, 2016 at 2:48 pm

  Hello Christina,

  Thank you for your question.

  Something burned inside the control compartment can be due to damaged ERC. Unfortunately the model number you provided does not come up. Please verify the model number and resend it to me.

  Gene.

• Christina // Feb 13, 2016 at 6:42 am

  I pulled off the back panel and noticed that the fibreglass insulation looks burnt..lol! This can’t be normal?

• Wally // Feb 14, 2016 at 3:12 pm

  Hi Gene,
  I have a GE electric range- JBP26WY3WW- during baking the upper oven element wouldn’t turn off and I got a F2 error code. The only way to turn it off was to flip the breaker.
  Any advice?
  Also while waiting to get this fixed, is it safe to remove the element so I can turn the breaker on and use the cook top?

• Gene // Feb 16, 2016 at 2:06 pm

  Hello Wally,

  Thank you for your question.

  The cause of the problem with your range is a bad bake relay due to soldered relay contacts. The solution is to replace the electronic control board.

  The part number for the electronic control board is wb27x10311

  You can order the part by clicking on the part number.

  As a temporary fix, to let you use the surface burners do the following:

  Remove the power to the range by turning off the circuit breakers;
  Pull the range out of the wall;
  Remove the rear panel;
  Locate the wire connected to the control board BA terminal;
  Remove this wire from the control board and properly insulate it.

  Put everything back together and reconnect the power.

  Good luck.

  Gene.

• Wally // Feb 16, 2016 at 2:34 pm

  Gene, thanks for the quick reply.

  Since I was off yesterday I did a little research and looked at the wiring diagram and figured it was the relay. I took out the control board and carefully removed the covers form the relays. I took some very fine sand paper and gently sanded the relay contacts and put it back together and it is working fine.

  Is this safe or should I go ahead and replace the part?

  To be on the safe side, for now I am turning off the breaker when not in use.

• Gene // Feb 17, 2016 at 2:14 pm

  Hello Wally,

  This is very good solution but, based in my experience, it would not last long. It is pretty safe to use the range but, keeping in mind that prices and availability for GE electronic controls are unpredictable, you may want to buy the part and keep it as the back up.

  Thank you for the feed back.

  Gene.

• Katheryn Caras // Feb 16, 2016 at 10:21 pm

  I received the F2 error when I had the broiler on Hi ; I have since used the broiler on Lo and haven’t had the problem; could it be a simple sensor error?

• Gene // Feb 17, 2016 at 2:38 pm

  Hello Katheryn,

  Thank you for your question.

  In order to provide most accurate advice I need the complete model number of the unit.

  Gene.

• Wendy // Apr 1, 2016 at 10:42 pm

  Please know reading your awesome instructions & years of comments, I solved our no heat no flame problem with our Kenmore 400 series. Best page ever!!!!

• Gene // Apr 17, 2016 at 11:14 pm

  Hello Wendy,

  Thank you so much for your good words.

  Gene.

• Kevin // Apr 15, 2016 at 5:28 am

  I have a fridgidaire oven model number FGES3045KFF. It’s show error f14? I can’t find this code in any of the comments. What is it?

• Kevin // Apr 15, 2016 at 5:41 am

  I failed to mention that I have recently replaced one of the eyes on the cooktop, is it possible something got bump or partially unplugged? I’ve looked but haven’t found anything.

• Gene // Apr 17, 2016 at 11:10 pm

  Hello Kevin,

  Thank you for your question.

  “F14” fault code means “Misconnected keyboard cable”. You may want to verify the flat cable connection between the keyboard
  membrane and the EOC on J2 and J3.
  According to Frigidaire suggestions, if you fixed the connections but the problem still persists, the EOC would need to be replaced.
  Otherwise, if connections are good but the problem persists, the control panel would need to be replaced.

  I hope the problem is just misconnection but let me know if you would need the correct part numbers.

  Good luck.

  Gene.

• Bart // Apr 15, 2016 at 9:12 am

  Hello- thanks for taking my question. I have an Electrolux double wall oven. Model EW30EW65GSA with serial number NF31828459. F10 code came up. Tech replaced both temperature sensors and still does it. warranty company now sending out another appliance co as the first companies cannot do anything else. What code be wrong? EOC per haps

• Gene // Apr 17, 2016 at 10:53 pm

  Hello Bart,

  Thank you for your question.

  Did the tech test the temperature probes for continuity before he replaced them? If not then it was just guessing instead of the diagnosis.

  Besides the EOC, there is also the relay board in your oven. If the “F10” fault code was shown but no one of ovens was overheating, the problem most likely is a faulty EOC (less common). So if one or both ovens were overheating causing the “F10” fault code, the problem is faulty relay board (more common).

  I’m assuming your oven is still covered by the warranty but let me know if you need the part numbers.

  Good luck.

  Gene.

• john // Apr 16, 2016 at 9:39 am

  Hi, I have a Frigidaire PLEFMZ99ECC stove and am receiving an F7 & 12 codes. The warming plate works, my oven seems to work, but I have the flashing codes and the burners won’t turn on.

• Gene // Apr 17, 2016 at 10:20 pm

  Hello John,

  Thank you for your question.

  “F12” very seldom fault code. The correction recommended by Frigidaire is to disconnect the power from the range for 30 seconds and reapply the power. If the fault returns, the EOC would need to be replaced. You also may want to order the new overlay.

  The EOC part number is 316418704

  The overlay part number is 316419700

  You can order the parts by clicking on the part number.

  Good luck.

  Gene.

• john // Apr 18, 2016 at 4:10 am

  Hi, thank you for the information. What would cause the “F7”, is this also related to the two parts you mention to order?

• Gene // Apr 18, 2016 at 4:58 pm

  Hi John,

  Where exactly were “F7” and “F12” fault codes shown? You did not mention it in your original post and I assumed you were talking about oven control display.

  Gene.

• Kevin // Apr 18, 2016 at 8:35 am

  Do you know a rough estimate on the boards? From what I’m hearing they are pretty expensive. I did check the ribbon and the connections was good but the problem remains. We did have a bad lightning storm a couple of months ago so could it just now be showing the damage? Thanks.

• Gene // Apr 18, 2016 at 5:12 pm

  Hello Kevin,

  I do not think the cause of the problem is that old storm.

  Did it happen right after the last repair? Which part did you call “eye”?

  Gene.

• john // Apr 18, 2016 at 5:14 pm

  Hi, if you look from left to right on the panel with the clock and controls… there are four display screens for the burners….

  Left Front Burner – F7 Left Rear Burner – 12
  Right Rear Burner – F7 Right Front Burner – 12

• john // Apr 18, 2016 at 5:39 pm

  I forgot to add… The warmer plate in the back center of the stove, works, the oven works, the clock works… its just the burners that will not function.

• Gene // Apr 19, 2016 at 4:16 pm

  Hello John,

  “F7-12” fault code shown on the surface units displays means the control senses the potentiometer for LF burner is wrong value. Such fault code can be caused by the faulty potentiometer or faulty User Interface Board.

  The part number for the LF potentiometer is 316239605

  The part number for the UIB is 316426400

  You can find the complete troubleshooting instructions in my reply addressed to Becque Ford: http://tinyurl.com/hm72hfd

  Good luck.

  Gene.

• Kevin // Apr 19, 2016 at 5:08 am

  It did happen right after the last repair, the eye I was referring to was one of the top elements. To replace it I took the cooktop loose from the stove and flipped it over.
  I did check the keyboard cable like you suggested and it seemed to not be seated straight so I re seated and it looked good, just like before I checked the cable when you turn on any oven control it will start up and run for about 10 seconds then a click can be heard around the control panel and it gives the f14 error code.

• Gene // Apr 19, 2016 at 8:59 pm

  Hello Kevin,

  Unplug all ribbon cables and check them for microcracks using a magnifying glass. If there are any, the control panel assembly would need to be replaced. You can order the part from AppliancePartsPros.com for $339.93 As of today the part is out of stock. You can find the ETA by calling their customer service at 1-877-477-7278 or by using live chat.

  The part number for the control panel assembly is 318922128

  If there is nothing wrong with the ribbon cables, you may want to replace the EOC first. The price for the part is $161.34

  The part number for the EOC is 316560140

  Any part purchased from AppliancePartsPros.com can be returned within 365 days.

  Good luck.

  Gene.

• Kevin // Apr 20, 2016 at 5:05 am

  Ok, thank you for your detailed answers hopefully this will get me going. I really appreciate your help.

• Cary // Aug 10, 2016 at 2:07 pm

  Greetings, I have Frigidaire gallery
  model # FEB398WECD. Recently the f1 code comes on when preheating, can be turned off by pushing most any button but comes back on, also beeps constantly when f1 is on. Also came on at night when oven was off. Upper oven only.
  Thanks for your time.

• Gene // Aug 18, 2016 at 4:48 pm

  Hello Cary,

  Thank you for your question.

  You may want to start the troubleshooting from testing the temperature probe for the upper oven.
  Remove the power to the oven and open the control panel. You may need to partially remove the oven from the cabinet.
  Locate the 8 pin connector on the control board and unplug the two temperature probe wires (pins 5 & 8). Check for continuity between these two wires. The normal reading should be around 1100 Ohms.
  If the reading is correct, the EOC would need to be replaced.
  If the reading is incorrect, the temperature probe for the upper oven would need to be replaced.

  The part number for the temperature probe is 316490001

  The part number for the EOC is 318010501

  Good luck.

  Gene.

• Mark // Aug 12, 2016 at 9:04 am

  Hi Gene,
  I have a frigidaire professional gas oven model PLES389ECC which is showing an F-11 code. I’ve already changed the probe and I believe it needs a new EOC. What is the part number and is it something a pretty handy senior citizen can do or leave it up to a service man?

• Gene // Aug 18, 2016 at 3:46 pm

  Hello Mark,

  Thank you for your question.

  This error code means the control board senses one or more pads on the touch pad shorted.
  The touch pad is a part of the control panel. So the correction is to replace the control panel assembly.

  The part is expensive. You can order it from AppliancePartsPros.com for $353.49 by clicking on the part number bellow.
  The part number for the control panel is 318313830

  Good luck.

  Gene.

• Mac // Aug 14, 2016 at 12:42 pm

  Great advise and comments ,thanks to all .It worked for me just the cleaning of the ribbon , please try that before ordering any parts . Thanks a lot.

• Lori // Oct 24, 2016 at 12:22 pm

  MY GE Profile double wall oven keeps beeping with an F2 error message on the lower oven control during use of the upper oven only–and just now it went off over an hour after I had last used the upper oven! The model number is J KP56AOW2AA. My ovens are a little more than 18 years old–can this be repaired or do I need to replace? Thanks in advance for any help you can give me!!!!

• Gene // Oct 30, 2016 at 3:13 pm

  Hello Lori,

  Thank you for your question.

  Your oven can be repaired by replacing the control board. The cost of the part is $310.70, so you have to decide if the oven is worth it or it’s better to replace the whole oven.

  The part number for the control board is wb27T10289

  Good luck.
  Gene.

• Dave // Oct 26, 2016 at 11:36 am

  I too am getting the F2 message continuously even when not in use. It also randomly cuts off during cooking. fixable or no?
  Model no. J T912S0F3SS
  Serial no: VG6 25888Q

• Gene // Oct 30, 2016 at 2:25 pm

  Hello Dave,

  Thank you for your question.

  Everything is fixable as long as parts are available.:))
  In the situation with your range you would need to replace the ERC.

  The part number for the ERC is wb27T10800

  Good luck.
  Gene.

• Jenn C // Oct 27, 2016 at 5:57 am

  Hi, our GE Electric Oven (Model jbp82s0h2ss) is giving the F2 error code and the oven is not heating/shutting off. My husband has checked the oven temperature sensor which did read 1100 Ohms. We’d like to try to fix it ourselves but not sure which part to order. He did mention there was some corrosion near some wires on the back which he tried to remove but the oven still gave the F2 error code. Any help you can provide would be appreciated!

• Gene // Oct 30, 2016 at 2:12 pm

  Hello Jenn,

  Thank you for your question.

  If the oven temperature sensor checks OK then the Electronic Range Control has failed. One or more relays in the ERC failed closed. In order to fix this problem, the ERC would need to be replaced.

  The part number for the ERC is WB27T10473

  Good luck.

  Gene.

• Scott // Oct 29, 2016 at 11:29 am

  Hi Gene,

  My Frigidaire glef379dbb broiler element failed recently and upon replacing with a new element I found that neither the oven or broiler work. I can hear the relays clicking but no power to either element. No fault codes are showing. Any ideas?

• Gene // Oct 30, 2016 at 1:59 pm

  Hi Scott,

  Thank you for your question.
  If there is nothing wrong with the surface burners, very likely the EOC has failed and not supplying proper power to the “L2 out” terminal.
  In such situation, the EOC would need to be replaced. You may want to order the new overlay together with the EOC because it’s very easy to damage the old one during reinstallation.

  The part number for the EOC is 316557205

  The part number for the overlay is 316419303

  Good luck.

  Gene.

• Scott // Nov 3, 2016 at 4:06 pm

  Gene,

  Thank you very much. That fixed it.

• Rich // Nov 4, 2016 at 9:01 am

  Thank you. Thank you!

  The suggestions to clean the “ribbon cable” with rubbing alcohol worked for us. It saved a lot of expense and worry. It is a simple and logical solution, especially since the oven vents on to the control panel and all its electronics.

  Rich

• Susan // Nov 5, 2016 at 8:45 am

  I have a ge spectra xl44 (can’t find model #). Was baking bread like I have for 15 years and all of a sudden my smoke detectors going off and I find the bread on top rack is literally on fire. I did see it was flashing F2 error and honestly not sure if it turned itself off, but I know I did as soon as I saw flames. It was almost as if the top broiler turned on by itself. Do you think sensor or thermostat?

• Gene // Nov 5, 2016 at 4:47 pm

  Hello Susan.

  Thank you for your question.

  Sounds like the problem is a faulty range control board. In order to provide more accurate advice I need the complete model number of the range. You can find it:
  1. Under the top panel
  2. On the oven door frame behind the door
  3. On the range frame behind the bottom drawer

  Gene.

• Jessica // Nov 21, 2016 at 3:52 pm

  Hi, I have a Frigidaire gas free standing stove. The stove has never given me a problem but today I went to use the oven and when I pressed bake I got a beeping sound and f31 on display screen. Can you help?

• Gene // Nov 27, 2016 at 12:10 am

  Hello, Jessica.

  I’ll be glad to help you but in order to do it, I need the complete model number of your range. You can find it on the frame behind the bottom drawer.

  Thank you,

  Gene.

• Tina // Nov 22, 2016 at 4:07 pm

  Hello Gene I have a fridgadaire gas range n it keep reading F30 I have unplugged in over and over again plugged it back and still doing the same thing could u tell me what could be wrong with my range

• Gene // Nov 27, 2016 at 12:06 am

  Hello, Tina.

  In order to provide most accurate advice I need the complete model number of the range. You can find it on the frame behind the bottom drawer.

  Thank you.

  Gene.

• brad // Nov 23, 2016 at 5:03 pm

  Hi Gene
  I have a GE JT912 convection oven, full model number (JT912COF1CC).
  I am getting the F7 error code, tried cleaning the ribbon cable but did not work. Seems like the start button is sticking sometimes. part number on the ribbon cable is “164D4935P003 Bisque assembly” do you know if a person can replace just the keypad?
  Thanks
  Brad

• Gene // Nov 27, 2016 at 12:01 am

  Hello, Brad.

  Thank you for your question.

  The only solution in such situation is to replace the control panel. The job is not complicated, especially if you already removed it for cleaning. Ther are two other problems. The first problem the part is on back order. The second problem – the part is very expensive. It runs close to $600 ($594.02). I’m not sure if the oven is worth such repairs.

  The part number for the control panel is AP3205957

  Good luck.

  Gene.

• Susan // Nov 24, 2016 at 6:35 am

  So happy to find your site. It’s thanksgiving and my new kitchen aid flashes ES f2. read manual over and over and then on impulse input es f2 on my lap top so now thanks to you I know I have to find another way to cook today LOL I will be calling service tomorrow. You’re the best!!!

• Gene // Nov 26, 2016 at 11:46 pm

  Hello, Susan.

  Thank you for your good words.

  I hope you found the solution and your holiday turkey was the best!

• Nicole // Nov 24, 2016 at 7:53 am

  Hi Gene,

  I have a CGEF308TNF and it displays an F64 error code. When the range is unplugged and then plugged back in, both the oven and cooktop will work for a period of time (less than 12 hours) and then the F64 error code comes back when I attempt to turn on either the oven or cooktop burners.

  The clock on my range also runs quite fast – as in, a few hours after I reset the clock time, the time showing is many hours ahead.

  Can you please help?

  Thanks,
  Nicole

• Gene // Nov 26, 2016 at 11:41 pm

  Hello, Nicole.

  Thank you for your question.

  This error code means missing synchronization signal from the relay board (controller) to the EOC (clock-timer). The manufacturer recommends to verify first the connection between the relay board on connector J2 pin 5 and the EOC on connector P2 pin 5 by checking the connector for continuity.
  If wiring is good, Frigidaire recommends to replace the relay board (controller) first and, if the problem not fixed, to replace the EOC next.
  I would recommend to replace both of them together due to the timing problem you mentioned.

  The part number for the relay board (controller) is AP5983949

  The part number for the EOC is AP5671945

  The EOC is on special order. You can find the ETA by contacting AppliancePartsPros.com customer service. Their phone number is 1-877-477-7278. You also can use their live chat.

  Good luck.

  Gene.

• Samuel // Nov 24, 2016 at 8:41 am

  Problem with frigidaire range oven model FGF366CS, letters “dr” appear on digital display and won’t allow me to operate oven.

• Gene // Nov 26, 2016 at 10:00 pm

  Hello, Samuel.

  Thank you for your question.

  The model number you provided is incomplete. There suppose to be one more letter after “S”. This letter is very important for accurate troubleshooting. Please, verify the model number and resend it.

  Thank you,
  Gene.

• Eileen Kaplan // Nov 25, 2016 at 7:38 am

  Own a GE ˛L44 range/oven. The F2 code used to flash/turn off oven at 500 degrees. Now it flashes/beeps at 350 degrees. Is it worth repairing or should I seek a new product. My husband and I are NOT handy.

• Gene // Nov 26, 2016 at 9:44 pm

  Hello, Eileen.

  Thank you for your question.

  In such situation (you both are not handy) cost of repair could be between $200 to $500. Also, it is possible that the parts would not be available anymore. Sad news but, probably it’s time for a new range.

  Gene.

• Mitch // Dec 3, 2016 at 8:30 am

  Kenmore range model 790.4507 2400
  F 10 error hits once it gets up to temp. I replaced the temp sensor probe 316217002, but the error comes back when it reaches the temp. what else can I check? Also, the EOC might need replacing. Would that be pt 318185475 for the white one?

• Gene // Dec 16, 2016 at 6:19 pm

  Hello, Mitch.

  Sorry for the delay.

  Looks like the EOC is the culprit.

  The EOC part number for your range is 318185446

  

  Merry Christmas and Happy New year!

  Gene.

• Alan // Dec 6, 2016 at 5:55 pm

  Gene

  Unfortunately I don’t gave a m/n for my 5 year old Frigidaire gas stove, but I hope you can help me anyway.

  My problem is when I have my oven on, and I light a burner, it shuts the control panel off. I have replaced the control board and I can’t find any shorts anywhere. Any idea what I might be missing?

  Thanks in advance

  Alan

• Gene // Dec 10, 2016 at 9:54 pm

  Hello Alan.

  Thank you for your question.

  In order to provide most accurate advice I need the complete model number of the stove. You can find it on the frame behind the bottom drawer or on the oven frame behind the oven door.

  Gene.

• Robert Block // Dec 9, 2016 at 10:26 am

  I had a GE j2s968sek1ss with an F2 problem. Replacing the sensor cured the problem for a year or so but the problem returned. This time, the plastic (!!!) connector on the sensor melted. Replaced connection with ceramic wire nuts and fibreglas tape and so far seems to be working.

• Gene // Dec 10, 2016 at 9:42 pm

  Hello Robert.

  Just wanted to say thank you for sharing your repair with us. Failed plastic connector is one of a very common reason for such problem so your post was very illuminating and instructive.

  Thanks again, and good luck with your range.

• Bob Clem // Dec 11, 2016 at 12:08 pm

  Hi Gene,

  We have an Electrolux Range Model Number EW30GF65GSC. The F10 error code occurs occasionally and beeps continuously, mostly late at night when the open is off and ice cold. Once in a while it indicates the same error code when baking something. It can be cleared by unplugging the oven and plugging it back in. The resistance of the sensor is 1080 ohms, both at the EOC connector and at the sensor. The continuity of the wire harness is good. I had replaced the RTD sensor believing in might have been too low in resistance. That had no effect. This model does have a lower oven, whuch we have never used, could another sensor be the issue ??? Thank you in advance for your help and Merry Christmas !!! Bob

• Gene // Dec 16, 2016 at 5:43 pm

  Hello, Bob.

  Thank you for your question.

  Most likely the cause of the problem is failed EOC. In order to fix it the EOC would need to be replaced.

  The part number for the EOC is AP4510803

  Merry Christmas and Happy New year!

  Gene.

• Bryan // Dec 11, 2016 at 7:47 pm

  Gene,

  I have an GE P2S920SEF3SS slide-in dual fuel range. My range would randomly stop working. I would turn off the breaker and turn it back on. No buttons would work for about 1/2 hour. Then it would work fine Every so often the digital display would beep and flash F76.
  I replaced the ERC this weekend. I replaced each wire from the old ERC to the new ERC one by one.
  Turned the range on and none of the buttons work and the clock just flashes. The time changes but it just flashes. Deassembled it and checked everything and reassembled.
  Do I need to replace the button panel also?

• Gene // Dec 16, 2016 at 5:06 pm

  Hello, Bryan.

  Thank you for your question.

  The meaning of this failure code is shortened key matrix or Off key. In most cases, it leads to the key (touch) panel failure.

  The part number for the glass and touch board assembly is AP5791105

  This part is on back order. You can find the ETA by calling their customer service at 1-877-477-7278 or you can use their live chat.

  Merry Christmas and Happy New year!

  Gene.

• Adriana // Dec 13, 2016 at 9:06 am

  Hi, Gene
  I have a FEFL79GCA model and recently it started to show the F10 code, it heats up too much or not enough. Also, it doesn’t beep when reaching the set temperature.
  Thank you,
  Adriana

• Gene // Dec 16, 2016 at 4:35 pm

  Hello, Adriana.

  Thank you for your question.

  Very likely the EOC has failed. It would need to be replaced. You may want to order the new overlay as well because it’s very easy to damage the old one during removal and installation onto the new EOC.

  The part number for the EOC is AP4510792

  The part number for the overlay is AP3776841

  Merry Christmas and Happy New year!

  Gene.

• Pamela // Dec 16, 2016 at 4:30 pm

  Our oven display F-31… how can we fix this problem?

• Gene // Dec 16, 2016 at 5:34 pm

  Hello, Pamela.

  In order to provide most accurate advice I need the complete model number of the oven.

  Thank you,
  Gene.

• STEPHEN JOHNSON // Dec 18, 2016 at 12:17 pm

  hey Gene….i have a kenmore electric range with the F10 err flashing….sounds like a problem you’ve been addressing with some other folks…..any chance you could help me find the right parts ?

  the model # is 790 9661 4403

  thank you for your help –Steve

• Gene // Dec 20, 2016 at 10:13 pm

  Hello, Steve.

  Thank you for your question.

  The problem with your oven is that the electronic control senses runaway temperature.

  If this fault code is shown while the oven is in day time mode, the EOC would need to be replaced.

  If it happens during the cooking, you may want to check the thermal probe (sensor) for continuity first. The best way to do it is at the EOC plug, pins P5-14 and P5-15. The normal reading should be about 1100 Ohms. If the reading is incorrect, the temperature probe would need to be replaced.

  The part number for the temperature probe is AP3969435

  The part number for the EOC is AP3772075

  You also may want to order the overlay for the EOC because it’s very easy to damage the old one during removal and reinstallation.

  The part number for the biscuit overlay is AP3771323

  Merry Christmas and Happy New year!

  Gene.

• Mark // Dec 19, 2016 at 2:41 pm

  Hi Gene,

  I am writing to thank you. I was trying to find a solution to the intermittent problem I was having with my Whirlpool Super Capacity 465 gas range right before cooking the Thanksgiving turkey. I found on the internet that you suggested to someone in 2012 to enlarge all eight lighting holes on the bake burner. I just did that and the turkey was cooked perfectly just before the guests are arrived. I may still buy a new one just in case to replace the one I have ‘fixed’.

• Mark // Dec 20, 2016 at 12:44 pm

  I forgot to ask one question… What is the collar around the short end of the range bake burner (WP9758078) for? It is held in place by a screw. As I see it it could be rotated around a bit to adjust the size of the overlapped area. Thanks.

• Gene // Dec 20, 2016 at 9:16 pm

  Hello, Mark.

  This collar is to adjust the amount of air for the burner.

  Happy holidays!

  Gene.

• Mark // Dec 21, 2016 at 11:40 am

  Thanks for the quick response (in this busy time of the year)! At what position it should be secured? Is the way it comes from the parts dealer good (at fully open position)?

• Gene // Dec 21, 2016 at 12:18 pm

  Hi, Mark.

  In accordance with the manufacturer instructions, do the following: “Check the oven bake burner for proper flame. This flame should have a ½” (1.3 cm) long inner cone of bluish-green, with an outer mantle of dark blue, and should be clean and soft in character. No yellow tips, blowing or lifting of flame should occur.
  If the oven bake flame needs to be adjusted, locate the air shutter (collar) near the center rear of the range. Loosen the locking screw and rotate the air shutter (approximately 3/4 open) until the proper flame appears. Tighten locking screw.”

  Good luck.

  Gene.

• Mark // Dec 21, 2016 at 12:34 pm

  Great! Thanks Gene…
  Happy Holidays!

• George // Dec 21, 2016 at 7:00 pm

  I have read about the F10.I have a Frigidaire free standing glass top stove. Model #FEF364DQA. I would like to order the temp senor & the control panel (EOC) Where can I get these parts? What is the part number for each? Thank you.

• Gene // Dec 21, 2016 at 11:22 pm

  Hello, George.

  Thank you for your question.

  You can order both parts from AppliancePartsPros.com by clicking on the part numbers bellow.

  The part number for the EOC is AP4552110

  The part number for the temperature probe (sensor) is AP3969435

  Merry Christmas and Happy New year!

  Gene.

• Melissa // Dec 22, 2016 at 6:37 pm

  hello Gene
  I have a code F90 on my stove, a couple of days I set it up for self clean and ever since then the lock door button keeps flashing but the door ain’t locked I can still open it but when I set to bake or anything else it shows F90 , the serial number is VF41263567. THE MODEL # LGGF3044LFG.
  thank you much.

• Gene // Dec 23, 2016 at 8:18 pm

  Hello, Melissa.

  Thank you for your question.

  Unplug the stove and get access to the EOC (control board). Check for continuity between the wires connected to pins 9 (gray wire) and 10 (orange wire). Both wires should be removed from the plug prior to the test. If there is continuity, the motor-latch assembly would need to be replaced. If there is no continuity, the EOC would need to be replaced.

  The part number for the motor-latch assembly is AP3950971

  The part number for the EOC is AP4433328

  If you are going to replace the EOC, you may want to order the overlay as well because it’s very easy to damage the old overlay during reinstallation.

  The part number for the overlay is AP4452662

  Merry Christmas and Happy New year!

  Gene.

• Joe // Dec 23, 2016 at 10:28 am

  Hello Gene, I have a Frigidaire FGEW3065PFB oven. After about 15 min on bake (350 degrees) it gives me an F10 error code and won’t stop beeping until I unplug it. The element will stay glowing red even when the oven beeps at the 350 mark I have it set for then throws the code a few minutes later… Do I need to replace the EOC?

• Gene // Dec 23, 2016 at 8:47 pm

  Hello, Joe.

  Thank you for your question.

  Very likely the EOC is the culprit and it would need to be replaced.

  The part number for the EOC is AP5987167

  Merry Christmas and Happy New year!

  Gene.

• Craig Miller // Dec 24, 2016 at 8:01 am

  Gene,

  I have a Frigidaire model fgif3061nfc induction range. I am getting a eo 23 error. I replaced the user interface board but the error is still coming up. I have checked all my wire connections. What else can I do?

  Thanks,

  Craig

• Gene // Dec 24, 2016 at 12:50 pm

  Hello, Craig.

  Thank you for your question.

  The next step (according to the manufacturer troubleshooting instructions) is to replace the left side generator board.

  The part number for the generator board is 316305400

  Merry Christmas and Happy New year!

  Gene.

• KIM // Dec 25, 2016 at 4:57 am

  My oven turned on by itself and beeped with a F2 error code. Only top element was on. Turned breaker off and back on, no error code but oven still turns on by itself. It’s a Maytag wall oven model # MEW6627BAB

• Gene // Dec 26, 2016 at 12:38 am

  Hello, Kim.

  Thank you for your question.

  Looks like this is a double oven. Which oven is malfunctioning: upper or lower? What is shown on the display when it turns on by itself?

  Gene.

• Kim // Dec 26, 2016 at 6:04 am

  It’s the upper oven. Initially it flashed F2 but after we shut off the breaker and turned it back on the F2 is gone but oven still comes on by itself and we can only shut it off by breaker.

• Gene // Dec 26, 2016 at 5:01 pm

  Hello, Kim.

  Very likely the cause of the problem is the faulty relay board for the upper oven. It would need to be replaced. The relay board is located inside the oven control panel.

  The part number for the relay board is wp74006612

  You can order the part by clicking on the part number.

  Happy New year!

  Gene.

• jim s // Dec 26, 2016 at 11:17 am

  gene—- my oven stopped working fgef3032mfa
  it shows no error code— display shows oven on and preheating— element does not get hot—- broiler
  does not work —–help jim

• Gene // Dec 26, 2016 at 5:32 pm

  Hello, Jim.

  Thank you for your question.

  Are the surface burners work well? If not, locate the range circuit breaker in the breaker box and flip it off and on. It should restore the power.

  If this is not the issue, turn the circuit breaker off and pull the range out of the wall. Remove the rear panel and inspect all wires between the EOC and the oven heating elements. Especial the orange wire which is the common for both heating elements. If any of them is broken or burned out, fix it and give it a try.

  If the wires are fine, the EOC would need to be replaced. I would recommend ordering the face plate too because it’s very easy to damage the old one during reinstallation.

  The part number for the EOC is 316557260

  The part number for the overlay is 316419361

  Happy New year!

  Gene.

• Fran // Dec 27, 2016 at 7:11 am

  I have an Electrolux dual fuel range model EW30DF65GSB. The proble mis a F10 error. I have replaced the EOC three times now. Each time the range is good for a short period of time and then starts the F10 again. It will throw the F10 while the oven is on and also while the oven is off. Sometimes even 7-8 hours after the oven has been off. Could it be the relay board or control panel?
  Thank you

• Gene // Dec 28, 2016 at 3:12 pm

  Hello, Fran.

  Thank you for your question.

  Does the oven overheat when it’s in use?

  If it does, the relay board would need to be replaced.

  The part number for the relay board is 316443920

  Otherwise, while F10 is shown, remove the power from the range and check the oven temperature probe for continuity at the EOC plug P1. The normal reading at the room temperature supposes to be about 1100 Ohms. Also, it’s a good idea to check the temperature probe harness.
  If the temperature probe resistance is out of range, the temperature probe would need to be replaced.

  The part number for the temperature probe is 316490003

  Happy New year!

  Gene.

• Fran // Dec 29, 2016 at 7:08 am

  Thank you for you help. As far as I know the oven does not actually over heat during use, but will sometime throw the F10 while cooking. I have eliminated the plug connection on the main oven probe (connected with wire nuts) but haven’t done so on the second oven.

• Sylvain Chouinard // Feb 9, 2017 at 9:47 am

  Hi Gene,
  I have a f10 error on my frigidaire oven model CGLEF379DSG. The oven temperature probe measure is 1200 omh. Same measure at the probe harness. Is the EOC i need to replace

  thank you

• Gene // Feb 16, 2017 at 11:16 pm

  Hello, Sylvain.

  Thank you for your question.

  Yes, the EOC is the culprit. You may want to order the EOC overlay too because it’s easy to damage the old one during reinstallation.

  The part number for the EOC is 316557205

  The part number for the overlay is 316419304

  Good luck.

  Gene.

• Koua Jones // Feb 11, 2017 at 8:51 pm

  What part would I need to replace to fix the F2 error on my GE oven 164d3871 p001?

• Gene // Feb 16, 2017 at 11:05 pm

  Hello, Koua.

  Thank you for your question.

  Unfortunately, the model number you sent is incorrect. Please verify the model number and resend it.

  Gene.

• Bill // Feb 14, 2017 at 9:58 pm

  Hi Gene,

  I have a subzero 632 that is not cooling well on the fridge side. It is set at 34 Deg F but is actually going from 36 to 45 Deg F and stays mostly at around 40 Deg F. The freezer works fine.

  Any suggestions?

• Gene // Feb 16, 2017 at 10:58 pm

  Hello, Bill.

  Thank you for your question.

  Very likely the problem with your refrigerator caused by a clogged condenser coil which is located on the top of the refrigerator, behind the grille. You can find more specific instructions in the Use and Care manual on page 22.

  Gene.

• Steve Star // Feb 16, 2017 at 1:41 pm

  Model 79072909014 KENMORE GAS RANGE got an f11 error code and replaced eoc and still got f11

• Gene // Feb 16, 2017 at 10:39 pm

  Hello, Steve.

  Thank you for your question.

  What is the part number of the EOC you installed? Have you replaced the EOC overlay as well or you used the old one?

  Gene.

• Koua Jones // Feb 17, 2017 at 10:10 pm

  Gene,

  The correct model number is JBP72SOK2SS. I initially saw the error code when using the broiler. I have used the range, up to 475°F, to cook since without seeing the F2 error code.

• Gene // Feb 18, 2017 at 6:59 pm

  Hello, Koua.

  Thank you for providing the correct model number.

  In such situation (F2 error code only while using the broiler), you may want to start repair from eliminating the oven temperature sensor plugs.

  Pull the range out of the wall and remove the power from the range by turning off the circuit breaker or unplugging the power cord. Remove the rear cover and locate the sensor wires coming through the oven back wall. There suppose to be a plastic connector which consists of two pieces. Cut off both plastic plugs and splice the sensor and wire harness wires using a high temperature wire nuts.
  Assemble everything back together, restore the power and give it a try.

  The part number for the high temperature porcelain wire nuts is AP3440631

  Good luck.

  Gene.

• John // Apr 3, 2017 at 8:16 pm

  My Frigidaire ELCT stove model ples389ech shows error code f30 did ohm temp probe at 1090. do not want to replace eoc unless necessary, is there anything else I could check before replacing eoc?

• Gene // Apr 8, 2017 at 10:33 pm

  Hello, John.

  Thank you for your question.

  If you tested the temp probe at the EOC plug then the EOC would need to be replaced. Otherwise, you may want to check the temp probe wire harness first.

  The EOC part number for the EOC is 316418735

  Good luck.

  Gene.

• Robin Willcox // Apr 8, 2017 at 4:27 am

  Hi Gene,
  I have a Viking wall oven model VESO 130255. Day before yesterday my boyfriend was trying to set the clock and apparently was holding the clock button while turning the set dial, or maybe just pushing some odd combination of buttons, we don’t know; in any case now the oven won’t heat. Electricity is fine, all the lights work; there’s no error code or beeping, the screen reads the time as it usually does. I waited 24 hours in case he had accidentally set some time bake program, but still same problem. No heating in any mode whether broil or bake or convection etc. any ideas? Thank you!

• Gene // Apr 8, 2017 at 10:22 pm

  Hello, Robin.

  Thank you for your question.

  You may want to flip off the oven circuit breakers for about 10-15 minutes. Turn it on and give it a try. You may need to set the oven clock again.

  Good luck.

  Gene.

• Richard Konowalchuk // Apr 11, 2017 at 3:25 pm

  I have a FRIGIDAIRE PGLEF385EB4 .it starting burning food in the oven so i changed the Temperature Sensor .didnt seem to change anything so i got a oven thermostat and at 350 degrees the temp gauge showed it at 450 and climbing then the oven shut off with a F10 code where do i go from there ?

• Gene // Apr 17, 2017 at 9:22 pm

  Hello, Richard.

  Thank you for your question.

  Very likely the cause of the problem is a faulty relay in the EOC. The solution would be to replace the EOC.

  The part number for the EOC is 316418760

  Good luck.

  Gene.

• Wally // Apr 13, 2017 at 9:29 pm

  Hi Gene,

  The oven top element on my GE electric range, Model MT227880G, is not working. What is the best way to troubleshoot it?

  Thanks, Wally

• Wally // Apr 13, 2017 at 9:54 pm

  Gene,

  I gave you the serial number instead of the model# for my GErange. The model # is J BP26W Y3WW.

  Thanks, Wally

• Gene // Apr 17, 2017 at 8:57 pm

  Hello, Wally.

  Thank you for your question.

  You may want to start the troubleshooting from checking for continuity the broil (oven upper) heating element.

  Pull the range out of the wall and unplug it or turn off the range circuit breaker. Remove the back cover. Inspect the wires connected to the broil heating element.
  If there are broken or burned out wires, it’s easy to fix them. Post the picture of them and I’ll give you the detailed instructions.
  If the wires are good, remove at least one of them from the broil element terminals and using a multimeter check for continuity between the broil element terminals. If there is no continuity, the broil heating element would need to be replaced.

  The part number for the broil heating element is wb44x10015

  

  If the broil heating element tests ok, then the ERC would need to be replaced.

  The part number for the ERC is wb27x10311

  Good luck.

  Gene.

• Mike // Apr 16, 2017 at 7:49 pm

  Hi Gene,
  I have a Frigidaire Gallery oven and I had code F10 – the oven was overheating and only broil was working. I replaced the oven temperature sensor Part #: 316490003 and the oven was working fine for 3-4 weeks. use it about 10 times. Today – the same code the same error and overheating, The oven is 4 years old and I had the same sensor replaced 2 years ago, and then 3-4 weeks ago. What seems to be wrong with this oven? Is it simply Frigidaire garbage oven?
  Thank you,

• Gene // Apr 17, 2017 at 8:23 pm

  Hello, Mike.

  Thank you for your question.

  You may want to start the troubleshooting from checking the temperature sensor for continuity. Locate the sensor plug at the oven EOC. Unplug it from the EOC and measure the sensor resistance across the two sensor wires. The normal reading would be about 1100 Ohms. If the reading is incorrect, check the sensor wire harness all the way to the sensor plug on the back and check the resistance at the bottom plug. If the reading is still incorrect, the temperature sensor has failed and whoever sold you the part should replace it under the part warranty.
  If the temperature sensor passes the test, then the EOC or relay board (if there is one) would need to be replaced. In order to provide more accurate advice as well as the part number, I need the complete model number of the unit.

  Gene.

• Robin Willcox // Apr 18, 2017 at 11:24 am

  Hello Gene, just a follow-up from my query of April 8th, for the elucidation of the next person that has this problem – – it turns out that all the button-pushing and dialing that the boyfriend did managed to set both the Sabbath mode and the Showroom mode on. The tech support department at Viking helped walk me through turning both of those off. If you press (and hold) the clock button, it brings up a menu – that dialing the set button scrolls through. Once on a feature, a press of the clock button toggles it on and off. All is well now and Easter dinner was saved …

• Alice Eanes // Apr 19, 2017 at 8:07 am

  F-10 just started beeping and appeared on the screen. The oven was not in use or had not been used for a couple of days

• Gene // Apr 24, 2017 at 7:42 pm

  Hello, Alice.

  Thank you for your question.

  If the problem happened while the oven was not in use, then most likely the EOC (control board) would need to be replaced. If you need the correct part number, post the complete model number of the unit.

• Jessica Lane // Apr 21, 2017 at 4:17 pm

  Hello Gene,
  I have a Frigidaire Professional series electric range and oven. Model No: FPEF3081MFD. Went I used the oven to preheat at any temperature it is throwing a F10 code. I shut the breaker off for 1 to 2 minutes and then reset it. It will work fine sometimes and sometimes not. What could be the potential problem! What parts would I need to order? Thank you for your help!

• Gene // Apr 24, 2017 at 7:40 pm

  Hello, Jessica.

  Thank you for your question.

  Pull the range out of the wall and unplug it or turn off the circuit breaker. Remove the rear cover. Locate the oven temperature probe plug (P29) at the control board. Unplug it and using a multimeter check for continuity between wires connected to pins 1 & 2. The normal reading should be about 1100 Ohms.
  If the reading is incorrect, the temperature probe would need to be replaced. Otherwise, the EOC (control board) has failed.

  The part number for the temperature probe is 12001656

  The part number for the EOC is 316562016

  Good luck.

  Gene.

• Stephen Thorn // Apr 22, 2017 at 7:34 am

  My Kenmore smooth top range control, for front left burner, cooks in high, unable to control temp!

• Gene // Apr 24, 2017 at 7:15 pm

  Hello, Stephen.

  In order to provide most accurate advice I need the complete model number of the range.

• Dan // Apr 24, 2017 at 9:23 pm

  Hi Gene,
  I am also a member of the F2 club (only upper oven that has the controls). My GE Wall Oven Model# is JTP28B0F3BB & s/n DG645428Q.

  Most anytime the upper oven is set more than 400F or the Broiler is on, the F2 code appears within 15 min and the oven turns off. Most of the time the oven just turns off and there is no displayed code. When I do get the F2 I do not need to reset power to clear the F2 code, only hit the off button.

  Also, recently when baking at temperatures below 400, the “real” oven temperature is much less than the set temp, but no error code appears.

  I am generally good with fixing things, but could use your help with replacement part numbers.

  Thanks so much,
  Dan

• Gene // Apr 26, 2017 at 10:24 pm

  Hello, Dan and welcome on board.

  You may want to start the troubleshooting from testing the upper oven temperature sensor resistance. The best way to do it is from the control board (ERC) plug. Remove the power from the oven and open the control panel. The oven sensor is connected to the J1 connector, pins 4 & 6. The normal reading should be about 1100 Ohms @ room temperature.

  If the reading is incorrect, the oven would need to be removed from the cabinet to access the sensor plug from the back of the oven. Check the oven sensor at the plug. If the reading is incorrect, the oven temperature sensor would need to be replaced. If the reading is correct, eliminate the plastic plug and splice the wires together using a high temperature porcelain wire nuts. Put everything back together and test the sensor resistance at the ERC again. Run the oven on a few different temperature settings.

  If the temperature sensor resistance is correct from the beginning, the ERC would need to be replaced.

  The part number for the oven temperature sensor is wb23t10015

  

  The part number for the ERC is wb27t10411

  Good luck.

  Gene.

• Lawton // Apr 29, 2017 at 10:12 am

  I have a Matag wall oven that gets a F3 and beeps. I have changed the temp sensor and still have the problem?

• Gene // May 9, 2017 at 9:56 pm

  Hello, Lawton.

  Possible the control board has failed. In order to provide more accurate advice I need the complete model number of the oven.

  Thank you.

• Ronda // Apr 30, 2017 at 1:24 pm

  Hi Gene,
  I have a Frigidaire Gas stove model # FGF348KCN
  We had a storm that popped my GFCI…when I reset the GFCI the stove now has a F37 fault code. I tried unplugging the stove for over 10 min and still has the same code. I’m afraid to hear the answer on this one. Thanks for any help!

• Gene // May 9, 2017 at 9:54 pm

  Hello, Ronda.

  There is no such fault code listed for this model. Please, verify and repost it.

  Thank you.

• Mary // May 9, 2017 at 6:23 am

  Gene,

  I purchased a GE gas range PGS920SEF2SS on 8/11/14. On 10/6/16 the control board was replaced due to an F76 error code. At the end of April ’17, I got the same F76 error code and the control board was replaced again. On 5/7/17, yet another F76 error code and the independent appliance store where I purchased this range is ordering the THIRD control panel for this range! They have installed each of the two earlier control boards and can not figure out why I keep getting an F76 code. The first time, a GE tech person suggested that I not spray or use harsh chemical cleaners – I don’t. Now, they are asking me to have an electrician check the outlet the range is plugged into as there might be an outlet problem causing the control board to short. The top of the range (burners) work but no oven. Can you possibly explain what is going on? Thanks!

• Gene // May 9, 2017 at 9:46 pm

  Hello, Mary.

  Very unusual situation. The meaning of the error code you posted is “shorted key matrix or Off key”. It leads to the key panel, not to the ERC (control board). The mini manual for this model number states that there should be a separate glass touch panel which is connected to the ERC via a ribbon cable. Well, I checked the breakdown parts diagrams on all available web sites. Guess what? They all show the ERC with the part number wb27x25332 but no one of them shows glass touch panel board.
  What is the part number of the part the store keeps replacing?

• Gene // May 10, 2017 at 3:10 pm

  Hello, Mary.

  I had to speak with GE to find out the right part number for this glass touch board assembly.

  The part number is wb27x20745

• Scott M // May 9, 2017 at 8:34 am

  Hey Gene,

  I have a GE True Temp Oven showing an F2 code and the top burner stays on high with no way to turn the Oven off except via the breaker. Oven number is 326B1230P001. Any ideas on this oven and if it can possibly be repaired?

  Thanks

• Gene // May 9, 2017 at 8:56 pm

  Hello, Scott.

  Very likely the ERC has failed. The model number you posted is incorrect. Please, verify and repost it.

  Thank you.

• lynne ehre // May 9, 2017 at 5:15 pm

  I have a frig wall oven and the

  F 2 and beeping is still on. garlic bread caught on fire/ what can we do to fix this ?

• Gene // May 9, 2017 at 8:54 pm

  Hello, Lynne.

  In order to provide most accurate advice I need the complete model number of the oven.

  Thank you.

• Jay // Jun 2, 2017 at 12:32 pm

  Hi Gene, I have a GE Profile standing slide in stove purchased back in 96. I am getting an F3 error code and it shuts off. I am assuming I should try to replace the temperature sensor. The Model # J SP40B0W1BB

• Gene // Jun 11, 2017 at 4:02 pm

  Hi, Jay.

  Thank you for your question.
  Remove the power to the range by turning off the circuit breaker. Pull the range out of the wall and remove the rear cover(s) to access the temperature sensor wire harness. Unplug the sensor and check it for continuity using a multimeter. The normal reading at the room temperature should be about 1100 Ohms.
  If the reading is incorrect, the sensor would need to be replaced.

  If the reading is correct, do the same test at the control board plug.
  If the reading is incorrect, inspect the sensor wire harness and eliminate (cut off) the sensor plug by the sensor. Hardwire the sensor instead, using a high temperature porcelain wire nuts.

  If the reading at the control board is correct, the control board would need to be replaced. Sorry for the sad news but this part has been discontinued by GE and is no longer available. In such situation, it’s time for a new range.

  The part number for the oven temperature sensor is wb21x5301

  Good luck.
  Gene.

• Jon // Jun 2, 2017 at 3:55 pm

  F2 on a Spectra, model number J BP64B0B2CT circa 2003. Beeping of course and I imagine it didn’t stop until the temperature of the oven came down.

  Thanks in advance for any help!

• Linda Kirkland // Jun 3, 2017 at 2:51 pm

  I just caught bread on fire in the oven, removed the bread but now the F10 code is flashing. Will it stop when the oven cools down or will I need to replace the EOC?

• Linda Kirkland // Jun 3, 2017 at 2:52 pm

  Sorry, I forgot. It is a gas oven.

• Gene // Jun 11, 2017 at 3:33 pm

  Hi, Linda.

  In order to provide most accurate advice, I need the complete model number of the oven.

  Thank you.
  Gene.

• Jon // Jun 4, 2017 at 2:13 pm

  More information. Almost immediately upon turning the oven on to 450 degrees, it indicates Preheated. Temp sensor or control board?

• Gene // Jun 11, 2017 at 3:29 pm

  Hi, Jon.

  Thank you for your question.
  You may want to start the troubleshooting from testing the oven temperature sensor. Unplug the range (turn off the circuit breaker) and pull it out of the wall. Remove the rear control panel cover and locate the 5 pin plug at the control board. Unplug it and check for continuity between the two white wires (pins 4 & 5). The normal reading at the room temperature inside the oven suppose to be about 1100 Ohms.

  If the reading is incorrect, the temperature sensor would need to be replaced.

  The part number for the temperature sensor is wb21x22134

  If the reading is correct, the control board is the culprit and would need to be replaced.

  The part number for the control board is wb27t10231

  Good luck.
  Gene.

• Matt // Jun 14, 2017 at 7:19 am

  Gene,
  My over intermittently gets an f10 code when set above 400 degrees. The model # is LGGF3043KFR. Thanks.

• Gene // Jun 22, 2017 at 6:44 pm

  Hello, Matt.

  Thank you for your question.
  If the oven was overheating when it showed this error code then the EOC would need to be replaced.
  If it did not overheat, then more likely the temperature probe is the culprit.

  The part number for the oven temperature probe is 316490003

  The part number for the EOC is 316557217

• Rodel // Jun 20, 2017 at 4:10 am

  Hi gene,

  I have frigidaire stove model no. CPLEF398ACA. at first my over its on but no heat but still i can use the top for cooking. After a month F1 and beep come. I can clear the error but after an hour it error come back again.

  Any solution?

  Thank you.

• Gene // Jun 22, 2017 at 6:32 pm

  Hello, Rodel.

  Thank you for your question.
  Are you sure the error code appeared on the oven control display reads “F1”? It suppose to be 2 digits after “F”.

• Kayla // Jun 23, 2017 at 10:31 am

  Yes my Frigidaire stove flashes F11, stve Model # LGEF3045KFG. From what i have read I need and EOC replaced how much does one cost for this model

• Gene // Jul 2, 2017 at 9:27 pm

  Hello, Kayla.

  Thank you for your question.
  You are on the right track. In such situation, the EOC would need to be replaced. You also may want to order the new overlay.

  The part number for the EOC is 5304495520
  You can order it from AppliancePartsPros.com for $157.64

  

  The part number for the overlay is 316419821
  You can order it for $21.39

  

• Lyle // Jun 23, 2017 at 3:07 pm

  Hi Gene, I have a Frigidaire Gallery range, model CGEF3059RFA and it comes up with error code F11. We can stop it from beeping but it takes about 5 minutes of pushing cancel WE have unplugged and rest it a few times but it comes back. It was fine for almost 24 hours and thensatrted again. Can you help

• Gene // Jul 2, 2017 at 9:38 pm

  Hello, Lyle.

  This error code means “shorted keypad”. There is no a separate keypad in this range. In order to fix the problem, the EOC would need to be replaced. You also may want to order the new overlay.

  The part number for the EOC is 5304495521

  

  The part number for the overlay is 316419828

  

• Laura Kendrick // Jun 24, 2017 at 5:58 am

  Hello Gene, I have a KERS206XSS KITCHENAID STOVE. On thanksgiving when I was cooking for many hours it threw a f10 code became very hot. Unplugged and was able to use again, just didnt have the money to fix at that time. It began doing more frequently and smelled horrible so i stopped using it. This week I replaced the sensor probe but immediately got the code and again horrible smell. My question is at the back there is some burned insulation I can see, should I attempt to replace the Eoc like i saw in previous questions or buy another stove. Thanks so much. Laura

• Gene // Jul 2, 2017 at 10:15 pm

  Hello, Laura.

  Thank you for your question.

  Is the burned insulation you mentioned a part of the EOC or it’s a part of a wiring?

  The EOC would need to be replaced anyway but if the wiring is damaged, it must be fixed too.

  The part number for the EOC is wpw10349892

  I always recommend replacing the overlay at the same time.

  The part number for the overlay is wpw10349893

• Rodel // Jun 24, 2017 at 9:57 am

  Hi Gene,
  Yes im sure its “-F1- err” its show in LCD display.

  Thanks for your help.

• Gene // Jul 2, 2017 at 9:02 pm

  Hello, Rodel.

  You may want to order and replace the EOC. I would recommend replacing the overlay too.

  The part number for the EOC is 316207620

  

  The part number for the overlay is 316243301

  

• Sharon // Jun 25, 2017 at 7:56 am

  correction…

  Hi Gene, I have a Frigidaire stove CGEF3055KFA and the oven heats up very slowly. After 4-5 hours it only reaches 280-290F. what could be the problem? Thank you.

• Gene // Jul 2, 2017 at 10:19 pm

  Hello, Sharon.

  Thank you for your question.

  I would like to know how does it heat on Broil?

• Fredo FELLINI // Jun 26, 2017 at 7:04 am

  Hey Gene, I’ve found your post here as I seem to be having a similar issue as you’ve had and some of the other posters.
  I have a DGES387AS2 Frigidaire with the F2 code tripping only when I try activating the clean cycle.
  I haven’t done much testing “under the hood” but I suspect that in my case, it isn’t the sensor or ERC because everything else works and has been that way for a couple years… I’m just a little annoyed at having this function but not being able to use it…
  I believe, for the autoclean cycle, there are a couple things to verify; the lock function (button on panel – which doesn’t seem to respond or do anything) or the locking pin servo (90 degree pin that turns to lock oven door, seems a little flimsy)
  Any info on testing or checking these components would be great, a wiring diagram perhaps and possibly a replacement parts vendor.

  Thanks!

• Gene // Jul 2, 2017 at 10:39 pm

  Hello, Fredo.

  Thank you for your question.

  I need a bit more information.

  Did this error code show at the beginning, in a middle or at the end of the self-clean?

  Did the door lock during self-clean?

• Lindsey // Jun 29, 2017 at 7:38 pm

  Hi, we have a GE Profile double wall oven model JK955SFSS. Today about an hour after the oven was turned off, it beeped and showed an F2 error.

  We’ve looked through this post and see that there are many possible causes. Another issue we have been experiencing, which may be connected, is that when the oven is set to a temperature, the display shows it has reached temp/beeps and stays that way. However, if the oven is turned off and then back on to the desired temp, it can be as much as 20-30 degrees below the set temp.

  Any help appreciated.

  Thanks.

• Gene // Jul 2, 2017 at 11:07 pm

  Hello, Lindsey.

  Thank you for your question.

  I would recommend replacing the oven temperature sensor for the oven in question (you did not mention is it upper or bottom oven).
  I also would recommend to eliminate the sensor plug and splice the wires together using a high temperature wire nuts. The oven would need to be removed from the cabinet because the access to the sensor plug is from the back of the unit.

  Both sensors are identical.

  The part number for the oven sensor is wb21x22134

• Charlie // Jul 3, 2017 at 6:13 pm

  My smooth top stove is showing the F 10 code once in a while Frigidaire . What do I need to do ?

• Gene // Jul 8, 2017 at 6:55 pm

  Hello, Charlie.

  In order to provide most accurate advice, U need the complete model number of the stove.

  Thank you.

• Frank // Jul 4, 2017 at 6:42 pm

  Hello Gene,

  My spark igniter (6 burners) stopped working recently. We’ve used it for almost 30 years, and I think the model is no longer available at stores. Do you know where I might find a replacement? Or what would be an equivalent brand/model now? I plan to install it myself.

  Harper-Wyman Kool-Lite Model 6542 (120V, 60Hz, 4MA).

  Thanks, -Frank

• Gene // Jul 8, 2017 at 7:22 pm

  Hello, Frank.

  Thank you for your question.

  The spark module you mentioned is no longer available. Send me the complete model number of the stove and I’ll try to find the suitable replacement for you.

• Robert Udowitz // Jul 7, 2017 at 7:17 am

  Hi Gene – We have a 2005 GE Profile J2S968S H4SS (self-cleaning dual fuel slide-in range) and are also receiving the F2 notification. This just began during a self-cleaning. Please advise.

  This site has been very helpful. We look forward to your advice.

  Thank you,
  Robert

• Gene // Jul 8, 2017 at 7:41 pm

  Hello, Robert.

  Thank you for your question.

  During the self-clean the cooling fan should run. Did it?

• Richard // Jul 8, 2017 at 11:26 am

  I replaced the control board on our Maytag wall oven model #CWG3100AA513/ser.#D14619097 and when I turn the breaker back on to power it up I get a constant beeping sound and it shows a F2EO error code. It won’t allow me to do anything not even turn on the oven light.

• Gene // Jul 9, 2017 at 6:25 pm

  Hello, Richard.

  Thank you for your question.

  Please verify the end of the model number after “AA”.
  What is the part number for the control board you installed?

• Nicole // Jul 9, 2017 at 6:25 am

  I have a GE gas range model JGBS60DEF1WW and I keep getting an F2 error. I bought a new control panel and the oven worked fine for 4 days and now I’mgetting the F2 error and the constant beeping again!!

  I checked the oven sensor and it is fine. What else can be wrong?? HELP!!!

• Gene // Jul 9, 2017 at 6:36 pm

  Hello, Nicole.

  Thank you for your question.

  Please describe more detailed how did you check the oven sensor and what was the result.

• Robert Udowitz // Jul 9, 2017 at 7:11 pm

  Gene – I am not certain but I do not think the cooling fan was operating. I activated the self clean and left the room. Typically I know I hear it but am not certain if I did this time.
  Thank you

• Gene // Jul 18, 2017 at 7:28 pm

  Hello, Robert.

  A problem with a cooling fan during self-clean can cause “F2” error code. You would need to verify if it’s functioning properly.

• Brent Ahlquist // Jul 12, 2017 at 11:28 am

  Hello Gene (my dad’s name too),

  I’m a DIY by compulsion with a refrigerator ice maker problem. My unit is a Kenmore Elite #10651183113 made by Whirlpool. I have diagnosed things as far as I am able without speculation or need of additional info (wiring diagram). I have it pulled out, shields off etc. and find out that Kenmore will not sell the documentation. Whirlpool can but it takes a month and no technical person in either company is allow to help me….lame and somewhat unreasonable, so I’m reaching out to you.
  Here’s the problem…I’m not getting water to the ice maker. I can trigger a ice cycle where 120V is provided to the ice inlet valve but it never arrives at the valve terminals. Both inlet valves work as I switched the dispenser and ice maker and tested. There is a primary inlet valve that services both the dispenser and ice maker valves. Whenever either valves turn on the primary turns on. However, I cannot get continuity between the jumper from each to the primary. I assume there must be a diode.
  That means that the tan wire between the ice maker inlet valve and the ice maker terminal must be intercepted. My assumption is that another board has a relay and control that guarantees that both the ice maker and dispenser valves do not come on at the same time in order to prevent too little water going to the ice maker. Is this true? and given that the inlet valves, door switches, ice maker controller all work, is the problem this board?

  Thanks,
  Brent

• Gene // Jul 19, 2017 at 3:33 pm

  Hello, Brent.

  Thank you for your question.

  You are on the right track. There is a diode assembly which is part of the water valve harness. Very likely that it is the culprit. Looks like it’s wrapped in a black insulation tape and has V & T incoming wires.

  Because it comes as a part of the harness, you would need to order the whole harness assembly.

  The part number for the harness assembly is w11098408

  Good luck.
  Gene.

• lezli // Jul 19, 2017 at 2:06 pm

  I just moved into an apart with a Whirlpool gas oven. F2 goes off even when the stovetop is on – as well as, when the oven is on. I also cannot shut it off… but got lucky 3x when i keep hitting buttons.

  where can I find the Model number? It is wedged between cabinetry

  Any advise?

• Gene // Jul 19, 2017 at 3:38 pm

  Hello, Lezli.

  You can find the model number:
  1. Behind the oven door, on the frame.
  2. Behind the bottom drawer
  or
  3. Under the top panel.

  The complete model number is very important for proper diagnosis and parts search.

  Thank you,
  Gene.

• INRID NEAT // Jul 31, 2017 at 11:06 pm

  LAST FRDAY MY ELECTROLUX ICON ELECTRIC SMOOTHTOP COOKTOP TURNED ON ONE BURNER BY ITS SELF. WE POWERED OFF THE COOKTOP AT THE CIRCUIT BREAKERS. BUT NLW I CAN NOT COOK. HELP OR ARE YOU GOING TO PAY FOR OUR RESTAURANT MEALS??? PLEASE LET ME KNOW.PH: 310 831-5462 . THANKS IB NEAT

• Gene // Aug 19, 2017 at 3:27 pm

  Hello, Inrid Neat.

  Thank you for your question.

  Verify if the model and serial numbers are on the list of recalled cooktops. If they are, contact the manufacturer as soon as possible for appropriate service.

• Morley O'Neill // Aug 6, 2017 at 12:26 pm

  Gene,
  I have a CEW30IF6ISA Induction stove and the 316443920 PCBA has a burnt Resistor R2 on it. Do you know the resistor value?

• Gene // Aug 19, 2017 at 3:40 pm

  Hello, Morley.

  Thank you for your question.

  The manufacturer doesn’t provide such information. The only solution in such situation is to replace the whole board.
  You can order the part from AppliancePartsPros.com for $96.20 by clicking on the part number below.

  The part number 316443920

• Ronnie gray // Aug 9, 2017 at 8:58 pm

  Replaced eoc and code still comes back

• Gene // Aug 19, 2017 at 3:51 pm

  Hello, Ronnie.

  In order to provide most accurate advice, I would need the detailed description of the original problem, your diagnosis, and repairs as well as the complete model number of the unit and the part number you installed.

  Thank you.

• Natalie // Aug 15, 2017 at 7:18 pm

  Dear Gene
  I have a GE double oven profile model numberJTP56WD1WW. I first got a F7 code and after clearing the code several times with the cancel button I’m now getting a F0 code. The only button that will respond to touch is the cancel buttons on both upper and lower ovens. I have tried cleaning the strip with alcohol and hasn’t seemed to help any other suggestions?
  Thank you
  Natalie

• Gene // Aug 19, 2017 at 4:34 pm

  Hello, Natalie.

  Thank you for your question.

  There are two possible causes: a faulty control panel or a faulty control board. The new control board is very expensive – almost $400, while the new control panel has been discontinued and is no longer available. You may want to shop for a new oven.
  If you would like to try to replace the control board, the part number is wb27t10297

• Heaven // Aug 18, 2017 at 8:56 pm

  My gas stove started beeping F11 and I have tried all the options above and will not stop what do I do

• Gene // Aug 19, 2017 at 5:06 pm

  Hello, Heaven.

  In order to provide most accurate advice, I would need the complete model number of your stove.

  Thank you.

• Andrea // Aug 19, 2017 at 7:58 am

  My issue sounds very similar to Mary’s. I have a GE Profile range that we’ve replaced the control panel on once due to a F76 code. The stove was 10 months old at the time and now only 6 months later is having the same issue. Any thoughts? We are not getting it wet and do not cook that frequently. Very disappointing for such an expensive and new stove. Thanks for your help!

• Gene // Aug 19, 2017 at 5:11 pm

  Hello, Andrea.

  I would need the complete model number of your range.

  Thank you.

• Christine Bedalow // Aug 21, 2017 at 3:50 pm

  Hi Gene,
  I have a Frig Gas stove, FGGF 3054 WH and got the F11 error while broiling. We continue to use the oven but only on 399 degrees as the highest setting.
  We got the error again and then smelled gas. So, I believe it is the EOC and I need a part number. Would this also cause a gas leak in the oven? Are there other parts we need to consider replacing? The top burners work fine. thanks Christine

• Gene // Aug 21, 2017 at 6:48 pm

  Hello, Christine.

  Thank you for your question.

  The model number you posted is incomplete. There suppose to be one more letter in front of “W”. Please, verify and repost it.

  Gene.

• Eric // Aug 23, 2017 at 8:02 am

  I have a GE Profile oven model # J SP40B0W1BB and the lower heating element has broken. When someone else asked about this model number, you were able to give them a part number. I can’t find a manual for this model anywhere, and am trying to find out the replacement part number for this element. Can you help?

• Gene // Aug 24, 2017 at 10:52 pm

  Hello, Eric.

  Thank you for your question.

  There are some rules on how to use GE model numbers for searches. First of all and, this is correct for any brands, there are no spaces.
  Then, (don’t ask me why:)) GE sometimes will drop zero (or any other number) in the middle of the model number.
  In your case, the model number for the parts search should be JSP40BW1BB.

  The part number for the oven Bake element is wb44k5012
  

• Andrea // Aug 24, 2017 at 6:56 am

  Hi Gene – Per my previous comment, I have a similar problem as Mary’s with F76 code and beeping. This is the stove/model #:

  GE Profile 5.6 cu. ft. Slide-In Gas Range with Self-Cleaning Convection Oven in Stainless Steel
  Model # PGS920SEFSS

  Thanks!

• Gene // Aug 24, 2017 at 11:23 pm

  Hello, Andrea.

  Which part has been replaced: the electronic control board or the glass touch panel?
  Who did diagnostic and repair?

• JD // Aug 30, 2017 at 2:08 am

  Hi Gene.

  I am wondering if you can give some advice on our Hotpoint electric range – model # RB787G0Y3BB.
  Pretty sure it was working fine until we were out of town for a few days. It suddenly took several hours to preheat. So thinking it was the baking element, we replaced it. Seemed to work at first – heated quickly but then wouldn’t maintain the temp. And the next day went back to taking forever to preheat & still wouldn’t stay hot. For a couple of days in a row, preheated faster – maybe maintained temp okay (not so bad) then the F2 code went off during baking. Oven would not turn off & had to switch off breaker & left it like that for a few days. When we switched breaker back on, oven still wouldn’t turn off.
  From reading other posts here, it could be the control board? I may be able to find one but how can I be sure that is the problem? I am not real sure how handy we are – to be sure if that’s what’s wrong & if we are able to replace it ourselves. Should we hire someone?
  My stepfather would rather just buy a new stove since this one is almost 20 years old. My mom purchased this one,though – it was hers. So my reason for wanting to keep it is largely sentimental. Plus it just seems wasteful, I guess.
  I’d appreciate any help you can give.

  Thanks, JD

• Gene // Aug 30, 2017 at 7:21 pm

  Hello, JD.

  Thank you for your question.

  No doubt the cause of the problem is a faulty range control board. Unfortunately, this part is no longer available. Looks like it’s time for a new range :).

  Do not buy a very expensive unit. They are not very reliable.

• paul // Aug 31, 2017 at 6:47 am

  my fridgidaire gas stove started beeping with the f11 showing, then later after unplugging for over a minute and then plugging in the f11 came on again and the shortly later the f90 came on. The unit is a little over a year old. model #LGGF3043KFT serial # VF54710501

• Gene // Aug 31, 2017 at 7:26 pm

  Hello, Paul.

  Thank you for your question.

  The correction for “F11” fault code is to replace the EOC. “F90” fault code points to a possible problem with the oven door latch motor but it also could be caused by a faulty EOC which operates with the motor.
  You may want to replace the EOC first which can solve the “F90” fault code too.
  I would recommend ordering new overlay with the EOC.
  The EOC part number is 316557217
  

  The overlay part number is 316419342
  

• paul // Sep 1, 2017 at 7:06 am

  thank you for your prompt reply. Do you believe fridgidaire should use higher quality eoc boards to eliminate early failure? My unit is only 14 months old.

• Gene // Sep 1, 2017 at 4:07 pm

  Good question!
  I don’t have any statistic on such failures. One tech experience is absolutely not enough. It could be many different things besides the quality which could cause electronic parts failure.

• Elie // Sep 7, 2017 at 4:15 pm

  Hello Gene,
  I got a Jenn-Air CG206B
  all the ignitors don’t spark or click.
  Would I be able to identify which is bad
  the spark module or
  the spark ignitor?

  Thank you very much.

• Gene // Sep 7, 2017 at 10:00 pm

  Hello, Elie.

  Thank you for your question.

  You may want to start the troubleshooting from verifying incoming power to the cooktop. Unplug the power cord under the cooktop and plug into the power outlet any small electric appliance (fan, light etc). If it would not work, you need to check the circuit breaker for the cooktop. Reset the circuit breaker and give it a try. If there is still no power, call an electrician.

  If there is nothing wrong with incoming power, most likely the spark module failed. There are two ignition switches and the chance for both of them to fail together is very little.
  You can order the spark module from AppliancePartsPros.com for $73.74 The cost of labor can be different depends on your local servicers. If you would like to replace it yourself, let me know please.

  The part number for the spark module is 1430322

• Elie // Sep 8, 2017 at 9:30 am

   Hello Gene and thank you very much for the quick response. I kind of guessed it that is the module since as you mentioned the probability of both ignition switches to go bad is very low.
  YES, I am very much interested in ordering the module and install it myself. I searched the net for hours to locate a video clip or a step by step removing and replacing that unit for that Jenn-Air CG206B but had no success.
  I figured I just need to remove all the fixtures then unscrew the top and probably voila….no?
  Any help will be greatly appreciated.
  Thank you again

• Elie // Sep 8, 2017 at 3:18 pm

  Gene, you are an angle.
  After reading your reply, I checked the ciciut breaker of the stove and it was good then I checked the electrical plug under the stove and found the plug not all the way in the power outlet. Apparently was half unplugged during cleaning or rearrangement of the junks in the cabinet under the built in stove. Now everything works fine.
  Thanks a million again Gene for the little big advise.

  Sent from my iPad Pro
  Elie

• Gene // Sep 8, 2017 at 5:33 pm

  Thank you for your good words.

• Mindy // Sep 11, 2017 at 6:58 am

  Hello Gene! We have a Frigidaire model FEF379ACK. While preheating our oven, it overheated (the broiler turned on high and we were just using the regular bake feature at 350) and it flashed code F10. We unplugged it and tried it again, same thing happened. We are debating on which part to order. Thank you in advance for your help! This site is great!!

• Gene // Sep 11, 2017 at 10:14 pm

  Hello, Mindy.

  Thank you for your question.

  The cause of the problem is a faulty EOC. No doubt about it. The correction is to order new EOC and replace the faulty one. You may want to order new overlay as well because it’s very easy to damage the old one during re-installation.

  The part number for the EOC is 316207529

  

  The part number for the overlay is 316220805

  

  You can order the parts by clicking on the part numbers above.

• Bill Marsh // Sep 12, 2017 at 7:22 pm

  The built-in KitchenAid KSSS42QDX04 a couple of days ago started making clicking sounds in the upper area near the compressor. Today both the freezer and refrigerator stopped cooling. Might this be a faulty overload relay (part# 2154697), a bad compressor or something else?

• Gene // Sep 13, 2017 at 9:12 pm

  Hello, Bill.

  Thank you for your question.

  You may want to start the troubleshooting from testing the compressor.

  You can perform the compressor test as follows:

  Resistance test
  1. Disconnect power to unit.
  2. Discharge capacitor by shorting across terminals with a resistor for 1 minute.
  NOTE: (Some compressors do not have a run capacitor.)
  3. Label and remove leads from compressor terminals.
  4. Set ohmmeter to lowest scale.
  5. Check for resistance between
  Terminals “S” and “C”, start winding
  Terminals “R” and “C”, run winding
  If either compressor winding reads open (infinite or very high resistance) or
  dead short (0 ohms), replace compressor.

  Ground test
  1. Disconnect power to refrigerator.
  2. Discharge capacitor, if present, by shorting terminals through a resistor.
  3. Remove compressor leads and use an ohmmeter set on highest scale.
  4. Touch one lead to compressor body (clean point of contact) and other probe to each compressor terminal.
  If reading is obtained, compressor is grounded and must be replaced.

  If both tests are fine – the compressor electrically is good. Most likely the problem is a bad start components.

  The start components part number is wp4387835

  You can order it by clicking on the part number.

  

  If the compressor has failed you would need to hire a professional.

• Duane K. Siebert // Sep 19, 2017 at 8:11 am

  Hello, Gene.

  Thank you, so much, for creating your web site!

  I have a (not so) FrigidAire with a freezer cooling only down to around 40 degrees.

  I replaced the defrost thermostat to no avail.

  I can see the evaporator fan is running just fine.

  I initially manually defrosted the coils (they were a solid mass of ice at the top and into the freezer compartment to the extent that I couldn’t even remove the shelf in front of the panel I needed to remove) so I could see what I would be working on with regard to the defrost thermostat.

  After ordering the part and replacing it, overnight the coils are now completely frozen at the top, again, by about 2 – 3 inches or so.

  The evaporator fan is running constantly (so not quickly cycling on/off) and I don’t hear any “strange” clicks from the compressor area.

  So, rather than just throwing some spaghetti (or otherwise) against this and seeing what will stick, I decided to do what my wife of 37 years contend I never do…

  Ask for help…

  Thank you, Gene!

  Duane

• Gene // Sep 19, 2017 at 1:44 pm

  Hello, Duane.

  In order to provide most accurate advice, I need the complete model number of the refrigerator.

  Best regards, Gene.

• Duane K. Siebert // Sep 21, 2017 at 8:34 am

  Thank you, Gene, for the most rapid reply (and I apologize for wasting your time)

  Duh! FRS26HF6BB0

  Here’s a little more input.

  The ice is “coming and going” off of the evaporator coils (so I presume that means the defrost element is working).

  The temperature in the freezer (it is completely empty) ranges from 25F to around 40F.

  Thank you,

  Duane

• Gene // Sep 21, 2017 at 3:59 pm

  Hello, Duane.

  Thank you for your prompt response.

  Pull the refrigerator out of the wall. Remove the bottom rear cover. Clean the condenser (#1 on the diagram) using a vacuum and condenser cleaning brush. Be sure the condenser fan motor (#60 on the diagram) is working properly.
  Put the cover back in place and give it a try.
  If it would not help, there is a problem with the cooling system. Probably it’s low on Freon. In such situation, you would need to hire a pro to fix it.

  Good luck.

  Gene.

• Duane K. Siebert // Sep 21, 2017 at 4:43 pm

  Hello, Gene.

  Thank you for the prompt reply.

  Unfortunately, I had already done that and was surprised to find everything quite clean (though I went ahead and vacuumed/blew off what little was there).

  I was hoping it wasn’t going to be low freon…

  Thank you,

  Duane

• David d // Sep 21, 2017 at 6:28 pm

  Hi gene. I am having problems with my double oven not turning on. We used it and than during the cooling done time it shut off and won’t even turn on the led screen. It is kitchenaid kebs209bss00. If you have any ideas that would be great

• Gene // Sep 25, 2017 at 6:00 pm

  Hello, David.

  Thank you for your question and sorry for the delay.

  The user interface board (display) in your oven is protected from overheating by the thermal fuse inside the control panel (#7 on the diagram).

  Turn of the power to the oven. Open the control panel and check the thermal fuse for continuity using a multimeter. If the thermal fuse is open, it would need to be replaced.

  The part number for the thermal fuse is wpw10545291

  Good luck.
  Gene.

• Jason // Sep 21, 2017 at 8:12 pm

  Hello. I have a Frigidaire gas stove. Model number FFGF3053LSK. Was cooking and got F10 code. Tired to reset it by unplugging it and let it cool down. I turned it back on and it did not heat up all the way and the screen started glitching and flashing and turned off. Any help? Thank you.

• Gene // Sep 25, 2017 at 5:39 pm

  Hello, Jason.

  Thank you for your question and sorry for the delay.

  Looks like the EOC has failed. It would need to be replaced. You may want to order the overlay at the same time because it’s not easy to use the old one for the new installation.

  The part number for the EOC is 316557101
  

  The part number for the overlay is 316419141
  

• Don Etgen // Sep 22, 2017 at 6:05 pm

  Frigidaire Refrigerator FFHS2322MB1 Won’t start. 0 on the freezer temp setting display F on the fridge side temp setting display

• Gene // Sep 24, 2017 at 12:11 am

  Hello, Don.

  Does it make any noise or it’s completely silent?

• Jess H // Sep 23, 2017 at 8:09 pm

  Hi Gene,

  I have seen that you are always knowledgeable and helpful on the appliance repair forum and I was hoping you may be able to shed some insight into our situation. Hubby & I own a 1999 model 650 SubZero refrigerator with the freezer drawer on the bottom and the panel grill at the top above the fridge. We recently had a factory certified tech come out and he discovered the exterior of the unit had a good amount of mold on all the three back surfaces, condensation all over the bottom of the unit as well. He told us this is an interior insulation issue and it cannot be repaired. We are wondering if the unit is otherwise working well, do we clean it regularly and wait it out? Is there extra insulation we can add around the unit, or anything else that we can do to combat the issue, or is it something that will continue to deteriorate and we should replace it right away? He was going to preform a repair if we agree to it, and said it would run another 20 years outside of the condensation/sweating, but we don’t want to sink any money into the unit if it’s a bad investment. What do you think about this situation? Is there anything we can do to combat or deal with the sweating? Thank you for your time.

• Gene // Sep 23, 2017 at 11:59 pm

  Hello, Less.

  Unfortunately, I’m afraid there nothing could be done to fix insulation problem. Ask him what is his prediction for the future of the unit.

  Good luck.

  Gene.

• Jess H // Sep 26, 2017 at 10:36 am

  Thanks Gene. He said that it would be completely new inside and run for another 20 + years, but that the insulation and mold issue would continue without any resolution. It seems perhaps it may be best to look for a new unit instead, unfortunately. We have really loved this fridge, sad to see it go! Thanks so much for your reply.

• Chris mazaika // Sep 26, 2017 at 7:02 pm

  Good evening Gene!
  I am having trouble with my stove, it is a Jenn air jes9750cab01. At first one stove burner wouldn’t work all the time, hit or miss. Now they all won’t heat up at all. There is an audible click when you turn the knob but it doesn’t quite sound the way it used to. I have a hard time believing the knob controls all went bad in this short amount of time. The stove is only 2.5 yrs old.
  Please help!
  I am knowledgeable of electrical systems and can absolutely use a meter….I just don’t know where to start.

• Gene // Sep 27, 2017 at 9:16 pm

  Hello, Chris.

  Thank you for your question.

  You may want to start the troubleshooting from verifying proper power to the stove. Locate the stove circuit breaker in the breaker box and flip it off and on. Check the stove again.

  Pull out the right side cartridge. Using a voltmeter measure the voltage between the ground terminal (round one) and each other terminal (from left to right) while the both switches are on.

  Do the same with the left side cartridge.

  Send me results, please.

  Gene.

• Karan Singh // Sep 28, 2017 at 9:25 am

  I have a Frigidaire Gas Range, I keep getting error code F10. I try unplug the unit and after a while re-plug still gets the error code.
  If I need to replace a part What will the part number be?
  Thank You
  Karan

• Gene // Sep 28, 2017 at 5:19 pm

  Hello, Karan.

  Thank you for your question.

  In order to fix the problem with your range, the EOC would need to be replaced. You may want to order the new overlay at the same time. Uou can order both parts by clicking on the part numbers below.

  The part number for the EOC is 316455410

  

  The part number for the overlay is 316220701

  

  Good luck.

  Gene.

• Karan Singh // Sep 28, 2017 at 9:37 am

  Sorry ! I forget to include the Model Number: FGF337GCA

• Gene // Sep 28, 2017 at 4:50 pm

  Hello, Karan.

  Thank you for your question.

  In order to fix the problem with your range, the EOC would need to be replaced. You may want to order the new overlay at the same time. Uou can order both parts by clicking on the part numbers below.

  The part number for the EOC is 316455410

  

  The part number for the overlay is 316220701

  

  Good luck.

  Gene.

• Chris mazaika // Sep 29, 2017 at 4:06 pm

  Thanks Gene!
  The power to outlet (supply) is 238v as our home is supplied 204v.
  At each cartrige outlet (ground to line) I am getting varying voltages between 14v and 34v in all positions of he control knob, when turned to off it shows 0 volts.
  The tstat in the knob clicks but the relays never do, my assumption is the relays are bad as I have 240 between the line to element on the knob wires and 120 to ground on each as well. I get voltage coming in and going out of the knobs but it never gets to the element.
  Thanks

• Gene // Oct 3, 2017 at 8:56 pm

  Hello, Chris.

  Sorry for the delay.

  No doubt the relays would need to be replaced.

  The relay part number is wp8566493

  You can order it by clicking on the part number.

  Good luck.

  Gene.

• LB // Oct 2, 2017 at 8:36 pm

  Hi Gene,
  I have an old GE (TBH14SASGLAD) that I’ve been using as an outdoor refrigerator for the last 18+ years. It has been exposed to the cold, heat and rain refuses to give up. Other than some water leaking from the roof of the inside of the refrigerator (housing control?), mostly in hot weather, it’s been trouble free, knock on wood. I want to prepare for the eventuality of having to replace it, however. I looked at outdoor refrigerators and they are too small or too expensive and have no freezer. I’m considering taking the risk of putting another non-outdoor unit out there but from what I’ve been reading, the newer, energy efficient models just aren’t equipped to handle what I’m doing to this old workhorse. I came across your website and thought I’d ask an experienced repair guy who’s probably seen it all and might steer me in the sanest direction. Does anything out there stand a chance in hell, or at least my backyard, to do what my old GE has been doing?

• Gene // Oct 3, 2017 at 9:01 pm

  Hello, Sam.

  I don’t believe you could find anything even close to this old time quality product. Nobody makes it anymore!

• Jay // Oct 3, 2017 at 7:46 am

  My frigidaire dryer won’t heat. I found the sensor on the blower was bad, it has been replaced, and there is power going to it. The hi temp sensor and heating element have continuity. When checking the power to the heating element I have nothing. All the wiring looks good. Any thoughts?

• Gene // Oct 3, 2017 at 9:03 pm

  Hello, Jay.

  Thank you for your question.

  In order to provide most accurate advice, I need the complete model number of the dryer.

  Gene.

• Vanessa // Oct 3, 2017 at 9:51 am

  Hi I can’t use my oven the code I get is f30eith a beeping sound
  Model FGF337GCF

• Gene // Oct 3, 2017 at 9:23 pm

  Hello, Vanessa.

  Thank you for your question.

  Pull the range out of the wall and unplug the power cord.
  Remove the rear panel. Disconnect the plug from the EOC (control board) and check for continuity between the two left wires (violet). The normal reading should be around 1100 Ohms. If the reading is incorrect, go down to the temperature probe quick disconnect plug. Disconnect it and do the same continuity test.
  If the reading is still incorrect, the temperature probe would need to be replaced.

  The part number for the temperature probe is 316233903

  

  If the temperature probe resistance is correct, the EOC would need to replaced. In such situation, you may want to order the new overlay too.

  The part number for the EOC is 316455410

  

  The part number for the overlay is 316220701

  

  You can order any part by clicking on the part number.

  Good luck.

  Gene.

• Chris D // Oct 4, 2017 at 5:16 am

  Hi Gene,
  I have a 2011 Frigidaire model # FRT21IL6JW5. The freezer is only 34 degrees and the fridge is only 45 degrees. I did the obvious cleaning. I have replaced the defrost timer, the compressor run capacitor and the defrost thermostat…no change…please advise
  Thank you

• Gene // Oct 4, 2017 at 4:19 pm

  Hello, Chris D.

  Thank you for your question.

  In order to provide most accurate advice, I need some more information.

  Does the compressor run?
  If it does, how it feels on touch?
  Does the fan inside the freezer run?
  Remove the rear panel in the freezer and check how is the evaporator coil covered with snow.

  I’m looking forward to hearing from you.

  Gene.

• Tonka // Oct 4, 2017 at 10:13 am

  I have a Whirlpool electric dryer Modwl # YWED4800BQ0.

  It has a 4 foot 4 prong electric cord.

  I want to replace that cord with a 4 prong 6 foot electric cord.

  I have checked out lots of videos online to learn how to do that.

  The videos make it seem quite straightforward: unplug dryer, remove metal plate, loosen restraint, unscrew four wires @ terminal block, remove old cord, install new cord, etc.

  I figured I could handle that no problem.

  Turns out there is a problem. After I removed the metal plate I was surprised that the terminal block was not where it appears in the videos.

  I am able to see the four wires of the existing power cord. I traced the wires to see where they are attached and it is like nothing I have ever seen. I have not found a place where the four wires attach to the terminal block. Each of the four wires appear to pass through their own plastic piece (NOT a MARS connector) and travel to different places.

  I have reviewed the owner’s manual and canvassed the Whirlpool website for help and found nothing to help me.

  I would like to learn how to do this task.

  I have many disabilities and it is challenging for me to do many activities. I was so excited about doing this task because it seemed to be straightforward and the successful completion of this task would provide me with a sense of accomplishment.

  Any help you can provide would be appreciated.

  Thanks.

• Gene // Oct 9, 2017 at 8:10 pm

  Hello, Tonka.

  Sorry for the delay.

  By the model number you provided I found that this electric dryer made to use in Canada.

  Canada has very special electric codes which sometimes are very different with American. That means a regular 6-foot 4 prong power cord would not fit your dryer. You would need to order a power cord with part# W11095079. It can be ordered only in Canada.

  Good luck.

  Gene.

• Chris D // Oct 5, 2017 at 9:59 am

  The compressor runs.
  It is quite warm. Not hot.
  The freezer fan does run.
  The lowest portion of the evaporator coil does have ice buildup on it.
  The defrost heat element has continuity of 36.

  Thank you

• Gene // Oct 9, 2017 at 8:01 pm

  Hello, Chris D.

  Sorry for the delay.

  Very likely there is a problem with the sealed system. It could be low on Freon or the compressor is malfunctioning. You would need to hire a licensed refrigerator tech to diagnose and fix it.

  Good luck.

  Gene.

• Jennifer // Oct 7, 2017 at 8:13 am

  I have a whirlpool LEL8858EQ1 and it started making a squealing noise like the belt was going bad but checked the belt and it looks fine. Now it will run for about 20 mins then make a loud scrubbing noise then about 2 mins later shut itself off and I can leave it off for about and hour and it will start again but will run again same pattern

• Gene // Oct 9, 2017 at 10:56 pm

  Hello, Jennifer.

  Sounds like the motor has gone bad. This part is very expensive. You can order it from AppliancePartsPros.com for $205.81.
  If you will decide to invest money in such old dryer, I would recommend replacing the drum support rollers and the idler pulley the same time.

  The part number for the motor is wpw10396039

  

  The part number for the drum support roller kit is 349241t

  

  The part number for the idler pulley is wp691366

  

  Gene.

• Stephen // Oct 11, 2017 at 9:58 am

  Good morning,

  I have a LG DLGY1702V gas dryer that will not spin at all. I have checked the belt and it seems fine. The whole panel appears to work fine (power and buttons work. But when I hit start, I hear a click in the PCB, but no spinning. I ordered the PCB, thinking that was the problem, but it seems to be wrong because the PCB is different and I can only power on the unit, no other buttons work. I am wondering if it is the motor? Or could it be something else? (I did place the old PCB back in, all buttons work now.)

• Gene // Oct 12, 2017 at 7:07 pm

  Hello, Stephen.

  Thank you for your question.

  What is the part number of the PCB you replaced?

  Gene.

• Stephen // Oct 12, 2017 at 7:11 pm

  Parts #: EBR76210912 or according every diagram I have seen A130. But once I put the new part in, the only button that worked was power. So I put the old one back in.

• Gene // Oct 12, 2017 at 10:39 pm

  This is the correct part number for the PCB.

  Unfortunately, I don’t have the Service manual for this dryer and I’m not able to provide good troubleshooting instructions. I found couple websites who offers to download such manuals but it’s not free.

• Stephen // Oct 12, 2017 at 11:18 pm

  Gene,

  If you want and you can help me out, I will download mine for you. I am at a lost and wife is about to kill me to get this fixed. I am so lost at what to do. I am about to just order the motor, but its is only 4 years old. I am so annoyed. I was going to start cheap to see what it might be like the thermistor or the thermostat. But don’t believe it to be them. I have done the electrical test and it says to replace the control panel, which is the board I did replace.

• Gene // Oct 13, 2017 at 3:10 pm

  Stephen,

  The part you replaced is the control board. The control panel part number is ebr80171201

  Click on the part number to order it and give it a try. If it would not fix it, you can return the part.

  Gene.

• Steve // Oct 13, 2017 at 9:22 pm

  I have a Kenmore front load washer model 11047791700, it is showing F35 code which is the water level switch. On the page that shows the switch people have commented it was easy to replace after watching the video, where’s the video they’re referring to? Thanks for your help, Steve

• Gene // Oct 14, 2017 at 8:17 pm

  Hello, Steve.

  Thank you for your question.

  Did you do the following tests prior to replacing the water level switch?
  Check if pressure hose is fixed correctly.
  Check if the airtrap is not blocked.
  Check if the hose is not blocked

  What is the part number for the water level switch you found?

  The correct part number for the water level switch is wpw10415587

  

  It also comes with the repair video.

  Gene.

• Tammy // Oct 14, 2017 at 6:07 pm

  Gene, I have a Maytag Double Oven Gas Range Model MGT8885XS02. Recently the readout has been scrolling a message “check knobs and if off press start”. I can not find any information about this in the manual. Has happened more than once. Any advice would be appreciated.

• Gene // Oct 14, 2017 at 8:34 pm

  Hello, Tammy.

  Thank you for your question.

  Any error code preprogrammed in the range electronic control options always consists of F(digit)E(digit). This is the only error code which could be shown on the display.

  In what mode did you run it?

  Unplug the range for 10-15 minutes. Plug it back and give it a try.

  Good luck.

  Gene.

• Tom // Oct 16, 2017 at 11:51 am

  So I’ve checked the probe on my oven after getting the f10 error code. it reads at 1084 ohms. I switched out the eoc, still the error code comes back. I just replaced the relay board thinking that this must be the only other option. Still get the error code. What else could it possibly be to make this thing work right. I have the electrolux ew3lgf65gsb. Please help before I take a sledgehammer to this thing.

• Gene // Oct 17, 2017 at 4:16 pm

  Hello, Tom.

  Thank you for your question.

  How and where did you check the temperature probe?

  What are the part numbers for the EOC and relay board you’ve tried to replace?

• dave // Oct 16, 2017 at 4:01 pm

  I have a Frigidaire Gallery model# LGEF3043KFA. It came up F10 error, we shut it down for about a half hour and tried to power it back up. It appears the broiler is sticking and overheating the oven. (That’s how it appears to me)

• Gene // Oct 17, 2017 at 4:39 pm

  Hello, Dave.

  Thank you for your question.

  Very likely the cause of the problem is a faulty broil relay on the EOC. The correction is to replace the EOC. You also may want to order the new overlay due to possible damage during reinstallation.

  The part number for the EOC is 5304510064

  The part number for the overlay is 316419336

  Both of these parts are on back order. You may want to speak with AppliancePartsPros.com customer service to find out the ETA.

  Good luck.

  Gene.

• Jeremy Conrad // Oct 20, 2017 at 4:33 pm

  I have a Frigidaire FEF366ESB and a while back it started tripping the breaker. I found something had fallen behind the stove and pushed the back plate against the left broiler element plug and was arcing. Fixed it and then a few days later it began with the f10 error code. Checked the temp sensor and had correct ohms, so I ordered and EOC and over lay but have continued using the stove top portion until it arrives. Twice now the burners (all 4) have stopped working. I took it apart and looked over it and did not find any problems that I could see, and did not see where they really ran through the EOC. They are working at the moment, but any suggestions on where to start tracking down the problem?

• Gene // Oct 21, 2017 at 10:04 pm

  Hello, Jeremy.

  Thank you for your question.

  The surface elements are absolutely separated from the EOC. I’ve checked the wiring diagram for this model and the only common thing for all surface burners which could be affected by this shortage is L2 line. You may want to check the red wire from the terminal block on the back of the range all the way to the switches.

  Do not forget to remove the power from the range prior to ant testings.

  Send me the results.

  Good luck.

  Gene.

• Jeff Brown // Oct 21, 2017 at 3:36 pm

  Hi Gene,

  The freezer on my Frigidaire FRS6LE4FW0 is not freezing very well. I see that there’s a 90% chance that I need a thermostat. I searched online for a video or schematics or something, no go. Any help is good help. Thanks.

  Jeff

• Gene // Oct 21, 2017 at 10:10 pm

  Hello, Jeff.

  Thank you for your question.

  What is the temperature inside the freezer?

  Does the fan inside the freezer work?

  Remove the rear panel inside the freezer and check how the evaporator coil on the back covered with snow.

  Send me the results, please.

  Gene.

• Warren // Oct 22, 2017 at 1:10 pm

  Hi Gene,
  I have a Kenmore elite model 790.98023802. Got an F10 error and while coming up to temp the broiler comes on by itself. So far I checked the temp sensors they were 1084 and 1088 ohms they were the same at the plug on the sensor and at the plug on the control board. Then I checked all 4 heating elements they ranges from 15 to 20 ohms I bought a new control board PN/ 316576300 and put it on. Unfortunately tried to heat the bottom stove to 350 and the upper broil element came on and stayed on. No F10 error this time. Not sure what to check next. Thank you.

• Gene // Oct 23, 2017 at 3:12 pm

  Hello, Warren.

  Thank you for your question.

  The problem with your range caused by a faulty upper oven broil relay. This relay is a part of the relay board. So the correction is to replace the relay board. Very likely the control board is not involved.

  The part number for the relay board is 316443927

  

  Good luck.

  Gene.

• Warren // Oct 25, 2017 at 5:17 pm

  Thank you Gene. I will order the part and report back. I forgot to mention the small top oven works fine, it’s just the bottom one giving me problems.

• brad // Oct 26, 2017 at 6:16 pm

  Good evening Gene,
  I have a 1 1/2 year old GE Profile gas range model PGS950SEF1SS.

  It threw an F2 code about a month ago, i reset the breaker and it never came back. Just yesterday though, an F76 code came up and began beeping too (and flashing I think). I reset the breaker (after waiting 10 minutes) and the unit now simply flashes the time. The keyboard is completely unresponsive. Today out of the blue, the thing started showing the code again and beeped. My son said he was able to clear the error code and beeping with the ‘Cancel/Off’ key, but within five seconds, the code and beeping came back. I turned off the breaker again and now just the time is flashing and keyboard is unresponsive. Would you know if this is the control board? Thanks in advance.

• Gene // Oct 26, 2017 at 8:58 pm

  Hello, Brad.

  Thank you for your question.

  The meaning for this failure code is:”Shortened key matrix”. Correction recommended by GE is to replace the control.

  The control part number is wb27x21183

  

  You can order the part by clicking on the image or part number.

  Good luck.
  Gene.

• Brad // Oct 27, 2017 at 4:15 am

  Thank you Gene,
  I see the touch screen or control board continually coming up on late model GE ranges. Is there some preventative measure I should be taking? As the ‘short’ didn’t cause a breaker trip and there’s probably no internal protecting fuse or breaker, I doubt it could be repaired?

• Gene // Oct 27, 2017 at 8:04 pm

  Brad,

  I believe this is a design flaw. I don’t think there is any way to prevent it. Try to talk to GE customer relations.

• melanie // Oct 30, 2017 at 7:52 am

  own Kenmore gas range . model 66575829001
  serial rk4311263.

  Fe error. oven turns on and then shuts off in 10 seconds. had repairman replace erc control panel, oven temp senor, and surge (at the bottom of stove). DID NOT WORK. still get code f2

• Gene // Nov 1, 2017 at 12:18 am

  Hello, Melanie.

  Thank you for your question.

  I do not know Fe failure code for this model. Failure code F2E0 as well as F2E1 point to membrane switch failure.

  The part number for the membrane switch is wp8272702

  

• Jeremy // Oct 31, 2017 at 4:13 pm

  I replaced the EOC and the oven was working fine, however the stove top was still hit and miss. The power went off in our neighborhood for about a minute and a half this morning and this evening the oven light, clock, and element/hot top lights were working, but the top elements nor the oven elements would come on. I’ve checked all of my wiring and nothing is burnt or loose. The only thing I can see out of the ordinary is one of the flat prongs on the plug in is burnt/distort on the very end of the plug end. NOW as I am typing this message my wife says it has all started working properly!!!!! Is my stove possessed!!!! What should I be looking for? Other than the EOC it appears to be a pretty simple system. Any ideas on what I am missing?

• Gene // Oct 31, 2017 at 11:50 pm

  Hello, Jeremy.

  I would suggest replacing the power cord and the wall outlet.

  Gene.

• Fred Bruno // Nov 3, 2017 at 6:32 pm

  Gene,

  A huge thank you for the indispensable information in this thread. I successfully repaired my mother in law’s Kenmore Series 80 gas dryer by following your troubleshooting instructions, which indicated a failed thermal fuse.

  Replacing the fuse and thermostat brought the appliance back to life.

  I could not have completed this repair without your assistance!

  Sincerely,
  Fred

• Tell // Nov 16, 2017 at 4:57 am

  My RTD needs to be replaced. Can you help me with locating it and how to safely replace it.

• Gene // Nov 19, 2017 at 12:15 pm

  Hello, Tell.

  I’ll be glad to help you but in order to provide most accurate advice, I need the complete model number of the unit. Also, I would like to know how did you diagnose the problem.

  Thank you.
  Gene.

• Shawn // Nov 17, 2017 at 10:37 am

  Hi Gene,
  I have a Frigidaire 30″ Slide In Electric Oven with Gas Cooktop from 2003 – Model # CGDS388AB1. Recently (in last week) my oven has both while in use and stone cold, will click and flash PF with the time flashing. I can clear and use the oven, but it will continue to periodically “short” and flash PF again. This morning, I discovered that while the oven will heat up, the broiler element won’t. I turned the oven off and in the next 15 minutes it flashed PF, reset itself, flashed PF, reset itself, then stayed black for a few minutes and then the time flashed again. I think its the Control Board, because the broiler element itself looks undamaged and fine. NOTE: 3 months ago we added an electrical switch to our kitchen island, which shares the same breaker with the oven. Only a laptop computer is usually plugged in. Our problems only began a week ago, so I don’t think that’s the issue.

  Really appreciate your insight!
  Thanks!

• Gene // Nov 19, 2017 at 12:13 pm

  Hello, Shawn.

  Thank you for your question.

  Looks like the EOC power supply which is integrated into the EOC has gone bad. The correction is to replace the EOC but, unfortunately, the part is no longer available. Sad news but probably it’s time for a new range.

  Gene.

• Bruce // Nov 18, 2017 at 10:05 am

  Hello Gene,

  First of all… it’s awesome that you have provided your website and knowledgeable information that you do.

  I have a very similar issue as the ones above. I have a frigidaire plgfz397gca control board that I just purchased new. (Also I realized when I ordered the board that I should have ordered the touchpad overlay… and still need to order that part).

  But after the install of the control board all that I am getting is a blinking clock and an error message of “PF”?

  I saw where PF means Power Failure… And I’ve check the voltage and it is correct.

  Whenever you may some time I could use some insight as to what try next.

  Thank you for your time and response.

  Warm regards,
  Bruce

• Gene // Nov 19, 2017 at 10:27 am

  Hello, Bruce.

  Thank you for your good words.

  I would need some more information from you.
  What was the original problem?
  How did you perform the troubleshooting?
  What is the part number of the EOC you installed?

  Thank you.
  Gene.

• John Miller // Nov 21, 2017 at 5:33 am

  Hi, Gene. I just saw an old post from you on AppliancePartsPros’ forum offering the service manual for an LG DLG0332W dryer. The link (http://136.166.4.200/contents/Laundry/DLG0332/DLG0332_Service_Manual.pdf) is dead. Can you point me to the right place to download the manual? Also, do you have a similar manual for an LG washer model WM0532HW? Many thanks.

• Gene // Nov 21, 2017 at 12:05 pm

  Hello, John.

  Unfortunately, LG closed all public websites with technical information for their appliances. Now such information is available only for their authorized service.

  Gene.

• Debra // Nov 25, 2017 at 5:34 pm

  Frigidaire electric oven, model LGEF3045KFG it is not reaching temperature. If it does, it can take a very long time, I have not received any error codes as I have seen in all of the posts. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

  Thank you

• Gene // Dec 2, 2017 at 9:15 pm

  Hello, Debra.

  Thank you for your question.

  Would the bake (bottom) heating element get red hot?

  If not, pull the range out of the wall and unplug it. Remove the rear cover and check the wires to the bake element. If any of them broke, fix it.

  Remove at least one wire from the heating element terminal and check the heating element for continuity. If it’s open or shorted, the bake element would need to be replaced.

  The part number for the bake element is 316505500

  

  Good luck.

  Gene.

• Jake // Nov 25, 2017 at 6:39 pm

  Gene I have a Maytag MFI2269VEM2 fridge. It is intermittently clicking the ice maker door but will not dispense on demand. The ice tray fills up to the top. Clicks the dispense door even tho button is not pressed. Would you suspect the door solenoid or the control board?
  Thanks

• Gene // Dec 2, 2017 at 9:04 pm

  Hello, Jake.

  Thank you for your question.

  More likely the culprit is the dispenser control board.

  The dispenser control board part number is w10740217

  

  Good luck.
  Gene.

• Patrick Bubnes // Nov 26, 2017 at 6:23 am

  My whirlpool gas dryer will not start. could it be the Door shutswitch …. lights come on when i push a cycle theni push start the sensor light comes on. i hear a click by the computor board any idea what could cause this could it be the door switch or computor board
  model number GGW9868KQ5

• Gene // Dec 2, 2017 at 8:52 pm

  Hello, Patrick.

  Thank you for your question.

  Your dryer has a belt switch which interrupts power to the motor if the belt was broken. So start the troubleshooting from verifying condition on the drive belt.

  The belt part number is 661570v

  

  Good luck.

  Gene.

• Jesus // Nov 27, 2017 at 12:51 am

  Hi Gene,

  I have a whirpool microave model number MH1150XMS4 that operate, but recently the clock began to beep and the buttons do not work on the panel, Can be the panel or the control board.
  Thnks

• Gene // Dec 2, 2017 at 8:43 pm

  Hello, Jesus.

  Thank you for your question.

  Unplug the microwave for 10 minutes. Plug it back and give it a try.

  If the problem still exists, the control panel would need to be replaced.

  The part number for the control panel is 8205031

  

  Good luck.

  Gene.

• Juan // Nov 28, 2017 at 10:56 pm

  Hello, Gene
  I have a Frigidaire LGGF3043KFJ and I’m getting an F10 error. First I unplugged the stove for 30 min and this time error F13 flashed for about 5 seconds then it went back to F10. Then I checked the temperature probe and am getting 1108 ohm at the probe and at the harness before the EOC. I’m pretty sure the issue is the EOC but just wanted to get a second opinion before I commit to a purchase.

• Gene // Dec 2, 2017 at 8:24 pm

  Hello, Juan.

  Thank you for your question.

  You are on the right track. The correction is replacing the EOC. You also may want to order the new overlay.

  The part number for the EOC is 316557217

  

  The part number for the overlay is 316419342

  

  Good luck.
  Gene.

• Ed // Nov 29, 2017 at 9:40 am

  Hi Gene. I live in the northeast. Roper washing machine model RTW4640YQ1. Just ran a cold wash (cold/cold). Placed my hand on the water entering the tub during fill cycle – hot water was mixing in with the cold water. A few questions: (1) Is this ‘normal’ that hot water is being introduced into the cold water cycle to increase the ‘cold’ water temperature? (2) If question 1 is YES, where would I find that information? (3) If question 1 is NO, then is the switch cycle – part AP6021119 – defective and in need of replacement? Thanks in advance Gene!

• Gene // Dec 2, 2017 at 8:14 pm

  Hello, Ed.

  Thank you for your question.

  (1) It is possible if the incoming water is too cold.

  (2) As it says in the Use and Care Guide, CONTROL PANEL & FEATURES chapter: ‘Even in a cold and cool water wash, some warm
  water may be added to the washer to maintain a minimum temperature.”

  You also may want to verify inlet hoses are connected correctly.

  Gene.

• Andrew // Nov 30, 2017 at 10:16 am

  I have a whirlpool gd5rhaxnb00 with a faulty ice maker. We replaced the ice maker and I wanted to see if it was working so I jumped it and saw a spark in the port and heard a pop. Is there anything that would’ve fried and is it easily fixable. Thank you in advance.

• Gene // Dec 2, 2017 at 7:15 pm

  Hello, Andrew.

  How did you jump it?

  Gene.

• Van // Dec 5, 2017 at 9:46 am

  GE gas range PGS920SEF4SS, oven and broiler stopped working at the same time. No glow from the igniter and I suspect the control board has gone out as this seems to be common on this range. Just wanted to run it by an expert before I purchase this part to replace.

  thank you in advance!

• Gene // Dec 5, 2017 at 11:38 pm

  Hello, Van.

  Thank you for your question.

  You may want to start the troubleshooting from checking both (bake and broil) gas valve solenoids for continuity.

  Remove the power from the range. Remove the oven door as described in the Owners manual (page 28).
  Remove the oven floor. Pull out two wires from one solenoid and check for continuity across two terminals. Put the wires back and repeat this procedure with the other solenoid.
  If any of them reads no continuity, the gas valve assembly would need to be replaced.

  The part number for the gas valve assembly is wb19k10079

  

  If both solenoids are good, the range control board would need to be replaced.

  The part number for the range control board is wb27x25332

  

  Good luck.

  Gene.

• Danny // Dec 14, 2017 at 4:09 pm

  I have a Samsung dryer model #DV40J3000EW/A2 won’t heat I replaced the heating element and the cooling light stays on with no heat

• Gene // Dec 14, 2017 at 5:36 pm

  Hello, Danny.

  Thank you for your question.

  Check the thermal fuse, which is attached to the fan (blower) housing, for continuity. If the thermal fuse is open, it would need to be replaced. Make sure the dryer vent is not clogged.

  The part number for the thermal fuse is dc47-00016a

  

  Good luck.

  Gene.

• Bart // Dec 15, 2017 at 7:39 pm

  I have a kitchen aid kgrs807sss00 oven. I have replaced the spark module and the front control unit(clock). The oven will not light, the element will glow hot. I can hear the gas valve click twice but do not hear the spark igniter clicking. I read about checking j4 etc but do not have a wiring diagram. Can I get the wiring diagram anywhere? Could the control board that I didn’t replace yet, the one I believe is #33 on the parts diagram?

• Gene // Dec 17, 2017 at 12:09 am

  Hello, Bart.

  Thank you for your question.

  Unplug the range and pull it out of the wall. Remove the control panel rear cover. Locate the spark module inside the control panel on the left-hand side. Plug in the range. Check for 120 VAC between the pins J1-4 and J1-6 while the control calls for Bake.

  If the correct voltage is present, the spark module would need to be replaced. If there is no 120 VAC present, the control board would need to be replaced.

  The part number for the spark module is wpw10331686

  

  The part number for the control board is wp9762774

  

  Good luck and Merry Christmas!

• Melissa // Dec 16, 2017 at 11:44 am

  Hi Gene…
  First of all thank you for doing this…I just panicked because my oven just decided to have a mind of it own…lol…thus I found your page 🙂 I am the proud owner of a Whirlpool Accubake Super Capacity 465 self cleaning oven..I tried to find the serial numbers but they must be on the backside of the oven and I am unable to pull it away from the wall at this time. Basically I turned it on 425 to bake and it acted like it preheated but then in the middle of baking I received the E3 F2 error I flipped the breaker and let it cool, turned the breaker on and had the PF on the display…I then hit cancel….waited and all of the sudden the broiler came on without being set. It will not turn off by hitting cancel…so I have turned off the breaker and unplugged her….any ideas? Or do I need to ask Santa for a new oven:(…Thanks again!

• Gene // Dec 16, 2017 at 11:09 pm

  Hello, Melissa.

  Thank you for your question.

  The information you provided is not enough for accurate advice. The model number would help. You can find it on the frame behind the lower drawer. Also, there is something wrong in the error code reading. The correct stylistic should be F followed by one digit, then E followed by one digit. Please verify the error code and send it back to me with the complete model number.

  Merry Christmass!

  Gene.

• John // Dec 17, 2017 at 5:10 pm

  Hi Gene,
  I have a Whirlpool Double oven RBD245PDQ4 it just stopped working. It is as if it has no power but the power is good. I checked the 220 power coming in and even pulled the front control face off and checked the terminals on right side of control board. It’s getting power but no display, interior lights, nothing. Is there a fuse in the oven that may have blown?

• Gene // Dec 20, 2017 at 9:26 pm

  Hello, John.

  Thank you for your question.

  The control panel thermal fuse is a part of the control board harness (black wire).

  Disconnect one end of the thermal fuse from the electronic control board at P7-1 and the other end from the wiring harness. Check the thermal fuse for continuity. If the fuse is open, it would need to be replaced.

  The part number for the thermal fuse is wp4456654.

  

  If the thermal fuse is fine, the control board itself failed. Unfortunately, this part is no longer available.

  Good luck.

  Gene.

• Katrina Forsey // Dec 18, 2017 at 8:06 am

  We ran all the possible tests on the water level switch, passed all…but still won’t stop filling since replacing the capacitor. Could the switch still be faulty?

• Gene // Dec 20, 2017 at 8:42 pm

  Hello, Katrina.

  What kind of appliance is it?

  What is the complete model number of the unit?

  Thank you.
  Gene.

• Todd // Dec 18, 2017 at 11:08 am

  WDP340PAFW0 Whirlpool Dishwasher- No Power – Control panel will not light up. Just stopped between cycles. Control board # W10831926 Rev a – f100 fuse T4a/250v tests good. I see no physical signs of caps or other parts bad on the board. No power seems to be getting to the board testing at the 4pin connector even with door switch taped to the on position ( door switch tests good).
  Is there another fuse or breaker somewhere that would do the above. Washer is 7 months old but my other half lost the receipt so no warranty service available.

• Gene // Dec 20, 2017 at 8:39 pm

  Hello, Todd.

  Thank you for your question.

  Remove the power to the dishwasher. Plug any small electric appliance (lamp, hair dryer etc) into the outlet to check if there is 120 VAC. If there is no proper voltage, check the appropriate circuit breaker.

  If there is power, check the power cord connection to the dishwasher.

  Good luck.

  Gene.

• Melinda // Dec 28, 2017 at 12:45 pm

  Gene,
  I have a GE Refrigerator Model CTX18CASJRAD.

  It’s had a problem staying cold enough so I had a repairman out who put coolant in it. It stayed cool a little while then mysteriously got warm. When I opened the door and closed it, the fridge started up and cooled off. The repairman came back and now says the problem is in the control panel at the back of the fridge. If it’s off and getting warm and you tap the knob or the panel in the back, the fridge will come on again. Is this common? I cannot find that control panel so I assume it’s just one little part, but which one?

• Gene // Dec 28, 2017 at 8:09 pm

  Hello, Melinda.

  Thank you for your question.

  There is only one control panel on top of the fresh food compartment. There is nothing at the back of the fridge.

  If the fridge would start after you tap on the temperature control knob, the temperature control failed and would need to be replaced.
  Unfortunately, this part has been discontinued by GE and is no longer available. Sad news but looks like it’s time for a new fridge.

  Honestly, the repairmen should return your money back.

• Doug // Dec 29, 2017 at 3:18 pm

  Hello Gene, I need to know the correct parts to order for a Frigidaire stove model #CGEF3959RFA. I was using the kettle didn’t notice the spout was pointed at the panel and now get the F11 error. I have unplugged the stove plugged it in again and still get the F11 error.

• Doug // Dec 29, 2017 at 3:25 pm

  Never mind the same question for the same model was already asked by Lyle. EOC 5304495521 and Overlay 316419828. Thanks

• Twila // Jan 2, 2018 at 1:01 pm

  Thanks to info you shared on the site, I easily diagnosed the squeaking issue, and had no issues removing and replacing the dryer bearing and glides on a GE dryer DRSR483ED2WW. The only difficulty is in properly replacing the front panel. I cannot get it to line up correctly, but it’s off by only just a bit. There’s a bottom tab that inserts, but then the metal tab halfway up the panel and another tab a little further up just barely miss lining up, which makes the top screws miss the holes by a millimeter. I’m lifting the drum slightly and it seems to align ok, but just cannot get the front panel flush. Do you have any tips or a clear video or photo to help me resolve this?

• Twila // Jan 2, 2018 at 2:55 pm

  Never mind, realized my error and no worries, slipped it right on. Thanks!

• Eric Johnson // Jan 6, 2018 at 4:02 pm

  The cooktop has stopped working on my Frigidaire FPES3085KFC, and the ESEC no longer displays anything. The oven works properly (thanks to your help three years ago!), and the Electronic Oven Control display doesn’t display an error code. The day before it stopped functioning, my young daughter reported that the burner controls were flashing “.8” but it was functioning normally by the time I saw it. Looking at the UIB (Part 316442062 / ESEC-20), it physically looks fine, with no apparent damage, as does the connection between the UIB and the EOC. I assume that I need a replacement UIB, but wonder if there is any other test that I can do to verify this is the correct part.

• Gene // Jan 6, 2018 at 6:08 pm

  Hello, Eric.

  Thank you for your question.

  You may want to check the wire harness between the UIB and the ESERC relay board. Then visually inspect the relay board, especially the low voltage transformer. Unfortunately, I would suspect the relay board first but Frigidaire did not mention any voltage check points for this part.

  The part number for the relay board is 316442119.

  

  To order the part just click on the part number or picture.

  If the new part would not fix the problem, you can easily return it.

  Good luck.

• Barry Adelman // Feb 1, 2018 at 2:46 pm

  Hi Gene….
  Here is a strange one… My whirlpool washer ghw9250MT2 gives me hot and cold but the unable to do warm…..On warm it just does hot.
  Any suggestions?
  thank you

• Gene // Feb 7, 2018 at 5:18 pm

  Hi, Barry.

  Thank you for your question.

  Unplug the washer. Access the main control board (under the top panel, behind the control panel). At the main control board, disconnect the TH2 connector. Using a multimeter, check for approximately 10,000 ohms resistance across the two wires in the connector. If the reading is correct, the control board would need to be replaced.

  The part number for the main control board is wp8182664

  You can order the part by clicking on the part number or the image.

  

• Dusty // Feb 25, 2018 at 1:59 pm

  Hi Gene, I have a whirlpool ES5PHAXSL00 fridge that will cut off and get warm (freezer and fridge) I can bump the control board on the top right where the temperature controls are and it will cut back on for a day or so then I have to bump it again. Do I need to replace the control board or something else?

• Gene // Feb 25, 2018 at 2:16 pm

  Hello, Dusty.

  Thank you for your question.

  There are no electronic temperature controls in your refrigerator. The temperature controls by a regular classic thermostat which would need to be replaced.

  The part number for the thermostat is w11088945

  You can order the part by clicking on the part number or on the picture below.

  

• Greg n Theresa // Apr 22, 2018 at 6:22 pm

  Hi Gene, We have had a KitchenAid clothes washer KAWS700GQ0 for nearly 20 years and have been able to do repairs with the help of your site and Youtube. Now we have a stumper. We are guessing it is the transmission, major sign was the caked on oil/grease around the seam. The symptom is, when in spin cycle with load the barrel will not spin without helping it get started but spins fine with no load. The coupler seems fine as does the clutch. Are we sunk and have to buy a new transmission or is there something else we can do? ie: replace the missing fluid. Thanks much,

• Gene // Apr 25, 2018 at 6:19 pm

  Hello Greg and Teresa.

  Thank you for your question.

  You may want to check the washer drive block (#12 on the diagram).

  If it’s stripped or damaged any other way, it would need to be replaced.

  The part number for the drive block is AP6008836 and you can order it by clicking on the part number.

  

  Otherwise, the transmission is the culprit.

  The part number for the transmission (gear case) is AP3096209

  

  Good luck.
  Gene.

• Christine // Apr 25, 2018 at 10:25 am

  Hello Gene,
  I’ve been really impressed reading the comments on this site. Thank you! We have GE Over JGB920TEF2WW and we are getting the F7 code. From your previous comments, it sounds like we need a control panel and before ordering, I want to make sure this is the correct part. On the appliance site, it’s called:
  Control Board
  by GE
  Part Number AP3792684
  MFG Part Number WB27K10144
  $236
  I want to make sure I can order this with confidence before spending the money. They are out of stock and when I went to their chat room, they said they can order the part. Also, I have a mechanical engineer friend who can install it for me. Yay!
  Thanks! Christine

• Gene // Apr 25, 2018 at 4:56 pm

  Hello, Christine.

  Thank you for your question.

  Control board and control panel are absolutely different parts. Very likely in order to fix the problem you mentioned, a control panel would need to be replaced.

  The part number for the glass control panel is AP3207425

  This part is expensive. You can order it from AppliancePartsPros.com for $375.99 by clicking on the part number. If the new part would not fix the problem you can easy return if for the full refund.

  The part is on back order now and would take 7 to 10 business days to get it.

• Ashley Elkington // May 12, 2018 at 11:58 am

  Hi Gene,
  I have a Frigidaire Gallery Series Range, Model number GLEFM97FPBF. The oven started flashing the F10 error code while baking. I have checked the temperature sensor and it reads at 1179 ohms. Would the EOC be the culprit? What part number would I need to order?
  Thank you!

• Gene // Jun 3, 2018 at 7:40 pm

  Hello, Ashley.
  I did research for your range and got a sad news. The cuprit is EOC but unfortunately this part has been discontinued and is no longer available. Looks like it’s time for a new range.
  Good luck.
  Just in case it you would like to run your own part search, the part number for the EOC is 316418704.

• Harold Kornylak // May 17, 2018 at 1:30 pm

  Maytag LDE-9806ACE. Press start button, motor hums as long as pressed, then nothing. Open door, then no hum when pressed, light comes on. Motor spins freely by hand without noise. What next?

• Gene // Jun 3, 2018 at 7:27 pm

  Hello, Harold.
  Thank you for your question. Hoping it’s not too late.

  Most likley the cause ot the problem is a bad drive motor. You can easy verify it. Set the timer on and open the door. Holding the door switch in manualy spin the drum. If the motor would kick in, it would need to be replaced.

  The drive motor part number is w10410999
  You can order it by clikcing on the part number.

  

• Kelly // May 29, 2018 at 4:46 pm

  Hello,

  I have a CEW30DF6GSD. I was getting an F10 error sometimes while attempting to bake. I checked the RTD sensor and its wiring harness and both checked out. I also followed the troubleshooting advice published by Electrolux and unplugged connector P1 from the power supply board. In this state, the oven did not heat, so I followed the troubleshooting advice and replaced the EOC. A couple of hours later, while using the oven, I noticed that the broil element was on. Sure enough, an F10 alarm started a few minutes later. I opened up the oven again and this time looked at the relay board. There are two burnt connectors!!! One is for the BROIL connection and the other is L2 IN2/L2 OUT2. I definitely have to replace the replay board now and a few of the connectors as well as they are completely burned. Are you able to offer advice as to replacing only the damaged connectors? Otherwise, it looks as though I may be forced to buy an entire wiring harness for about $300 and a 10-15 day wait. Thanks!

• Gene // Jun 3, 2018 at 7:14 pm

  Hello, Kelly.
  Thank you for your question.
  Replacing a burned connector (wire terminal) is very simple. You would need a wire stripper and a crimper. Both of them you can find in a local hardware store.
  Cut off the burned connector. Using a wire stripper, strip about half inch of the wire. Then crimp on a quick dosconnect terminal.
  You can order pack of 20 quick disconnect terminals by clicking on the link.

  In case if you still looking for a new relay board, the part number is 316443920
  You can order it by clicking on the part number.

  

• Fays // Jun 10, 2018 at 6:25 pm

  My Frigidaire gas stove has a err code 11
  Mod#glgf389gbf. We shut off the juice and then waited 10 min. and turn it back on and the err11came back on.

• Gene // Jun 12, 2018 at 12:30 am

  Hello, Fays.
  Thank you for your question.
  In such situation, the EOC would need to be replaced. You also may want to order a new clock overlay because it’s self-adhesive and the old part would not stick properly to the new EOC.

  The part number for the EOC is 316462806
  You can order it by clicking on the part number.

  

  The part number for the clock overlay is 316419700

  

  Good luck.

• Eustace // Jun 12, 2018 at 7:50 pm

  refrigerator works,but temp display fluctuates in high 40’s and 50’s, and freezer from 10 to 20’s, but it still freezes. Ice output is slow though, like it hasn’t filled the bin after three weeks on. changed the motherboard, slight improvement but still high temp registering
  GE PSHS6TGXCDSS

• Gene // Jun 13, 2018 at 9:15 pm

  Hello, Eustace.

  Thank you for your question.

  There are three temperature sensors (thermistors) in your refrigerator. Two are in the refrigerator and one is in the freezer. Very likely some of them are malfunctioning. All of them are identical with the same part number and price. There are 2 options for you. The first option is to check everyone to find out exactly which of them is the culprit. The second option is to replace all 3 thermistors because they are inexpensive – $8.39 each.
  In order to test them: write down the temperatures shown on the display. Unplug the refrigerator and pull it out of the wall. Remove the cover from the main control board. Unplug the J1 plug from the main board. Measure and write down the resistance between the pins J1-5 and J1-1, J1-5 and J1-2, and J1-5 and J1-3. Send me the test results and the registered temperatures for refrigerator and freezer. I would get back to you with the diagnosis.
  If you would decide just to replce all 3 of them, the part number for the thermistor is wr55x10025
  You can order them by clicking on the part number.

  

• Nancy Scarfo // Jun 19, 2018 at 6:45 pm

  Hi Gene. I’m trying to buy a part that I found on your website. When I click on the part to put it in my cart it flips me to an appliance store which charges about $42 more than the price listed that I see on your site. Part number AP6005797. Can you tell me where you found this part for the amount you have listed as $158? Thank you so much for your time!

• Gene // Jun 19, 2018 at 7:06 pm

  Hello, Nancy.

  Thank you for your question.

  I need more information from you. Tell me please in what article and/or comment you found this part?

• Bill // Jun 24, 2018 at 3:51 pm

  Hi Gene,

  I have a Thermador

  Model PDR486GLZS/04
  Serial # 39310008092 200030
  FD No. 83100030

  When I turn on the main oven and set it at 450 Deg it will heat up to between 300 & 350 Deg and shut off. Then the blue lights next to Oven will blink 4 times followed by blue light next to Heating will blink 3 times. It will keep repeating this.

  I have in the past replace both the main board and the smaller board (part 00709786) and it fixed the problem in the past. Do you think the main board or smaller board has gone bad again? I replace the board in Feb 2017 so just over a year ago. I purchase the boards from AppliancePartsPros.

  Any suggestions in troubleshooting is greatly appreciated.

  Bill

• Gene // Jun 26, 2018 at 11:30 pm

  Hello, Bill.

  The error code you described is “43” what means “no cooling fans”. There are two of them in your range. Unfortunately, I could not find the correct part number but if you call AppliancePartsPros customer service, they would be able to find it for you.

  Good luck.

• Bill // Jun 27, 2018 at 4:14 pm

  Hi Gene,

  Thank you so much for your help. I called Appliance Parts Pros and the cooling fans have been discontinued. I took the range appart and removed the cooling fans. I took the fans appart and cleaned them the best I could to get rid of all the grease. I also found the 2 flag switches (one of which was bad) I cleaned them the best I could as I was informed by AppliancePartsPros that they are also discontinued. I took the flag switches appart and was able to repair the little spring inside that broke. Put it all back together and it WORKS.

  If anyone else is experiencing this issue with their Thermador Oven, and can’t get the replacement flag switch, please contact me and if you send me your flag switch, I can fix it. (billyjoho@gmail.com)

  Thank you again for you advice and help.

  Bill

• Gene // Jun 28, 2018 at 5:41 pm

  Thank you for your reply and good words!
  Good job, Bill!

• Ed // Jul 9, 2018 at 2:04 pm

  Gene,
  I have a whirlpool refrigerator model GD5YHAXNL00. The ice maker is not dispensing ice.
  Some background. I replaced the water filter about a week prior. It is still making ice, and dispensing water. We had a storm and the power was out for about 16 hours. I took the ice maker storage bin out because some ice melted and then when power came back the bottom area of the ice storage bin refrozen. I used hot water to free up the silver part that turns the dispenser and used paper towels to remove the water. I then took the piece out and cleaned the whole thing, ensuring that the part moves up and down with the spring in place. But still no ice dispensing. There is no noise coming from the dispenser. Any suggestions

• Gene // Jul 12, 2018 at 4:30 pm

  Hello, Ed.

  Thank you for your question.

  Do the following tests:
  Open the freezer door and press in the emitter flapper door to unblock the beam. Watch the status LED on the right side. If it’s On solid – nothing wrong with the optic boards. If it’s 1 pulses followed by 1 second delay repeatedly – the optic boards are faulty and would need to be replaced.

  The part number for the optic boards kit is w10757851

  

  You can order the part by clicking on the part number or picture.

  Good luck.

• Mel // Jul 9, 2018 at 9:22 pm

  Hi:
  I bought a Whirlpool WRF560SEYM05 fridge. I have a reverse osmosis line going in. I assume this is why I am getting very little ice. Is there a filter bypass plug available?

  Thanks!

• Gene // Jul 12, 2018 at 4:44 pm

  Hi, Mel.

  Thank you for your question.

  There is no bypass plug designed for your refrigerator.

  There are special water supply requirements for reverse osmosis line described in the installation instructions.
  A cold water supply with water pressure between 30 and 120 psi
  (207 and 827 kPa) is required to operate the water dispenser and
  ice maker. If you have questions about your water pressure, call
  a licensed, qualified plumber.
  Reverse Osmosis Water Supply
  IMPORTANT: The pressure of the water supply coming out
  of a reverse osmosis system going to the water inlet valve
  of the refrigerator needs to be between 30 and 120 psi
  (207 and 827 kPa).
  If a reverse osmosis water filtration system is connected to your
  cold water supply, the water pressure to the reverse osmosis
  system needs to be a minimum of 40 to 60 psi (276 to 414 kPa).
  If the water pressure to the reverse osmosis system is less than
  40 to 60 psi (276 to 414 kPa):
  â–  Check to see whether the sediment filter in the reverse
  osmosis system is blocked. Replace the filter if necessary.
  â–  Allow the storage tank on the reverse osmosis system to refill
  after heavy usage. The tank capacity could be too low to keep
  up with the requirements of the refrigerator.
  â–  If your refrigerator has a water filter, it may further reduce
  the water pressure when used in conjunction with a reverse
  osmosis system

• Kenneth Cox // Jul 11, 2018 at 4:11 pm

  Gene,
  I have a Kenmore Range that needs a hinge and I was told that the part number AP4365966 would work as a substitute for its hinges 318024747. The range part number is 790.46613501.

  Thanks!

• Gene // Jul 12, 2018 at 4:52 pm

  Hello, Kenneth.

  Thank you for your question.

  Both part numbers are correct. Unfortunately, the manufacturer has discontinued this part and it’s no longer available.

• Kiko Gonzales // Jul 11, 2018 at 8:49 pm

  A family friend has a Maytag Refrigerator (side x side) Model # MSD2574VEM10. When they go to dispense ice the flap will not open at all, so the ice just builds up in the chute. Any suggestions or parts that need to be replaced. Your Help would be gratefully appreciated. They have been dealing this problem for almost over 6 months now, and they are considering just buying a new refrigerator, and the 1 they have is less than 9 years old. Please help me help them.

  Thank you very much.

• Gene // Jul 12, 2018 at 5:01 pm

  Hello, Kiko.

  Thank you for your question.

  Even most of the parts for the ice dispenser front are still available, it’s impossible to diagnose the problem without disassembly the dispenser front and inspect all parts.

  If you not able to do it yourself, hire some professional to do it for you.

• Alison // Jul 24, 2018 at 8:32 am

  Hi Gene,

  I’m hoping you can help me with this. I have a Frigidaire self-cleaning oven, model FGF354BGWC. Every time I go to pre-heat it, after a few minutes it attempts to lock the oven with the code “dr” and the lock light flashing. I can also hear the lock motor running. The lock itself was removed before I came into possession of it so it doesn’t successfully lock. Because it can’t lock, sometimes it won’t even continue preheating and just keeps trying to lock it. My understanding is that the lock function is only for self cleaning and it should not be attempting to lock when simply pre-heating to cook at normal temps. I plan to replace the lock mechanism but I’m worried that with a functioning lock mechanism, I’ll essentially end up locked out of my oven while baking. Is my control panel faulty and needing to be replaced or is there an alternative way to reset it?

  Thanks,
  Alison

• Gene // Jul 28, 2018 at 11:29 pm

  Hello, Alison.
  Thank you for your question.
  The solution to fix this problem is to replace the EOC. Unfortunately, this part has been discontinued by the manufacturer and is no longer available.
  Sorry for such sad news.

• Brian // Aug 9, 2018 at 8:45 pm

  Hi Gene, thank you for your site. Have a GE range PGS920SEF2SS. It started beeping and displays the F76 code. Pulled breaker, now time flashes, keys are dead. It appears as you state a quality issue. Also I read above the code refers to the membrane keyboard and cleaning the ribbon cable may help. I checked GE parts (#WB27X20745) which appears to be the whole controller and is not available. Nor on appliance part pros (#AP5791104). Any idea of a source in Los Angeles area, I am in the SF Valley and can do repair myself. Also wonder if the keyboard can be cleaned if it’s a contact issue? Thanks

• Gene // Aug 10, 2018 at 10:33 pm

  Hello, Brian.

  Thank you for your question.

  The part number you found is correct and this part would need to be replaced to fix the problem with your range. It does not have a separate keypad. It integrated into the control board and there is no ribbon cable to clean.
  According to the information I received from GE, the part is still available but it is on back order and ETA is very questionable. Try to talk to Appliance Parts Pros customer service. They can get more information for you.

  Good luck.

• Shirley Clausen // Nov 18, 2018 at 4:38 pm

  I have a GE Double Wall Oven JKP45COD1CC and replaced motherboard but all the plugs are not correctly placed into the board. Do you know where I could find a diagram of where all the plugs should be plugged into the motherboard? (i.e. light button for upper oven lights bottom oven.) Thank you!

• Gene // Nov 29, 2018 at 3:08 pm

  Hello, Shirley.

  Thank you for your question.

  What is the part number of the board you are trying to replace?

• anthony // Nov 29, 2018 at 12:08 pm

  Gene,
  we just spoke. I have a kitchenaid double wall oven mode KEBC278KSS03. The upper oven will not heat. The lower oven works fine.
  I swapped the upper elements and thermal fuses to the lower oven and it worked fine. Can you help ?

• Gene // Nov 29, 2018 at 2:57 pm

  Hello, Anthony.

  Thank you for your question.

  Remove the power from the oven by turning off the oven circuit breakers. Open the control panel. Locate the Red wire at the control board (outcoming power line L2) and the pin 2 at the P18 connector (Orange wire). Using a multimeter, check for continuity across these two wires.
  If it reads no continuity, the upper oven shutdown thermal fuse is open and would need to be replaced. It has to be tested instrumentally.
  The part number for oven shutdown thermal fuse is wp9759242
  

  If there is nothing wrong with the thermal fuse, the next step is to verify incoming power. You would need to work with live wires. Be very careful to not electrocute yourself. If you are not sure how to do it right then better not to do it at all.
  Locate the Red wire at the terminal block. Check the voltage across this wire and the ground. The normal reading should be about 120 VAC. If the reading is good, the double line break relay on the control board fault. Sometimes such relay can be replaced separately, but you would need to search for replacement part yourself. Otherwise, the whole control board would need to be replaced. Unfortunately, this part has been discontinued and is no longer available. What means it is time for a new oven.

• David // Dec 1, 2018 at 9:49 am

  Hi Gene,

  We have a Frigidaire CPEF3081KFC which threw out an F10 code. I tested the probe which came out OK so I’m guessing the EOC needs to be replaced, what would be the part number for this EOC?

  Much appreciated

  David

• Gene // Dec 1, 2018 at 12:29 pm

  Hello, David.

  Thank you for your question.

  You are on the right track. The correction in such situation is to replace the EOC.

  The EOC part number is 316562014

  

  To order the part click on the part number or the picture.

  The part is on back order and you would need to contact AppliancePartsPros.com customer service to find the ETA.

  Good luck.
  Gene.

• Onelia // Jan 4, 2019 at 12:52 pm

  Hi gene I have a frigidaeir model glefz389hc-ss and is giving a error code f11 error and beeping even when is not in use I already disconnect the brake and turnit on again and continous the beeping and the flashing f11 code

• Gene // Jan 26, 2019 at 3:42 pm

  Hello, Onelia.

  Thank you for your question.

  The correction for this problem would be replacing the EOC.
  The EOC part number is 316462805

  

  Sorry for the delay and good luck.

• Tracy // Jan 6, 2019 at 10:44 pm

  HI. Gene. I have a Frigidaire Gallery Range model no. FED367CEB. It won’t self clean. It only beeps and reads “door,” whereas there is not an “F” error code, only the word “door.” Could you advise?

• Gene // Jan 26, 2019 at 4:00 pm

  Hello, Tracy.

  Thank you for your question.

  In order to provide most accurate advice, I would like you to provide some additional information.
  1. The model number you posted is incomplete. There suppose to be one more letter after “B”.
  2. Would it heat in Bake and/or Broil mode?
  3. Would the door lock in clean mode?

  Sorry for the delay.

• Tom // Jan 19, 2019 at 5:01 pm

  We have a Whirlpool RBS245PDT12 single oven. My wife performed the auto clean cycle and now the bake and broil elements will not warm up. All the controls come on like normal but no heat. What would be this problem? And can you help?

• Gene // Jan 27, 2019 at 3:41 pm

  Hello, Tom.

  Thank you for your question.
  The problem with your oven is one of the most common problems known with electric ovens made by Whirlpool. It caused by an open rear oven thermostat (#37 on the diagram) from unintended exposure to hot air. This part would need to be replaced. Prior to replacing the thermostat, you may like to check the following and adjust if needed:
  1. Check to see that the oven door closes completely so that hot air from the oven is not escaping from the door opening and pulled into the air vent.
  2. Check to see that the door does not open beyond a 90Ëš angle. (Worn hinges and receivers, bowed inner door liner) which can allow hot air to escape or be pulled into the air vent.
  3. Check for damage to the door gasket so that hot air from the oven is not escaping from around the door and pulled into the air vent.
  4. Check the oven venting (obstruction in the vent or smoke eliminator, crushed, separated vent, etc.).

  The oven thermostat (thermal fuse) part number is wp9759243

  

  Good luck.

• Bobby // Jan 24, 2019 at 12:24 pm

  Gene,
  I have Frigidaire Professional Series Double Wall Ovens, which I had professionally installed in November 2015. Model #FPET3077RFA. When I am using only one of them there is no problem. If I use both of them at the same time, after about 35 minutes, I get an F45 error code. Can you tell me why that is, what that means and what I need to do to fix it?

  Thanks and have a Great Day!
  Bobby

• Gene // Jan 28, 2019 at 4:32 pm

  Hello, Bobby.

  Thank you for your question.

  F45 error code means the cooling fan (#108 on the diagram) speed is too low.
  The first repair suggested by Frigidaire is replacing the cooling fan assembly.

  The cooling fan motor assembly part number is 807123001

  You can order the part by clicking on the part number above.

  Good luck.

• Berthier // Jan 26, 2019 at 7:02 pm

  my daughter has a frigidaire oven
  model: CPCS3085 LFB
  we had a code F10 on it I checked the RTD sensor and it is good it takes a very long time for the oven to reach the temperature we set it but it doesn’t seem to be the right temperature could it be the EOC board if so what is the part number for it and the part number for the overlay thanks.

• Gene // Jan 28, 2019 at 4:41 pm

  Hello, Berthier.

  Thank you for your question.

  The EOC is the culprit, no doubts about it. The EOC would need to be replaced.

  The EOC part number is 316560143

  

  You can order the part by clicking on the part number or picture.

  Good luck.

• Dan Keller // Jan 27, 2019 at 7:04 pm

  Hi Gene, we have GE Profile JSP46W0D2WW early 2000’s range. We are getting F7 code, beeping as well as oven light turning on by itself. Removed touchpad assembly & ribbon connection. Found black substance at ribbon at connection part of ribbon. Cleaned blk stuff & reassembled. Worked fine for 2 months, now F7 all the time and beeping. Do you think touchpad failed or could the control module be source of problem? Thank you for any help.

• Gene // Jan 28, 2019 at 5:23 pm

  Hello, Dan.

  Thank you for your question.

  Here is the situation. The cause of the problem is a faulty touchpad (membrane switch). There is also small possibilities for the malfunctioning control board. Both parts: membrane switch and control board are no longer available. But there is a light at the end of the tunnel…GE designed a new control panel assembly which should include both touchpad and control board. Unfortunately, I could not confirm it. So, you can:
  1. Order this assembly and check it out by yourself. If it’s not what you need and you order this kit from AppliancePartsPros.com, you can easily return it.
  2. Just replace the whole range.

  The control panel assembly kit part number is wb49x10163

  You can order it by clicking on the part number.

  Good luck.

• Tom // Jan 28, 2019 at 1:56 pm

  Thanks Gene,

  I will check these items and see if that will fix the problem.

• Evelyn Doyle // Feb 10, 2019 at 4:33 pm

  Dear Gene:

  We have gotten the F7 code on Model JGB920SEF2SS a few times and believe it or not it went away and the oven started to work again which we deserve as we have replaced many GE Profile items already. Unfortunately, we tried cleaning the oven today and before it finished we got the F7 code which tells me something happens possibly when the oven gets too hot as it would when cleaning takes place. I am hoping that the F7 goes away again as it did in the past. If this F7 shows up and then it goes away and the oven works okay what do you think causes it. It certainly seems like a manufacturer defect to me. We almost replaced something a few years ago but it started to work again without us doing anything. Any ideas? Thank you and have a great day.

• Gene // Feb 15, 2019 at 9:38 pm

  Hello, Evelyn.

  Thank you for your question.

  Turn off the circuit breaker for the range or just unplug it.
  Open the control panel. Unplug the control panel ribbon from the ERC (control board) at the ERC. If it is the type where there is not a connector just the insulation is removed, it can be cleaned with a pencil eraser. Do not use an ink eraser as it is too abrasive. Otherwise, you can use rubbing alcohol and a toothbrush for cleaning. Would not hurt to clean the connector on the board at the same time. Be gentle and do not reconnect till all the solvent evaporates.
  Check the tracks in the ribbon cable for hairline cracks. A magnifying glass helps here. If there are any cracks found, the trim and membrane assembly would need to be replaced.
  Reconnect everything and give it a try.
  If it would not help, the trim and membrane assembly would need to be replaced.

  The trim and membrane assembly part number is wb36k10588

  

  You can order the part by clicking on the part number or picture.

  Good luck.

• keith Price // Feb 16, 2019 at 8:56 am

  Good morning from Ca,

  Frigidaire # FGEW3045KFB pinging an f-10 code board and/or sensor? I’m a DIY kinda guy but don’t do resistance testing. Usually start with replacing parts using cost vs. benefit theory of repair. Thank you in advance. KP

• Gene // Feb 16, 2019 at 5:40 pm

  Hello, Keith.

  Thank you for your question.

  We can try to diagnose the problem without resistance testing.

  It could be two possible scenarios:
  1. The F10 error code shown during day time mode.
  In such situation most likely the EOC has failed.

  2. The F10 error code shown during the cooking mode.
  2a – the oven was really overheated
  The EOC has failed.
  2b – the oven has not been really overheated
  More possible the temperature sensor caused the failure.

  Because the price for the temperature sensor is relatively low (you can order it from AppliancePartsPros.com for $14.03), I would suggest replacing both parts in any case of a situation.

  The EOC part number is 316560156

  

  The temperature sensor part number is 5304504897

  

  You can order parts by clicking on the part number or picture.

  Good luck.

• Suzanne Weber // Mar 3, 2019 at 10:14 am

  Hi Gene
  I have a Frigidaire ES340 gas range model
  GLGFZ386FCD I’ve been getting F10 and F30 codes on my display. I’m not the handiest but I’m up to try to fix this if I can. Can you offer any suggestions??
  Thanks for your help .
  Suzanne Weber

• Gene // Mar 5, 2019 at 6:43 pm

  Hello, Suzanne.

  Thank you for your question.

  You may want to start the troubleshooting from testing the temperature probe resistance as described at the beginning of this article.
  If the reading is incorrect, the temperature probe would need to be replaced. Otherwise, the EOC is the culprit.
  It’s not common but sometimes both parts would need to be replaced.

  The part number for the temperature probe is 316490003

  

  The part number for the EOC is 316557206

  

  You can order any part by clicking on the part number or picture.

  Good luck.

• Mark // Jun 20, 2019 at 7:55 pm

  Regarding GE Adora side by side ref DSHS6VGBBCSS
  The temperatures for freezer and fridge are displaying incorrect(very high values from what the thermometers on the inside tells me). i got 4 new Thermisters(WR55X10025). but still same high readings on the display. and big delay to register actual temp
  with set point at 8F Freezer and 37F fridge
  Values i got:
  Ref On Time ,FreezerDsp, FridgeDsp, ActualFreezerTemp,Actual FridgeTemp
  00M 81F 88F, 83F, x
  15M 81F 88F, 75F,x
  30M 78F 87F, 62F,x
  45M 76F 86F, 51F,x
  60M 73F 85F, 41F,x
  75M 69F 83F, 32F,x
  90M 66F 81F, 28F,x
  105M 62F 79F, 25F,x
  120M 62F 79F, 22F,x
  135M 57F 77F, 16F,x
  150M 53F 74F, 13F,x
  165M 49F 72F, 11F,x
  180M 45F 69F, 9F,x
  195M 41F 67F, x 37F
  210M 38F 65F, x 42F
  225M 34F 63F, x 35F
  240M 33F 61F, 16F x
  255M 30F 59F, x 36F
  270M 28F 57F, 9F x
  285M 26F 56F, x 32F
  300M 24F 54F, x 32F
  —-
  600M 08F 32F, 8F, 32F

• Gene // Jun 22, 2019 at 8:14 pm

  Hello, Mark.

  Thank you for your question.

  Very likely the problem is a faulty main control board which located on the back of the refrigerator. The part is expensive, but if you would order it from AppliancePartsPros.com and it would not fix the problem, they accept returns within 365 days.

  The main control board part number is wr55x11080

  

  You can order the part by clicking on the part number or the picture.

  Good luck.

• Ruby // Aug 11, 2019 at 4:30 pm

  Hello Gene,
  I have a Frigidaire gas range model # FGGF3058RFA which a few months ago showed an F10 error code. That prevented the oven and other functions from working but it was resolved by disconnecting the power for a few minutes. Now again, the oven refuses to light and some numbers on the keypad are unresponsive. I suspect I’ll have to replace the EOC as well as the overlay? My question is; Would it be really worthwhile replacing this particular part on this model of gas ranges? Although my range is relatively new (5 years) the same part has broken down twice, and I’ve read that this is a major flaw with this brand and model. I would not like to invest repeatedly on a cheap range that would break down over and over again. Your advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank you Sir.

• Gene // Aug 13, 2019 at 7:08 pm

  Hello, Ruby.

  Thank you for your question.

  Looks like you are on the right track with the diagnosis and a new EOC would fix this problem.
  Worth your range repair or not? It’s hard to say unambiguously.
  5 years is not too long for a gas range. Today you can buy exactly the same model for about $700+ while the cost of repair the old one is going to be a little over $200, including shipping. If you will order the new parts from AppliancePartsPros.com then you would have 365 days for a no-worries return.
  It’s going to be your decision.

  The part number for the EOC is 316560118

  

  The part number for the overlay is 316419828

  

  You can order parts by clicking on the part number or the picture.

  Good luck. Gene.

• Ron // Apr 12, 2020 at 12:58 am

  My Roper washer Model RTW4641BQ0 works fine except when the cycle completes I have to raise the lid within 2 minutes or it will start the cycle all over again. What could cause this?

• Gene // Apr 24, 2020 at 1:37 pm

  Hello, Ron.
  Sorry for the delay.
  It sounds like a faulty main control board. If the new part will not fix the problem and you would order it from AppliancePartsPros.com, then you can easily return it.
  The part number for the new main control board is rel=”nofollow”>w10636054 and can order it by clicking on the part number.
  

  Good luck and stay save.

• Adam // Apr 18, 2020 at 2:43 pm

  Gene, We need help. Our Kitchen Aid range just developed an issue. With the Covid/loss of work we just don’t have the funds for a repair man right now. Our range is Model # KESS907SSS04 The FRONT LEFT BURNER (apprx. 9 1/2 inch circle on glass top, with inner circle for smaller pans) won’t heat up all the time. The red light is flickering on the front 2 knobs. The RIGHT FRONT heating element was replaced a few months ago and heats up just fine—Works perfectly. The left front burner will go on sometimes and sometimes not, or it will go off when you try to cook, even though you have not turned it off. We are wondering if you think it is the LARGE HEATING ELEMENT ITSELF. I have never repaired anything like this but am willing to try as money is an issue. Do you think that even though the large element works sometimes or sometimes heats to the temp you want and sometimes not that that is the part I should replace? Is the LARGE heating element on your site for sale the one that has the inner circle for small pans? That is what we need. Do you have any advice on HOW to do this, or can you direct me to some online step by step instruction? We use this burner every day and I need to fix this issue. Thank you for any help.

• Gene // Apr 24, 2020 at 2:17 pm

  Hello, Adam.
  Very likely the cause of the problem is a faulty epic sensor in this heating element. It comes as a part of the heating element and can not be replaced separately. The new heating element comes with the installation instructions. Also, if you click on the part number below, you can order the part and watch the repair video for this part.
  The part number for the LF heating element is w10823692-ap6030922
  

  Good luck and stay save.

• PATEL // Feb 28, 2022 at 7:47 pm

  Will the part number :

  Made by:
  Whirlpool
  Part Number:
  AP6030922
  Fast shipping:
  Yes
  Returns:
  365 days to return

  Element body is approximately 10 inches in diameter.

  Is this part is valid OEM replacement for
  Jenn Air model: JES9900BAS, RIGHT FRONT BURNER, WHICH IS DUAL HEAT ELEMENT.

• Gene // Aug 31, 2022 at 5:29 pm

  No, this part is incorrect. This part number is for a single large element. The right front element is dual and the correct part number is AP6030944

• John Mullins // Jul 26, 2022 at 4:46 am

  Great article. This article is full of information & knowledge. Many thanks to the author for sharing this informative and helpful article with us.